What do you think of this car (truck)?

That's hard to say without seeing it in person. My logic goes like this: a 98 S10 is worth peanuts, maybe what, $2500? A GN drivetrain is worth maybe $3K or so? The labor to do the swap another $1000-1500 so I'd say it'd be hard to justify more than 6 or 7K for it. Sure it's a nice sleeper but it's still just a 98 S10 with a swap, the turbo setup is nice and obviously fast but if this were a 98 S10 with a fairly hot small block in it it'd be worth little more than a "normal" S10 so how much does the turbo buick drivetrain really add to it? However like anything else, it's worth what someone will pay for it.

As for the SyTy's I think they suffer from the same problem that any other modded vehicle does, they're modded for more performance, because the owner wants to drive it harder, they drive it harder, it breaks, therefore it's unreliable.

Very good point on value it is still an s-10. Kevin i forgot to tell you he has been trying to sell this since february so use that as leverage.
 
I'm not familiar with hybrids at all so if/when I go to check this truck out what/where should I look for?

Here's a few things I would check for

1. Is the speedometer hooked up and if so does it work? The speedos on S-10's since 1988 were electronically operated. Many times on S-10's when a V8 or other non stock engine has been swapped in, the speedo is not hooked back up.

2. Do the reverse lamps work? Again I've seen this on converted S-10's...the reverse lamps are not hooked up. That's what we mean by "thrown together"...some just drop in the engine/trans, hook up the exhaust, make sure there's a fuel and ignition source and that's it...to hell with all the sensors, gadgets and reverse lamp switches. <--shade tree mechanic logic

2.a Also make sure all the exterior lights and the wipers and hazzards work too.

3. Does the engine overheat? Especially on converted V8 S-10's sometimes the radiator isn't up graded and so you end up with an overheating engine. Also make sure they used electric fans and if possible make sure they're in the "puller" mode, or inside the engine compartment, as this works better than the pusher mode. (outside engine compartment)

4. Does the truck still have the stock 7.625 rear end? 98% of all S-10's used a 7.5 or a 7.625 rear, both are weak. Only the ZR2 S-10's and the '96 and up S-10's with the high output 4.3/5 speed combo go the 8.5 rear. The rear pumpkin on an S-10 looks just like the one on a TR/basic Regal RWD.

5. Does the a/c in the truck work? I see he says it has a/c but the big ? is did he hook the a/c up and does it blow cold?

6. Does the heater work? I only ask this because I saw once where a guy ripped off the heater box under the hood to make room for a 327 in his S-10...the whole squirrel cage and all was exposed....again a hack job...and he didn't have any heat.

7. Does the truck have posi traction? Trust me you will want/need it.

8. What kind of motor mounts were used to put the engine in? This is another one...I saw an S-10 once where they used the wrong motor mounts and instead tack welded the improper ones right to the frame! Now if that's not shade tree jimmy rigging at it's best....improper motor mounts are going to cause you some issues.

9. Was the floor board clearanced for the down pipe? An S-10 engine bay is a tight fit, and the few LC2'd swaps I've seen required the pass side floor board to be cleared for the downpipe....passengers feet might get warm, or you might hit the dp setting off the knock alarm.

These are a few I can think off the top of my head.
 
Here's a few things I would check for

1. Is the speedometer hooked up and if so does it work? The speedos on S-10's since 1988 were electronically operated. Many times on S-10's when a V8 or other non stock engine has been swapped in, the speedo is not hooked back up.

2. Do the reverse lamps work? Again I've seen this on converted S-10's...the reverse lamps are not hooked up. That's what we mean by "thrown together"...some just drop in the engine/trans, hook up the exhaust, make sure there's a fuel and ignition source and that's it...to hell with all the sensors, gadgets and reverse lamp switches. <--shade tree mechanic logic

2.a Also make sure all the exterior lights and the wipers and hazzards work too.

3. Does the engine overheat? Especially on converted V8 S-10's sometimes the radiator isn't up graded and so you end up with an overheating engine. Also make sure they used electric fans and if possible make sure they're in the "puller" mode, or inside the engine compartment, as this works better than the pusher mode. (outside engine compartment)

4. Does the truck still have the stock 7.625 rear end? 98% of all S-10's used a 7.5 or a 7.625 rear, both are weak. Only the ZR2 S-10's and the '96 and up S-10's with the high output 4.3/5 speed combo go the 8.5 rear. The rear pumpkin on an S-10 looks just like the one on a TR/basic Regal RWD.

