Tough knock question

Made some adjustments. Wow... got the idle to settle down, after adding over FIFTY PERCENT fuel to the idle via the gen 2 translator. As far as too rich, I have almost ALL the fuel pulled in EVERY PARAMETER both on the chip and on the translator. Things still running mid 9's while lightly accelerating lol. How? Especially on an alky chip, which I keep hearing is supposed to be already lean, due to the alky making up a percentage of the total fueling strategy. This tune is super odd to me. Put in a brand new wide band o2 sensor, and she's reading the same as my old one-ultra rich. Going to try my hand at the bailey chip now.

got it. Trying again.
 
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Pig rich with the alky off on the Bailey chip too. I'm what we say in the Army "LLMF" lol. Lost like a ************.
Another question. Why is my IAT stuck at 77 with the TT chip, and -80 some with the Bailey chip? I yank the 27 year old sensor and plug in a brand new one, and it reads colder lol. WTF??? How in the HELL does it do THAT?
 
in my experience if the car wont run on the tt chip or the fueling is that far off the issue lies elsewhere.i haven't read every thread here but the car seems to be real rich and that can be caused by a few different things.i will skip to the chase,try another maf sensor first,then make sure your intercooler piping and headers have not cracks.
 
Regarding the IAT. It's not used when you have a Gen2 hooked up. You should not have an IAT sensor plugged in. Ignore the readings on the scantool.
 
Did you set your base fuel pressure with the vac line off? Is the fuel psi gauge good?
 
I figured I'd ask,done it myself. Is the a/f steady pegged super rich when ur getting knock? On the GEN2 settings you have the base which is +/- across the board then the idle, low load, mid load, etc. Are you adding any fuel on any of those settings? Is the TT chip adjustable settings set to add fuel? Is the regular O2 sensor good? What is the wideband saying at idle and light cruise?
 
ITSAV6 said:
I figured I'd ask,done it myself. Is the a/f steady pegged super rich when ur getting knock? On the GEN2 settings you have the base which is +/- across the board then the idle, low load, mid load, etc. Are you adding any fuel on any of those settings? Is the TT chip adjustable settings set to add fuel? Is the regular O2 sensor good? What is the wideband saying at idle and light cruise?
Click to expand...
1. Yes. The AFR is about 9.4 or there abouts when the knock comes on.
2. Yes. I've added 50% fuel to idle and that helped a ton for the idle. Now it idles somewhat like a normal car. Pulled a boat load of fuel the rest of the way. Did nothing.
3. I do believe the standard O2 sensor is good to go.
4. When the widebands not malfunctioning, it says high twelves low thirteens for idle and about the same for cruise. Upon light acceleration, the wide band goes down to about mid 9 and there's not a dam thing I can do about it :( Just took the Bailey chip out because there's just wayyyyyy too much shit you gotta do to get his chip to adjust. First I gotta go rootin around in the ecu to find some D11 pin location thats not even on the directions, and then that only works if you have pressure in your air conditioning (who's 27 year old air con still works?) and if not you gotta jump some circuit, then dance a rain dance and who's got time for all that shit... Too much shit to do.

Switched mafs back to the old factory maf and it still is kinda rich, but not super rich like before. I've just made my brand new wide band replacement 02 sensor just shoot a malfunction code, so that's tits up as well. I'm thinking my wide band just sucks. Going to route it in my straight pipe where my cat was but now the sensor's too short, so now I gotta buy a wide band that has a longer sensor cable, so I have to wait to next pay check to get that, but it's my wife's birthday so there goes that idea lol. I'm just going to throw a standard issue TT 91 street chip in it, use 93 octane and be done with it for a while. Can't throw any more money at the car until next month so... I guess I am in a holding pattern until then. When I get that replacement street chip back, I'm going to send my TT alky chip back for a files review to verify if it's the fueling tables that are messed up, or my maf/wide band's tits up.
 
Sometimes keeping things simple works out better for some people than trying to get into the more complicated things with these cars.
Sometimes what works for other people doesn't work out for others the same way.
You could take 5 TR's and build them all the same way but each one will like something slightly different in the tune to run at it's best.
Sorry you had been having trouble with getting your car to play nice with the wideband and maf translator stuff.
Certain mods to these cars aren't always as easy to make work properly together for some people as it is for others.
Sometimes throwing on some of the "cool go fast stuff" causes problems that weren't there with the "not so cool go fast stuff" in place. Hope you eventually get things figured out and can get the car going without any issues that you been fighting with it.







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Thank you :) I am inclined to go with the simpler shit like a TT chip for race fuel with basic translator and set this alcohol kit and 2nd gen translator on fire, but I want that wide band AFR tracking thingy. I'm obsessed with it. Even though getting this frankenbuick sorted out has been a lesson in learning how to deal with shit without the aid of prozac, I must say I'm learning a boatload, and I enjoy the ride, even though it's super ultra frustrating and has driven me to drink lol.
I'm stubborn and I don't give up easily. To say fuckit and throw in the towel and trade it for a race fuel/basic translator setup would mean I got defeated, and got defeated while not giving it an honest effort. That there will haunt me for years to come. I have to give this an honest effort first. Taking the easy way out isn't my style. That's why I did what I did in the Army, and that's why I'm doing this now lol.

