Swapped to a 4L80E


A quick vid to show how beefy the 4L80 stuff is. In my opinion. the 4L80 is basically 2X stronger than the 200-4R.

Bob
Then you wont need it lol
I've made well over 1000hp on multiple 200s and mine dont come out much😉
If you want to do all the mods to run one of these trannies that's your choice.
But your build from what you posted is quite basic and at your lower level it should give you time,so your 200 should have given you.
ive seen plenty go down the road with much more stout builds and when the car is pushed hard they can break too.
Heck it all breaks at some point😉
Hope this is all you hope it to be and you have some good luck,but to say its 2x stronger and you have 0 time on the tranny and aren't pushing a 109 very hard is premature.
 
Would like to see an acceleration/shift point video and possibly a Gn-ecu log graph when its complete :)
 
Driveshaft is ordered. Going with a basic 3" steel. Giving my old 3" aluminum Dynotech shaft to my friend Scott (the guy holding the sawzall in the pic a few posts back).

Will have it in a couple days

Bob
 
My trans build is as follows.
97 2WD with slip yoke
Borg Warner HE frictions (these are the stock GM material), Raybestos regular steels
stock mechanical build other than rollerized rear thrust
replaced overdrive carrier, original one was worn
set low/reverse band 1 step tighter than stock using tool
internal dual feed, block both case (cup plug) and center support (set screw)
HD2 kit using new standard plate , drill .093 .110 .093 .110, all checkballs (Torlon) installed, no pressure relief
ream AFL valve
install TCC fixer valve
install "long" stator support bushing and ream to size
install Speedo-cable modded tailshaft housing (ebay)
install Sonnax retrofit (shorter) shift shaft.
install new internal harness
install stock pan, reuse original gasket

Overall a fairly basic build.

Bob
Your words as well
Timing is everything😉
 
The low profile urethane mount lands right on top of the stock crossmember. Its not centered front/back, so we are going to slot the mounting tabs where it bolts to the trans so we can slide it back a little, then mark it and drill thru.

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This is extremely similar to what I did. I think my bellhousing adapter plate is thicker, at just over 1/4", and so my mount holes landed nearer to center of the tube. I used urethane material I had around 3/4" thick and bolted straight through the crossmember into the tailshaft housing, making my own mount so to speak. No vibrations on the highway or anything so far, time will tell. It might not hold up like a real mount and might have to change later.
 
Driveshaft received, column linkage parts modified. Will post pics soon.

Shout-out to Rich at DriveTrain Specialists for the great service getting the driveshaft built and shipped in a couple days.

Bob
 
Been lurking quietly and reading posts. Maybe I missed it but I'm wondering how much money should one expect to spend doing a 4L80 conversion? I rebuilt my 200 in 2003 with the help of a local Buick friend and it worked fantastic the one time I got it to the track. Due to an unfortunate tuning mistake the car ended up with the engine removed and the torque converter was left sitting on the input shaft of the tranny for 10 years before I got it back on the road with a fresh engine rebuild. Tranny still shifts great...but under heavy throttle the tranny sprays fluid out of the vent and down onto the exhaust now. Gonna be pulling it here in a few weeks and just debating if I want to go thru it yet again or consider the 4L80?
 
Been lurking quietly and reading posts. Maybe I missed it but I'm wondering how much money should one expect to spend doing a 4L80 conversion? I rebuilt my 200 in 2003 with the help of a local Buick friend and it worked fantastic the one time I got it to the track. Due to an unfortunate tuning mistake the car ended up with the engine removed and the torque converter was left sitting on the input shaft of the tranny for 10 years before I got it back on the road with a fresh engine rebuild. Tranny still shifts great...but under heavy throttle the tranny sprays fluid out of the vent and down onto the exhaust now. Gonna be pulling it here in a few weeks and just debating if I want to go thru it yet again or consider the 4L80?
I've seen lots of guys extend the vent to a catch can/bottle. If thats your only issue at the moment, thats certainly the easiest.

I will be listing all of my costs as my project finishes up.

Bob
 
Trans is in the car. The dipstick tube is tight with the starter harness, so need to fiddle with that. No mods to the body seam.

Slotted the holes in the mount, installed the linkage bracket, driveshaft fits perfect.

Putting in a new radiator and trans cooler while things are apart.

The plan is to finish it next weekend.

Bob
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Trans is in the car. The dipstick tube is tight with the starter harness, so need to fiddle with that. No mods to the body seam.

Bob, what was your solution for the dipstick? At the moment, I just have the factory truck dipstick from the 4l80e in. It took some bending and fighting, and it doesn't measure full very accurately now. Not super pleased with it overall.
 
I'm using a TCI 743805 on the recommendation of Otto (the OP). It winds up in the stock spot (pretty close anyway). We calibrated it with the pan off, so we can control fluid depth
 
More progress today, crossmember is in (measure twice, drill once)
Dipstick tube was hitting the adapter plate, should have mocked that one up ahead of time.
Cooler lines partially run, shift cable connected, column linkage partially done.
Driveshaft in.
Harness connected and partially run.
I connected and 'bench tuned' the TCU previously, so that is ready to connect.. Connection to the ECU is just 4 wires.

We plan to finish tomorrow.

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First I want to thank my good friend Scott (QuickTurboV6) for all the help and patience on this build. All the work was done at his house. So I need to thank his wife Jennifer for all her patience also.

The trans is installed complete. More pics to come. The console and column shift linkages all work. The cooler lines are in and the new cooler installed.

Due to a flaky IMS (internal mode switch) we could only test a few things. But all the gears work, pressure control and feedback, trans temp, etc. (we should have installed a new switch during the rebuild, but I cheaped out)

The trans goes into gear cleanly with no clunks or drama. Everything fits, albeit tight in spots.

Very happy with the current status.

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I haven't measured all the angles, but it is pretty close to what my 200 was. once I get it on the ground I can do the whole driveline angle process.

The Tremec Toolbox app has a good anglefinder for this.
 
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