5. Does the a/c in the truck work? I see he says it has a/c but the big ? is did he hook the a/c up and does it blow cold?

6. Does the heater work? I only ask this because I saw once where a guy ripped off the heater box under the hood to make room for a 327 in his S-10...the whole squirrel cage and all was exposed....again a hack job...and he didn't have any heat.

7. Does the truck have posi traction? Trust me you will want/need it.

8. What kind of motor mounts were used to put the engine in? This is another one...I saw an S-10 once where they used the wrong motor mounts and instead tack welded the improper ones right to the frame! Now if that's not shade tree jimmy rigging at it's best....improper motor mounts are going to cause you some issues.

9. Was the floor board clearanced for the down pipe? An S-10 engine bay is a tight fit, and the few LC2'd swaps I've seen required the pass side floor board to be cleared for the downpipe....passengers feet might get warm, or you might hit the dp setting off the knock alarm.

These are a few I can think off the top of my head.

Wow you pointed out some of the issues mine had but I fixed.
Reverse lights, speedo..

All the other stuff was done or is OK.
 
i think your nuts considering trading someone a black ls1 car for a pickup truck, lc2 or not....
 
Here's a few things I would check for

1. Is the speedometer hooked up and if so does it work? The speedos on S-10's since 1988 were electronically operated. Many times on S-10's when a V8 or other non stock engine has been swapped in, the speedo is not hooked back up.

2. Do the reverse lamps work? Again I've seen this on converted S-10's...the reverse lamps are not hooked up. That's what we mean by "thrown together"...some just drop in the engine/trans, hook up the exhaust, make sure there's a fuel and ignition source and that's it...to hell with all the sensors, gadgets and reverse lamp switches. <--shade tree mechanic logic

2.a Also make sure all the exterior lights and the wipers and hazzards work too.

3. Does the engine overheat? Especially on converted V8 S-10's sometimes the radiator isn't up graded and so you end up with an overheating engine. Also make sure they used electric fans and if possible make sure they're in the "puller" mode, or inside the engine compartment, as this works better than the pusher mode. (outside engine compartment)

4. Does the truck still have the stock 7.625 rear end? 98% of all S-10's used a 7.5 or a 7.625 rear, both are weak. Only the ZR2 S-10's and the '96 and up S-10's with the high output 4.3/5 speed combo go the 8.5 rear. The rear pumpkin on an S-10 looks just like the one on a TR/basic Regal RWD.

5. Does the a/c in the truck work? I see he says it has a/c but the big ? is did he hook the a/c up and does it blow cold?

6. Does the heater work? I only ask this because I saw once where a guy ripped off the heater box under the hood to make room for a 327 in his S-10...the whole squirrel cage and all was exposed....again a hack job...and he didn't have any heat.

7. Does the truck have posi traction? Trust me you will want/need it.

8. What kind of motor mounts were used to put the engine in? This is another one...I saw an S-10 once where they used the wrong motor mounts and instead tack welded the improper ones right to the frame! Now if that's not shade tree jimmy rigging at it's best....improper motor mounts are going to cause you some issues.

9. Was the floor board clearanced for the down pipe? An S-10 engine bay is a tight fit, and the few LC2'd swaps I've seen required the pass side floor board to be cleared for the downpipe....passengers feet might get warm, or you might hit the dp setting off the knock alarm.

These are a few I can think off the top of my head.

AWESOME! This is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for and I am literally going to print this out and bring it with me next week when/if I go to check the car out. Thanks again!
 
I really like this swap, but I would go for a Syclone for the same price ---

As I've already stated I love SyTys but I need to be able to drive whatever vehicle it is that I get every day...and EVERYONE tells me that once you touch a SyTy you cant depend on it at all. Yes, I could keep it stock, but I want something faster than a 14.1 sec Typhoon (haven't found any Sys for $10k).
 
i think your nuts considering trading someone a black ls1 car for a pickup truck, lc2 or not....

As much as I like my Fbody its just not my style. Its faster than my Buick was, it handles better, has a MUCH better stereo, and the a/c is unbelievable, but I just miss having the Regal. Yes, I know that an S10 is not a Regal, but I love the LC2 and the turbo GM engines...
 
Sad thing is, The motor thats in that truck prolly came from one of the 5 stolen TR's in Florida within the past 2 yrs
 
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