turbo question??

the engine is just about running right, If i can find an MSD, ill check for knock. Right now i believe there is a bit of knocking going on in the engine that is clearly audible at idle.

:) That's funny!:D
 
the engine is just about running right, If i can find an MSD, ill check for knock. Right now i believe there is a bit of knocking going on in the engine that is clearly audible at idle.

Romone, you been here since August of 09 and we've tried several times to help you figure out what you need to do to get the car running right. I hate to say it but you need to listen to us and do the testing we suggest so you can get it working. You've ignored us and have been posting BS about K2 (dope is for dopes after all) and much more. You're young so I allow for some BS but you need to get your head in the game. The SFI cars are hard but the C/T cars are even worse to make work right. If you don't want to try and make it work right just sell the damn thing to someone that's willing to do the work and make it right.:mad: Sorry for the rant kid but get a frigging clue here!:mad: The MSD unit won't help you figure out what you need to know unless you understand how the system works!:rolleyes:
 
Tough love Charlie? He does have a point tho. As for the knocking, mine has knocked for years... its just the oil pressure being low and making the lifters knock... even after the rebuild. But I will be doing more to fix that this time around.
 
the engine is just about running right, If i can find an MSD, ill check for knock. Right now i believe there is a bit of knocking going on in the engine that is clearly audible at idle.

There is no 'knock' at idle. What we refer to as 'knock' is detonation in the cylinders cuased by the fuel igniting from sources other than the spark plug.

A knocking sound at idle is totally different and should be addressed.


I don't know of an MSD unit that displays knock, unless its some big dollar controller. Get a cheap scan tool or gauge from Caspers. And a boost gauge while you're at it. Don't do any "modifying" without boost and knock gauges.

The two gauges will cost less than $100 and are easy to install. No excuses. If you can't handle this, start walking.
 
There is no 'knock' at idle. What we refer to as 'knock' is detonation in the cylinders cuased by the fuel igniting from sources other than the spark plug.

A knocking sound at idle is totally different and should be addressed.


I don't know of an MSD unit that displays knock, unless its some big dollar controller. Get a cheap scan tool or gauge from Caspers. And a boost gauge while you're at it. Don't do any "modifying" without boost and knock gauges.

The two gauges will cost less than $100 and are easy to install. No excuses. If you can't handle this, start walking.

i think he has ping not knock. correct me if im wrong 83 turbo.
btw do the dang test everyone tells you to do and get the right carb. the test everyone is telling you to do are easy.
 
i think he has ping not knock. correct me if im wrong 83 turbo.
btw do the dang test everyone tells you to do and get the right carb. the test everyone is telling you to do are easy.

what the compression check, did that along time ago. Im still looking for the proper carb. a ping is probably more appropriate to say than a knock. Right now the engine runs, I just need to change the tranny fluid, add a bit of coolant, and replace that damn 6 spark plug:mad:
 
what the compression check, did that along time ago. Im still looking for the proper carb. a ping is probably more appropriate to say than a knock. Right now the engine runs, I just need to change the tranny fluid, add a bit of coolant, and replace that damn 6 spark plug:mad:

did you do a compression check of all 6 cylinders? when you do change the plugs take a picture of each one and post it; that will tell us more info on what going on inside the motor. you know i have the proper carb you need.
 
did you do a compression check of all 6 cylinders? when you do change the plugs take a picture of each one and post it; that will tell us more info on what going on inside the motor. you know i have the proper carb you need.

the last set of plugs i had were pretty bad. some were fouled and others looked burnt.
 
He needs an E4ME Matt. You've got a 4ME which doesn't have electronic controls.

he's in luck because i bought one awhile back. i know it does need a rebuild. it came from a community college, never put on a car still has the stickers from the factory on it. they used it to show student how to rebuild a electronic carb. i will have to post pics.
 
some parts look like there missing like the little arm for the (accl pump i think) it is loosly assembled this is the way i got it. so you will have to look through it and rebuild it. see pictures
carb number
17081243
2950 DAZ
BEFORE BLACK - Carburetors
looks like a 1981 carb
"1981 A All 17081243 17067190 E4ME " (before black.net)
 

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more.
if you need more pictures email me or tell me. i will sell it to you as is because i dont know the condition. (it was used in a community college for demo as i said.)
 

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Yea, it's missing the lever for the accelerator pump, no big deal

It has all the factory plugs in it - that's great. Leave those settings alone. I'd just makes sure there are no more missing parts and throw a new set of gaskets in it.
 
Check to see if the cam for the back two needles isn't broken. That's the one fatal issue I can see other than the pump lever.
 
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