All I got left is to drop the tank to find out why my fuel gauge isn't totally accurate, find the source of my part throttle accel knock retard, do the window rattle elim kits with motor speed up mod to both doors, new calipers with braided lines, fix the fuel tank vent line hole, install this new knock and coolant temp sensors, s hose, new water pump, aluminum t-stat housing, body bushings and air con repair and convert to 134. Not too bad. At that point, this will pretty much be like a brand new GN lol. It's been a long and winding road this past 2 months, but a boatload got accomplished :) Like putting this massive solid rear sway back onto a set of umi trailing arms that have zero flex in them. WOW. That project ate my lunch. But I don't give up easily. I'm CLOSE, but not throwin in the towel just yet.
 
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The fuel gauge accuracy issue could be maybe dirty contacts on the gauge in the dash or something in the fuel level sending unit at the tank end might be dirty or have corrosion on it. I'd check the fuel level sending unit in the tank to see if there's something going on with that, if it's just flaky cause of age or there's wiring to it that is corroded somewhere of where it hooks upto the fuel level sending unit. I know someone had said in a post on a thread somewhere on this forum the steps on how to test to figure out where the gas gauge fuel level display accuracy issue was caused by and how to fix it.
Before you tried going to an alky setup, did you ever have it running good on just pump gas?


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I thought the TT chip used the ac,etc to make changes? I have the Bailey Extender extreme chip and the Gen2 is where i make changes. I would try another fuel gauge and verify my fuel pressure is correct. Does it rise 1-1 with boost?
 
Are you sure you have the maf settings set correctly in the Gen2? Bob Bailey helped me LOTS. He is very helpful!
 
All the basis setting I used on the gen 2 are set on it and mine works good I didn't hook up the extra wire and do the song and dance for the extra setting and mine works fine. I think there is a small tutorial on full throttles web site with basis setting that I used, and fine tuned my timing for the amount of boost I'm running. every think else was pretty much what was described on the web side and the settings worked fine for me. Stick with it will all come together
 
The fuel gauge accuracy issue could be maybe dirty contacts on the gauge in the dash or something in the fuel level sending unit at the tank end might be dirty or have corrosion on it. I'd check the fuel level sending unit in the tank to see if there's something going on with that, if it's just flaky cause of age or there's wiring to it that is corroded somewhere of where it hooks upto the fuel level sending unit. I know someone had said in a post on a thread somewhere on this forum the steps on how to test to figure out where the gas gauge fuel level display accuracy issue was caused by and how to fix it.
Before you tried going to an alky setup, did you ever have it running good on just pump gas?

I'm convinced it's something in the tank. The pump and its hotwire kit is new. I can hear shit rattling around in the tank lol. And yea, when I had the stock turbo, dutt neck intercooler TT chip and 42 pound injectors, the car ran nice.

I thought the TT chip used the ac,etc to make changes? I have the Bailey Extender extreme chip and the Gen2 is where i make changes. I would try another fuel gauge and verify my fuel pressure is correct. Does it rise 1-1 with boost?

It used to rise 1-1 with boost, but that was back in 2010. Same fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump though. My wide band shows good numbers at wot so I must be getting fuel. Will re-verify that soon though.

Are you sure you have the maf settings set correctly in the Gen2? Bob Bailey helped me LOTS. He is very helpful!
 And yes, I went thru the entire set up. All settings are double checked.

All the basis setting I used on the gen 2 are set on it and mine works good I didn't hook up the extra wire and do the song and dance for the extra setting and mine works fine. I think there is a small tutorial on full throttles web site with basis setting that I used, and fine tuned my timing for the amount of boost I'm running. every think else was pretty much what was described on the web side and the settings worked fine for me. Stick with it will all come together.

How did you fine tune your timing when that extra wire is what gets you your timing adjustments. For me, I was an alky user, so when I ran out of alky, I needed to turn down the timing, and I can't do that with the bailey chip without running all sorts of wires everywhere so I just gave up on that for now. Thanks for the encouragement :)
 
what were the wb readings when you ran the car on the tt chip and change the maf?slow down I know its frustrating,bypass the gen 11 for now and start with just the tt chip and maf.the vortex turbo buick website can help you understand things a little go there.
 
Mr.Spool said:
what were the wb readings when you ran the car on the tt chip and change the maf?slow down I know its frustrating,bypass the gen 11 for now and start with just the tt chip and maf.the vortex turbo buick website can help you understand things a little go there.
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same. I will take a few more runs today with the stock maf hooked up and re-verify.

34blazer said:
What are the injector constants set at? (Inj flow rate, voltage comp table)
Click to expand...

Don't know how to check that :(

Good news is that I found my hardware to re-configure my LC1 to be able to utilize the other analog output signal as a wideband as well so I can datalog more accurately, as Innovate said the main wideband output signal is not to be shared. Trying to figure it out now.

Edit: Bad news. Who in the HELL designed the wideband output programming connector to fit in NO COMPUTER ON THIS PLANET... MORONS!!! What laptop has a female 'serial' connector in it????

Not done yet. Found an adapter to this 45 year old cable at Radio Shack...
 
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