Valve Cover Oil Sealing

TTipe

Snake Skinner
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Two of us have been trying to complete our engines ( & car) builds but we have no solution to our valve cover leakage (it's bad). The oil leaks on to the cross over pipe & bell housing.We have GN1 (aluminum ) heads with Champion valve covers. We also have Cometic head gaskets. The oil drain back holes at the back of the Cometics restrict approximately half of the drain diameter within the head casting. Oil piles up on top of the head & the assumption is that a lot of the oil volume on top of the head drains back through the push rod holes (we both have RJC oil pans for the necessary oil volume). We have tried numerous different head gaskets & sealers with poor results. The sealing surfaces on both the cylinder heads & valve covers are flat with no obvious leak paths. A dry fit prior to installing the heads may not have resolved this issue (by trimming the gasket metal layer). The rivets were removed from the gaskets and the gaskets were sealed on both sides with hylomar. Attempting to cut the stainless support under the gasket bladder may have wrecked the gaskets. Does someone out there have a combination of gasket, sealer & procedure to stop the leakage? This may involve using a different engine oil. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I had the same issue. I am also rebuilding my engine at this time. I sprayed copper between each layer of the cometic head gasket and used a high temp rtv around the oil return. This almost eliminated the leakage but not completely. I talked to my builder and it looks like we can open up the oil return in the block to eliminate the misalignment with the oil return in the head. Oil should then flow free and not leak between the gasket and block.
 
The head gaskets are coated on both sides with hylomar (which will do a better job than rtv). I hope that opening the oil drain works out for you.
 
Oil leaks suck and can be difficult to pinpoint. Are you sure it's the vc''s?
What vc gaskets?
 
Yes,it is definitely the vc gaskets. Two of us are working on this on 2 cars with GN1's & Champ aluminum valve covers.
 
I have GN1 heads and Champion valve covers. The only valve cover gaskets that don’t leak are the Fel Pro blue rubber steal reinforced gaskets. I don’t have the part # right now, but they will fix the problem. Summit has them. The part number is in numerous posts if you do a search.
 
Fel-pro PermaDry VS50156T Valve Cover Gasket Set

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
Double check that the outer lip on the VC isn't hitting the header flange. Had that issue with stock VC's and aftermarket headers. Leaked like a sieve as the VC's couldn't seat properly.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Double check that the outer lip on the VC isn't hitting the header flange. Had that issue with stock VC's and aftermarket headers. Leaked like a sieve as the VC's couldn't seat properly.

RemoveBeforeFlight
Same thing here with TA header and valve cover with Champion ported iron head. TA puts nice big flange Champion cut the top , and away goes your clearance.
 
After years of finding VC leaks, I checked some aftermarket units with the bolts which were furnished were s little too long and would bottom out especially on alum heads.

I always use cork gaskets and they were not being tight enough because the bolt bottomed out?

Some of the bolts I trimmed 1/4" or so, and also used the appropriate small washer under the head of the bolt.

The smallest things, especially with aftermarket parts, are slightly different, and are a PIA!
 
These leak paths need to be verified with a pressure test. Often the leak isnt coming from where you think it is.
 
Champion heads and valve covers here. I might be crazy, but I simply do not allow oil leaks.

I always use 2 cork valve cover gaskets per valve cover. I lay some paper down on a work table, I use a cloth to dampen them and spread a very thin film of Gorilla Glue over the surface of one, and then stack the other up on top. Line it up nicely then add paper and a flat board on top and add a lot of weight. The Gorilla Glue will foam out and cause the gaskets to stick to the work surface if you don't use paper to isolate the foam. A day later, I remove the weight and tare the paper away. Then I trim away the oozed out foam with a razor and sometimes with a Dremel and drill out the bolt holes. This leaves me with a nice thick and stiff one piece cork gasket.

Then I spread a very thin layer of black RTV on the gaskets and place the valve covers on top and add weight again. I let this sit over night.

Then I add another thin layer of RTV to the underside of the gasket that is now RTV glued to the valve cover and then install the valve covers.

I use studs. NOT BOLTS. I tighten them nice and good. Every now and then I check them and I may give them another half turn if needed.

Yes, this might be overkill. But you could turn my engine upside down and my valve covers wont leak.
 
FYI, RJC Racing offers a 3/16" thick cork valve cover gasket. Much thicker than the standard offering

http://rjcracing.com/product/gaskets/

Valve Cover Gasket Set
We now make an amazing extra thick custom valve cover gasket. no one made a good one so we designed some and now make them in house. They are 3/16″ thick. Industrial grade cork. These are so good we made a seperate page just for them. look for them and more details on the main pull down page.

Valve Cover Gasket Set #RJC-VCg
Price; $29.00
 
FYI, RJC Racing offers a 3/16" thick cork valve cover gasket. Much thicker than the standard offering

http://rjcracing.com/product/gaskets/

Valve Cover Gasket Set
We now make an amazing extra thick custom valve cover gasket. no one made a good one so we designed some and now make them in house. They are 3/16″ thick. Industrial grade cork. These are so good we made a seperate page just for them. look for them and more details on the main pull down page.

Valve Cover Gasket Set #RJC-VCg
Price; $29.00

When I make up my valve cover gaskets I usually do a few extras to keep in the tool box. When I get down to the garage I need to measure them. Because I'm pretty damn sure I end up with a gasket at least a 1/4 inch thick or more. If not, I'll be calling RJC for some gaskets, because obviously this would be easier. Either way they don't leak.

I still recommend using studs instead of bolts, gluing the gasket on the valve cover with a thin film of RTV the night before, and also spreading a light film on the underside of the gasket a little while before torquing them down.

Also I forgot to mention I also have Cometic multi layer head gaskets under my Champion heads. I did not install my head gaskets. Cotton's Performance did. I don't know what they did, but they don't leak either. :)
 
I have these valve covers with allen bolts and I discovered, like Nick said the bolts were bottoming out. They were only a few thousandths too long but that's all it took. a few minutes on the grinder and dry as a bone.
https://gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=583&osCsid=1d0b0850a6269301fb2da4f5144a6dae

Some 1/4 inch stainless threaded rod cut to length and twist it in just hand tight. Boating supply stores usually have a good variety of stainless hardware. Some washers, maybe split lock washers, nuts. Done.

I try to use studs in every single aluminum hole whenever convienent or possible.
 
Thank you for all the great ideas. I am currently using the Fel Pro dry seals & so far they don't leak.
 
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