Tough knock question

Really? Too MUCH flow? I thought the more the better? I was reading an old thread where their cracking pressure was too little, not flow while open. Is that what you mean? I'm confused. At any rate, I totally meant to do that test a few days ago and forgot. I will idle it and slowly squeeze off the pcv line and see what happens.
 
I would block it off completely and drive around after resetting the ECM. Not sure you'll get good results by just squeezing it.
 
Ok. I still have the standard pcv too. If this improves my idle, should I throw that back in next to the rjc thingy to see if it does what it's supposed to do?
 
I blocked off the pcv for the test, because it was totally pulling a boat load of air in there. I always thought that was normal at idle to reburn the oil fumes but oh well. I blocked it off and reset the computer. It idles a TAD richer now. Around high 13's. Overall, not much of a difference. :( Though I finally used all my gas in my car-7.8 miles per gallon. Though that's with a lot of idle time, a massive pcv leak, and a decent amount of wot time too. I'm going to roll with no pcv for this tank of gas, and no idle, since there's really no reason now to idle it since I've pretty much corrected everything I have control over at this point. I just hope I can get this car on the road for a full tank of gas before the weather goes shitty.
Got a recut chip coming and we're going to see how that idles, along with this new Z06 maf too :) Of course I'll try them separately for experimentation's sake.
 
Latest run. Stock maf, TT street chip, 18 psi of boost, running factory wastegate solenoid, 43 psi line off, 93 octane, and blocked off pcv. Idles around average of mid 13's (best yet without the translator) This is an odd run because with ambient air temps of around 65, she runs around 18 psi with no knock (which is super odd. I can only normally get around 16 with no knock) but then I got a large spike of KR but my AFRs are ok at that range. It goes down too, WHILE still under WOT conditions. But then I switched of of the parameters to spark advance, and I don't see a large change, to reflect the retard. Weird. Also, my WOT are very nice too. Right where I wanted to be. Nice block learns too.

Since last post, I threw in a new tps, new iat sensor, new knock sensor, new narrow band denso, poly drivers side motor mount, and epoxied the factory pcv valve shut. I can say that my gaps around my front sway bar inside my intercooler shroud are nice and even too now :)

Everything seems to have gotten better, but I got a large KR spike. Do you guys think that was false for some reason? It got ironed out, and didn't seem to be from leaning out either. What say you.


Edit: Looking at that file again, I see I'm at 14.1 AFR (no clue why) when my boost's en route to maxing out. At that moment I'm at 8.9 psi. Then mid 13's for 11.8 psi. Is that too lean? This is with all factory TT chip settings.
I'm thinking it's something else, as it doesn't happen with the three other WOT bursts.
 

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Just put in a new zo6 maf (uhhh there's no zo6 setting on the translator so I guessed ls185mm) and it ran. Just like before. Rough idle, my idle tps went instantly from .46 to .42, the idle was super lean, had to add fuel, it barely helped, lots of tip in stumble, and the transmission downshifted into first when it should have been shifting into 2nd. This translator is weird. I yanked it and went back to the above condition, and the idle smoothed out, all the blms/integrators went back to nice numbers, the tps went back to .46... Weird. Gotta drop this thing off to get checked.
 
Here's my latest runs from a few days ago. She actually runs pretty good, but putting it on full on kill mode would pretty much destroy whatever traction I still have left lol. Gotta try a factory front sway bar w/ stock rubber hardware, and swapping out my cargo coils for factory rear springs. Going to take a little more air out of the tires too. During one of my accelerations, my car downshifted to what I think was the wrong gear and my KR spiked when my rpm's shoot thru the roof in a matter of a half a millisecond. It's weird. My car only shifts like this sometimes.
 

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Here's my latest runs from a few days ago. She actually runs pretty good, but putting it on full on kill mode would pretty much destroy whatever traction I still have left lol. Gotta try a factory front sway bar w/ stock rubber hardware, and swapping out my cargo coils for factory rear springs. Going to take a little more air out of the tires too. During one of my accelerations, my car downshifted to what I think was the wrong gear and my KR spiked when my rpm's shoot thru the roof in a matter of a half a millisecond. It's weird. My car only shifts like this sometimes.


You can see in the 2nd run, that while my tps is maxed at 4.40, my injector pulse width immediately goes to 0, and my afr sky rockets immediately. When my KR sky rockets along with it I immediately get out of it. Does anyone know why my pulsewidth plummets to zero there?
 
Is cutting fuel under max boost better than letting the engine rev a little higher? And what let my car hit the rev limit? (were my tires slipping? I'm not sure.) What IS the rev limit on a TT street chip?
 
Is cutting fuel under max boost better than letting the engine rev a little higher?

Not when running alky, it is spraying while the fuel is being cut. Usually need new head gaskets after that occurs.

And what let my car hit the rev limit? (were my tires slipping? I'm not sure.)

The RPM goes straight up while the log shows the transmission stays in 3rd gear. Since the vehicle speed didn't also go up at that point, looks like a transmission issue.

What IS the rev limit on a TT street chip?

Need to get in touch with Eric.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
What speed were you going when it happened?
I can't view the logs to see that.
Is it only happening in a certain gear when it does that?
What rpm's did it hit when it happened?

The factory chip rev limiter kicked in somewhere around 5200-5400 in 1st thru 3rd and around 2800ish in 4th with the 124ish mph limiter in that gear when it starved the engine from fuel at that point in those stock chips.

Eric would be able to tell you what your TT street chip is set for, but you shouldn't be hitting the rev limiter in 3rd going highway speeds between 55-70 or so. Does the car shift weird in any other gears?


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What speed were you going when it happened?
I can't view the logs to see that.
Is it only happening in a certain gear when it does that?
What rpm's did it hit when it happened?



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MPH was 46 and rpm was 5921 on it's way down from 6424. Gotta call Lonnie to see if he could look at the file.
 
Something isnt right somewhere, shouldn't be seeing those rpm's at 46 mph even if it kicked down to 2nd gear from 3rd. Something is slipping some place really badly, lucky it didnt blow any gaskets.


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Nevermind. Dumb ass question. At any rate, I got ahold of Lonnie and have a course of action for the initial diagnosis.
 
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Glad you got ahold of him and you both came up with a solution for a course of action.
The only dumb questions are those that aren't asked, only way to find out if someone has an answer for it is if you ask.
Hope you get it resolved fairly quick, so you can enjoy it again with less worry about something bad happening.


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Ok, couldn't check shift points tonight BUT, have a new basic translator and Z06 maf and it's runs great. The BLMs were awesome half the night, and then they started dropping to 119 :( and the car started idling just a little leaner but still good. Car definitely reacts faster and pulls harder down low with this new maf in. Got factory rear springs coming in monday. Will install those, disconnect my front sway from the end links and tie it up out of the way, and drop a few more psi out of the tires to see if I can get this car to hook. Have the TT alky chip en route and I finally found some more meth. We'll see what happens next week...
 
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