Taking Engine parts to machine shop, what to have them look for?

cabech984

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Alright, I am planning on taking my 109 block, heads, crank, & rods to my machine shop this week. All parts are the stock parts. I know this engine has been apart at least once. I tore the engine down last week and all is well except for #1 Rod Bearing spun. The rod looks okay but the crank is burnt blueish & you can feel slight grooves in the journal on the crank.

Is there anything I should have them inspect or do to the block, rods, & crank? Im also taking my heads to be inspected as well for flatness, and to be refreshed if needed. I plan to do a stock block rebuild if all the inspections go well. Im going to use an aftermarket cam, & ARP Bolts. I may upgrade to a bigger turbo & injectors & chip.

Thanks for looking
 
I may be going tomorrow to have them check it out. I need some advice. Is there any problematic things I should have them look for?
 
Hi,
I had my TType motor gone through last year, machine shop recommended align boring, as I bought the ARP stud kit for the mains. The rods should be resized whenever you are replacing rodbolts,and I had that done too. My bores were very clean, so the shop just did a nice, smooth hone for the fresh Sealed power forged pistons I am using.New cam bearings were installed,and before I brought them the block,I removed every plug in it, to ensure proper cleaning. My crank was also in excellent condition, so Stock bearings are being used. I had the journals lightly polished.In your case, you will have to cut the crank .010, using undersized bearings. Finally, I had the reciprocating assembly fully balanced, which proved to be the most pricey part of the job, as they had to install Mallory metal in one counterweight,and weld a balance hole over in another counterweight on the crank. I guess the forgings are significantly heavier than stock pistons, anyway reciprocating weight apparently increased,or the stock assembly was way out of whack.
I have not gotten around to assembly of all this stuff yet, but have checked a set of rings and miked a piston or two versus their respective bores, fit there looks good. Sorry I sound so lazy, but the fact is, with all the other automotive stuff going on in my environment, it's hard to assault this project properly.
By the way, I also ran out of dough before getting to the heads, which are quite another issue.In the next couple of months, should get back on track.
I hope this info helps, keep in mind that a good machinist is your best friend on this project, and will ease assembly to the point of the mundane. Good luck with your project!
 
I got the engine w/ ARP rod bolts installed already. Hope that isnt why that bearing spun. Im looking forward:confused: to spending money on the machine work. I may get them to hottank the block, Im figuring the crank will need ground on the rods. I am putting ARP Main Studs in as well so I'll see what they suggest as well.

Im probably not going to be balancing my rotating assembly so that should save some dough.
 
Hi,
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you reconsider not balancing the reciprocating assembly. If you have reasons that are not obvious, I would appreciate hearing about them. If it's only a monetary issue, then I would stop the project until funds are available.A well balanced motor is VERY important in high demand situations; strain on the rest of the engine will be extremely high without that smoothness. Spend the cash, then you can relax. I'm talking about stock bottom end motors here, not some 9 second Kamikaze!
That's my opinion, take it, or leave it.
 
he is right. balancing the assembly is the way to go.they should have balancer and flywheel when they balance it. see what machine shop says.make sure they have done buick turbo motors before. and if you dont have the money now .wait till you do. this is not the place to be cutting costs.lol
 
he is right. balancing the assembly is the way to go.they should have balancer and flywheel when they balance it. see what machine shop says.make sure they have done buick turbo motors before. and if you dont have the money now .wait till you do. this is not the place to be cutting costs.lol


Damn, I broke the stock balancer too:frown: If I dont balance the engine could it be bad even for stock power levels? If it is gonna benefit me big time then I'll probably go ahead and do it. How much have you guys paid to get the engine balanced?
 
Im definatly open for opinions since I know very little about engine machine work. I know how to put them together, Ive built Detroit, Cummins, & GM 6.2/6.5 Diesel engines for the past 4 years w/ the Marines. Just never dealt w/ the machining side of the business. Now Im out and a College student/GM Tech student @ a Buick/Pontiac Dealer.

Funds arent an issue w/ the rebuild, Im trying to keep it stock though in case I have no choice but to go bigger on bore and journal diameters. I am going budget on the external components now, such as the stock rebuilt turbo, and other stock external parts.
 
If that stock crank was blue i would not use it. Too cheap to replace with a std one imo. Contact Chris McDade on this board. He sells std used ones. Line hone, resize rods with new fasteners(new stock bolts are fine for stock rods), plate hone, deck block, balance, valve job, resurface heads, and blueprint oil pump assembly. You could reuse the ARP rod bolts but be sure to resize.
 
Hi,
I'm no expert on machine work, either, but have been a professional mechanic for 30 years. Over the last 10 years, I have got back into the performance realm, and my vehicle of choice has been Turbo Buick. By no means do I know it all, as there are a bunch of people out there who are smarter,but I am smart enough to know the basics.
 
I took my engine today, the machinist I talked to has done quite a few buick 3.8's and actually had an N/A one they just built. Im having them;

Clean Block & Heads
Install Cam Bearings
Align Hone Mains for ARP Studs
Bore & Hone block .030"
Deck Block & Mill Heads
Install new Freeze Plugs
Grind Crank to .020" (already .010")
Recondition Rods (Align Honed for ARP Bolts)
Install Pistons on Rods
Valve Job & inspect springs & guides
New Rod & Main Bearings
Balance Rotating Assembly (need new balancer & pistons 1st)

So far, all that machining is gonna run me $1160
 
Does anybody have a rough amount they spent to get ther rotating assemble balanced? The Machinst quoted me $200 but now I bought .030 Speed Pro TRW's, which are going on stock rods & crank w/stock flexplate & balancer. Im just curious since Im still waiting on my pistons & balancer.
 
Does anybody have a rough amount they spent to get ther rotating assemble balanced? The Machinst quoted me $200 but now I bought .030 Speed Pro TRW's, which are going on stock rods & crank w/stock flexplate & balancer. Im just curious since Im still waiting on my pistons & balancer.

$200 to balance is about the going price, DON'T NOT BALANCE IT!
 
We have the latest computer balancer and charge $200 for a Buick rotating assembly. Make sure you have your balancer and flexplate done with the rotating assembly.

When changing pistons, you have no option and MUST balance all rotating parts.:)
 
We have the latest computer balancer and charge $200 for a Buick rotating assembly. Make sure you have your balancer and flexplate done with the rotating assembly.

When changing pistons, you have no option and MUST balance all rotating parts.:)

I'm getting it balanced w/ the flex plate & balancer!! I wasnt gonna balance it w/ the stock pistons but, since I have to go bigger I'm not going to avoid:D

Make sure when he hones your block, to have a torque plate attached.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Yep, Im getting the torque plate w/hone!! They say that is the only way they do them.

Im still waiting on my pistons, UPS apparently doesnt deliver in the snow:rolleyes: I got a balancer in the mail, I broke mine:frown:
 
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