TR engine removal in 1 hour.

It's also a big time savings when you already know the sizes of the bolts and nuts. 8 trips back and forth just to get a motor mount bolt or fuel lines loose can really add up.


My carport stays wet for a month after it rains.... and the decreasing slope causes sediment to accumulate under my car....
That's my biggest variance. That and NEVER remembering what size the cable nuts are on my ministarter.
 
My carport stays wet for a month after it rains.... and the decreasing slope causes sediment to accumulate under my car....


Speaking of sediment ...I spent about 3 hours today washing off all of the crap that my oak trees drop about this time every year.
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Sometimes tight quarters can be an advantage. Tools are close by.

I hate mini starters. The cable bolts suck and they sound like :poop:. Like a old Chrysler. I like my boat anchor.
 
I have a question for the more experienced Buick engine pullers....how much needs to be removed for the pull?? I know you can leave exhaust manifolds on ; I guess the quesion is how much of the front pulleys can come out with the engine??

Recently got one of ours in and just ready to crank. We had ex manifolds on and front cover, but very little "accesory and pulleys" stuff as we weren't sure how much we could assemble out of the car. Left throttle body off and used a plate to lift engine, so we had to do injectors and fuel rail, but that's fairly straigh forward. Also did not have turbo on...

Thinking back, I guess I coud have had turbo and bracket along with turbo oil feed line all hooked up,,?? How do you guys deal with the hard tubing fuel lines?/ we left ours hooked to the car and it looked like I wouldn;t have been able to snake em up there with the A/C "monster" bracket installed.

I also agree with "Fastblack" on the aging thing; 90 minuter jobs now take six weeks due to lack of motivation...the iron in my blood is definitely turning to lead in my ass.!!

Bob
 
I guess the quesion is how much of the front pulleys can come out with the engine??


Bob some of the other guys may have a better way but in the photo below you can see all of the stuff that I had installed prior to putting mine back in.
If I remember correctly the only thing I had to take back off was the coil pack and maybe the A/C bracket had to be loosened to route the harness that goes behind it.

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Hi RIck,

That looks nice under the hood...what are those lift straps made of, and I assume they go under the manifold to hold it.?? I noticed oil feed to turbo is not on; do you use stock tubing or a customized line?? I'd like to replace that hard line tube with something more "flexible"...

And Mike, also another nice looking engine...I see you have the fuel lines on already so I might look into dis-connecting the other line ends from the car and try that...appears you also have a different turbo oil feed and drain??

Anyway, definitely a lot more hooked up and less to do once in the car.

Thanks,

Bob
 
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appears you also have a different turbo oil feed and drain??


Yes.. I went with the Precision turbo saver (not pictured) and the return is braided steel by an unknown vendor. I chose the braided steel over the black mesh type return that I had purchased because it always had a kink in it no matter how I trimmed it or routed it.

The return was installed out of the car and this was a good thing because I may not have ever seen the kink otherwise.

Oh btw that junk STP filter was only to prime the motor on the stand.
 
I install mine missing the coil pack, crossover, starter, A/C, PS pump, and alternator.

Now that I use a mini starter, I think it's possible to have that in place but I've never verified it.



Another good time saver is to leave the hood in place. If the hook is damn near touching the plenum, you can get the engine out without even removing the hood shocks.
 
H&R parts sells the lift strap. One of the best investments I ever made.
 

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I've been using my Ancra motorcycle straps for years. They are so much easier to work with than chains and bolts.
 
Nice strap Rick.

I bet I'll catch some heat for this but I used tow dolly straps looped through the exhaust manifolds to form kind of a web on each side.
 
Nice strap Rick.

I bet I'll catch some heat for this but I used tow dolly straps looped through the exhaust manifolds to form kind of a web on each side.

Man you need to order a plenum strap. H&R Parts and Stuff has them for $25!

Motor looks great!
 
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Man you need to order a plenum strap. H&R Parts and Stuff has them for $25!

Motor looks great!


Thanks for the complement Rick.

I don't think I'll have time to get a strap because today I confirmed that the head gasket is gone and I need to have the motor out tomorrow.
I was just commenting in another thread that I've never had a head gasket fail to the outside of the block but now I'm eating my words.


Taking it to our other place so I don't get the evil eye from the neighbors.

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1 hr to pull an LC2 is reasonable for poeple who have done it before a few times. My first time took around 2hrs. Its all about knowing what to disconnect, what size wrench, and what position to get into. Air tools are a time saver too.
 
Got it out.....no records set but its came out with no problems. I liked the strap idea but I was out of time so I used an old seatbelt.

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