Top end rebuild but shaky Turbolink Info

B

Buickcruiser

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Hello Guys
I have done the following upgrades because of a blown head gasket. oversized t.b. new valve springs, adj. Fuel pressure regulator, . adj. wastegate, 86/87 ECM, Turbotweek chip, Turbolink, hooker exhaust w dump pipe, Welbro 307 Fuel pump w/ Hot wire kit and 50 lb.injectors and ported heads
I started the car yesterday and it is running a little ruff, I have hooked up the turbolink and the results are a fallows:


Fuel Pressure was 25 with the line on and 35 with it off

1st startup
IAC 175 68%
LVB 116-180
TPS volts .50-.86
Integrator 128
02 volts 394
Block learn 128
02 Delta cnts 0
Man air temp 80
700-925rpm
ECS 1
Spark retard 0.00
Mixture lean
Battery Volts 11.7


With ALDL everything else is the same as above
Injector PW 15.7 – with a few frames showing 0
Spark advance 39-42
Clear flood no
When the it was backing out of the garage
02 volts 492
02 delta cnts 34
One frame showed an error code 12 No rpm reference pulses

After a pulled it back in the garage
o2 volts 761
RPM 900
Batter volts 14.1
02 delta cnts 0
Mixture rich

If anyone has the turbo link directions that show normal levels I would appreciate it if you could email me a copy.
I know this is long but thanks in advanced for your help.
David
 
well i made it 4 lines down and i noticed a problem right off the get go. turn the FP up. read the directions that came with the chip. i think it calls for 43 pounds line off. double check on that as i set mine when i first got the chip and havent touched it since. also noticed in your post you put the Tlink is reading "Mixture lean" so you need to turn your FP up.also do the IAC reset procedures and also set the TPS to the correct voltage. your tps is to high at idle. also you might want to look into the voltage problem. your voltage is really low! humm read further down the post volts went back up maybe it was just reading wrong for a few seconds. Correct what i said Recap RESET IAC and TPS, ADJUST FP and you should be good to go. also you might want to invest in a powerlogger its a much better tunning tool. if you cant afford it right now thats cool at least you have something. let me know if i can help more. also Turbo Regal Web Site has the procedures how to adjust the TPS and IAC if you dont know how.
 
Hey guys
Ok I turned the fuel pressure up and the car started to smooth out some. I then shut it off to grab some dinner and came back out to adjust the TPS and the IAC, but it won’t start (It will crank but not start:confused: ). You were correct in noticing that the voltage was low at 11.7. For some reason the third time I started it, it popped up to the 14 volts. Does that sound like a bad alternator? What is the min amount of volts/amps that is takes to start a gn? Is there any way to test the battery? I have tested the volts and it is around 12.5 but if I test the amps won’t it blow up a multi meter?
Thanks for your help.
David
 
Put a voltmeter accross the battery terminals. You should see 13.5 to 15 volts. If not- the alternator is bad. Hope this helps. Brad
 
OK
Brad do you mean that it should have 13-14 with the engine off??? I am about 12.45 with the engine off. I pulled the battery last night and took it to advance and they said that it was fine and it didn’t even need charged. I put it back in and was able to start it for about a second or two but I had to put my foot on the gas. Then it would even start with my foot on the gas. The FP is 39 at the line with the hose on. Is it possible to set the IAC & TPS with the engine being cold? (I think you can set the TPS but not the IAC) Does this problem make since to anyone? It really puzzles me because it was running really good once I turned the fp up. Also I had a question about the MAF it was 1st run 20-30 second 18-25 3rd a constant 15.
Thanks
David
 
ok what is your TPS setting right now and what is it at WOT. If that checks out good unplug the MAF and see if it starts and if it does. does it run better with it unpluged.
 
Hey Boost231
Ok on my lunch I went home and hooked up the turbolink. I am getting .48 with foot off pedal and 4.48 all the way down with the mat out. I know this is not right where they are supposed to be but it’s not that far off. Would that little .02-.07 affect the car that much? I also tried to start it several times with the maf on and off. But no luck it wouldn’t start. I did notice that the voltage was dropping low when I would crank it, tlink was reading between 3-7 volts?????? Could that be the cause and if so what would cause it??? Bad wire??? Also when the voltage dropped the number would go wild mat would go to -50?? Any ideas??
Thanks for your help
David
 
humm really wierd.let me try to think about this and i will get back to you.
 
Grounds

The voltage is dropping to 3 to 7 volts when cranking is that right if so
sounds like 1 of 2 things or both
1. Bad grounds (which can also cause all sorts of wierd voltage problems)
2. bad battery
Just my .02 worth
 
i think its the grounds myself. not only do i think this due to the voltage drop while cranking but the voltage that the tlink was reading while it was running. sometimes it was good sometimes it was low. check the ground on the front of the block on the passenger side i think there is 3 or 4 grounds there. There is one bolt that contains all those grounds and those wires have to be grounded. i would take that bolt out and clean it up really good and clean the surface area as well. also check the one thats on the driver side rear bell housing make sure its there and secured to the firewall. i think once you check these and you find the front ones lose it will start right up/.
 
Hey Guys
I am heading out of town in a few. But I will be back Saturday and check all of the ground wires. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks Again
David
 
Check you ground strap, these can go bad. Replace it with the nicer new one and see what that gets you.
 
Hey guys
Got back in town and checked all of the wires. I noticed that the positive battery cable was frayed at the bottom and was very close to grounding. I bought a new wire and attempted to start and the car sounded a lot stronger but would not start. Pulled a pug and it was covered in black suit. So I pulled all of the ones on the dr side and they all looked like that but the one in the far back had oil on it.:mad: Did a compression check and it was reading 130 over all three cylinders. I am going to get new plugs and wires today and see what happens. I hope the oil I saw on the rear plug was just a little that was spilt when I put new oil in. I really hope so!!
I’ll Keep you all posted.
David
 
Hey Guy’s
Advanced finally got the plug wires in. Installed them along with new ac 43ts plugs and new positive battery cable and crank and it fired right up. :D It’s running great. I will hook up and adjust the iac and tps on Monday bc I have to go out of town this weekend. But just wanted to thank everyone for their help. If it wasn’t for web sites like this one I wouldn’t have a gn. They’re too finicky. Ol, the oil on the plugs I am 99% sure it was the oil that I had poured on the rocker arms before I put the covers on. Does the 130 compression test sound ok? I was thinking it should be a little higher but it is a constant among all cylinders.
Thanks
David
 
130 is fine for a 20 year old motor. as long as all the cylinders are showing around that # your good. if you need anymore help fill free to ask.

Boost231
 
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