Up pipe build advice

#1
Well now that I got a shiny stainless dp and just my luck the flex joint in the up pipe sprung a leak. I cut it off and installed a piece of pipe in it's place but the geometry went all wacky after i welded it and it leaks like a siv. Time to build a matching up pipe but wanted some advice on size, best way to set up the 3 bolt flange and flare on the header.

Thanks

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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#2
Well now that I got a shiny stainless dp and just my luck the flex joint in the up pipe sprung a leak. I cut it off and installed a piece of pipe in it's place but the geometry went all wacky after i welded it and it leaks like a siv. Time to build a matching up pipe but wanted some advice on size, best way to set up the 3 bolt flange and flare on the header.

Thanks

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Can the section you added be cut off and replaced with a good quality bellow?
Key is: The turbo and header must be mounted in the correct position, and both sides of the up-pipe bolted on tight. Cut/measure/grind the pipe to ensure there is MINIMAL stress on the bellow, and tack it in place 3 sides, on both ends. Remove and finish welding it. This will have to be with a TIG, and back-purged since it will more than likely be SS.
 
#3
I could replace the pipe section with a bellow but would it be a benefit to get rid of the crinkle bend pipe and replace it with mandrel. Is there an issue with a solid piece pipe other than needing it to be perfect to mate? Will a larger diameter pipe (2.5) help or hurt spool? I think the turbo is where it should be I haven't repositioned it from where it was with the stock pipe intact. My biggest concern is getting the flare off the header right without causing the pipe to be to short. The idea was to use 2 90 degree bends and cut the ends to length, weld the triangle flange on and lastly take the pipe to a muffler shop to have the flare done.

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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#4
I could replace the pipe section with a bellow but would it be a benefit to get rid of the crinkle bend pipe and replace it with mandrel. Is there an issue with a solid piece pipe other than needing it to be perfect to mate? Will a larger diameter pipe (2.5) help or hurt spool? I think the turbo is where it should be I haven't repositioned it from where it was with the stock pipe intact. My biggest concern is getting the flare off the header right without causing the pipe to be to short. The idea was to use 2 90 degree bends and cut the ends to length, weld the triangle flange on and lastly take the pipe to a muffler shop to have the flare done.

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That sounds like a great idea. Are you running AC on the car?
The Ebay headers may need some work but would be better than the stock headers, and have the up-pipe for $200
I know you are not trying to be cheap, but looking for a solution, and this may provide both.

There must be plenty stock up-pipes available if you want one of those to get you on the road.
 
#5
I forgot about those headers. Maybe a mild steel pipe is a better idea to get me through the summer and get a set of the speed daddy's and fit them this winter. I don't have a.c. I fitted my car with a heat only box so I don't have to worry about this placement of the o2 sensor. Great idea jerryl!!

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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#6
I forgot about those headers. Maybe a mild steel pipe is a better idea to get me through the summer and get a set of the speed daddy's and fit them this winter. I don't have a.c. I fitted my car with a heat only box so I don't have to worry about this placement of the o2 sensor. Great idea jerryl!!

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For a winter project; "I" would look at IC headers with custom up-pipe since there is no AC.
Easy to find, and will be the last headers you need from a performance standpoint.
 
#7
What would this entail? Adjusting the turbo flange on the headers by shortening it and angling it upwards and building a up pipe similar to the stock setup. Has this been done before and documented on a thread so I can copy a proven design? Thanks for chiming in to my million questions, I never seem to have a shortage of questions with this car. If i was half as interested when i was in school as I am learning about these cars I could have had a law degree or PhD by now lol. My wife thinks I'm obsessed but I like to consider it a passion

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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#8
What would this entail? Adjusting the turbo flange on the headers by shortening it and angling it upwards and building a up pipe similar to the stock setup. Has this been done before and documented on a thread so I can copy a proven design? Thanks for chiming in to my million questions, I never seem to have a shortage of questions with this car. If i was half as interested when i was in school as I am learning about these cars I could have had a law degree or PhD by now lol. My wife thinks I'm obsessed but I like to consider it a passion

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It has been done before. Matter of fact, someone in the B4Black section is running this setup.
I have never mocked it up, but you probably do not need to modify the headers. Just build an up-pipe from header to turbo.
E-bay headers will be cheaper and easier though. If you have access to a free welder/services, the Ebay headers are the way to go IMO. The final decision on adjustment capability, total cost, looks, are clearly yours. Just suggestions since I know nothing about the goals for you and your car.

Passion is a rarity these days.
 
#9
I am enjoying this thread guys.... I have been looking at those E-bay headers and really need a push to get them. Have any of you installed them and if so which ones and what do think of them overall? Thanks
 
#13
I recently tried mocking up the 84-85 and 86-87 headers and different accessory brackets and pulleys (both Champion Racing brackets, stock 86-87 and the 84-85. Each arrangement presents their own problems. The 86-87 headers won't fit unless you move all of the 84-85 accessories (alternator, etc.) to the driver side. If you use the 86-87 accessory bracket, you can't use the 84-85 coil and bracket because the belt tensioner is in the way. You would need longer wiring to relocate the coil and module and longer spark plug wires. Where else are you gong to put it? The alternator sits too high so you also have to move the MAF location (longer wires) or better yet go MAFless. The stock 84-85 fuel filter also has to be relocated from the front of the engine to the frame.
 
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#14
Someone should build a bracket to move the AC and Alternator to the DS and use the IC header.
The Champion AC delete bracket is the best alternative if you have removed the AC and want to use the 86-87 passenger side header with a custom up pipe. You need:
1) Champion AC delete bracket (The one w/power steering mount)
2) 86-87 power steering pump w/reservoir and both hoses/clamps and both steel hard lines to steering box
3) 86-87 alternator (The 84-85 alternator won't attach to the Champion bracket)
4) 86-87 positive battery cable. It has the length needed to relocate the alternator.
5) AC Delco alternator power wire (Don't remember the number, but it's the same one people use to change over to 120 amp alternators. It gives enough length to relocate the alternator too.
6) 86-87 serpentine belt pulleys (crank.water pump, power steering and alternator)
7) serpentine belt 060512 if stock size pulleys are used
8)Relocate fuel filter to frame
9) I doubt there is enough power for the tiny 86-87 power steering pump to run the hydroboost and power steering. I would choose one or the other. I chose to run a S-10 manual brake master cylinder and power steering. You could also switch to a vacuum operated power brake system.
 
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#15
I am enjoying this thread guys.... I have been looking at those E-bay headers and really need a push to get them. Have any of you installed them and if so which ones and what do think of them overall? Thanks
I have an 84 with a/c. I bought speed daddy headers off ebay. They are worth $200 by far. SS, thick flanges,great fit except one thing. The up pipe was about 1.25 inches short. I had a muffler shop make a slip joint / flair and make one side longer. I am wrapping it so I didn't care about looks. The O2 was OK, and fit w/ a/c bracket. One more thing, buy a couple of GOOD band clamps. These work but I didn't want to find out if they wouldn't stay put after driving and racing, and have to crawl under the cer to fix. Add $50-60 to the cost.

Also, MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE 3 BOLT SET. They sent the4 bolt and I had to return them. The whole set, they wouldn't send the up pipe. Sent a question and make sure you order the right set.