Stock stroke or go to a stroker kit?

fastestv6injaxs

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Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Hi everyone I know this is probably a worn out subject. I'm starting to build my engine and I already have Eagle stock length rods and JE .30 pistons bur still running the stock crank. My question is should I go ahead and spend the money for the new pistons and a stroker crank or just order a stock stroke steal crank? Because i stepped up to a precision 67/70 turbo which is good for up to 900hp. I dont plan on running that much power just hoping to get 700hp out of it.

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Im getting the popcorn ready.:D You will get lots of opinions this one. I say go stroker if money isn't a issue.
 
considering you already have the rods and pistons, it might be easier just to go with a stock stroke steel crank. I would also do 2 steel mains while your at it.
 
Well moneys always a issue. But im trying to build it right. I know its a big turbo so I want the bottom end to be able to handle whatever I put to it.

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Well moneys always a issue. But im trying to build it right. I know its a big turbo so I want the bottom end to be able to handle whatever I put to it.

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If its built right, then the tune will dictate how much it will handle.
 
I already have billet caps block is ready to go. Ive just heard the cranks are weak after 650 so was going to go ahead and get the steal crank. Then a buddy told me I would have some lag with that turbo so I was think about stroking it for some extra torque to make up for the lag.

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Are you talking 700 horse at the flywheel or the rear tire? If the flywheel, stay stock stroke and use what you have. If your talking at the rear tire...its gonna take more then a stroker crank and that turbo to get you there. I would add a girdle to either choice you make. Once you state your goal, a little better...the answers will become more clear, as most of the faster guys commenting will be in the same ballpark with the answers or opinions.
 
700rwhp I have gn1 aluminum heads champion intake the pt6768 turbo billet roller cam ill have to get the specs not sure of them right now. Have 70psi injectors to start with atr front mount. And after the engines done have to build a trans to handle the power also.

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If you have the extra money do a stroker. I love the low end torque I get from mine. Neither engine will be cheap to build and if you send it to the wrong person you are asking for failure. Most of the guys that can build these to take 700hp will have a waiting list for some time...Not just anybody can build what you are asking for.

Bryan
 
with the right converter no way that turbo will be lazy, at least none to justify doing a stroker just for that.
 
I mostly have the parts to build the engine just if I go with the crank just have to have it all balanced then I was hoping I could put it all together being that I know some about building these engine dont know the secrets that the pros know but I also dont have the money it takes for them.

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I mostly have the parts to build the engine just if I go with the crank just have to have it all balanced then I was hoping I could put it all together being that I know some about building these engine dont know the secrets that the pros know but I also dont have the money it takes for them.

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Then keep what you got, no sense in spending more money to do it over when you have a good foundation for a solid build already. Spend the money on a tune when you get her all together.
 
If I had all the parts then who would be a good builder to take it to around jacksonville fl

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I already have billet caps block is ready to go. Ive just heard the cranks are weak after 650 so was going to go ahead and get the steal crank. Then a buddy told me I would have some lag with that turbo so I was think about stroking it for some extra torque to make up for the lag........

If your reason for going with a stroker to get more low end torque, you will be disappointed? :eek:

I have had many stock stroke performance turbo engines and a few strokers, the low end is no different as the HP and torque will come in at a higher RPM in a given build. The critical component with your new turbo is to have a matching torque converter, not a little more displacement.

The V-8 and NA engines will respond better with a stroker than our small displacement turbo V-6, so your buddy could be correct, but I have found that not to be the case with our engines.

Also, be careful if you do build a stroker as a high lift cam as well as other items may be an interference issue unless you do a mock up or 2 to be sure the rotating assembly has proper clearance. :)

Whatever you do, it would be the smart choice to use a new forged steel crank for 700 HP, not a 25 year-old beat-on cast crank! :cool:

Also, you should find an engine builder that has SUCCESSFULLY build turbo Buick performance engines, especially if it is a stroker.
 
If your reason for going with a stroker to get more low end torque, you will be disappointed? :eek:

I have had many stock stroke performance turbo engines and a few strokers, the low end is no different as the HP and torque will come in at a higher RPM in a given build. The critical component with your new turbo is to have a matching torque converter, not a little more displacement.

The V-8 and NA engines will respond better with a stroker than our small displacement turbo V-6, so your buddy could be correct, but I have found that not to be the case with our engines.

Also, be careful if you do build a stroker as a high lift cam as well as other items may be an interference issue unless you do a mock up or 2 to be sure the rotating assembly has proper clearance. :)

Whatever you do, it would be the smart choice to use a new forged steel crank for 700 HP, not a 25 year-old beat-on cast crank! :cool:

Also, you should find an engine builder that has SUCCESSFULLY build turbo Buick performance engines, especially if it is a stroker.


Well then I will stay with the stock stroke steal crank I have seen that alot on here about not feeling a difference between the two but I thought I would need it with that big of a turbo. I agree about the crank I didnt want to run the factory crank and have to worry about it with all these other new parts. Thanks for the info everyone. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way.

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To make 700 rwhp...for real...your gonna need a pros help. A girdle will be a must. In talking to many guys who have built, tuned, or own engines at or close to this power range. It's not easy on a 109 block to do...and get it to last. The block becomes the weak point at that power level. The cost of the supporting items is tremendous. 3.5 downpipe, 95# inj, 3.5 inch driveshaft, headers, XFI or Pro EFI, killer trannys...built rear end...the list is endless. Ask me how I know.


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The main thing I want is a mid 10s at the track and ride around on the street with low 11s or high 10 and not have to worry about it if I want to race it on the occasional sat night

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The main thing I want is a mid 10s at the track and ride around on the street with low 11s or high 10 and not have to worry about it if I want to race it on the occasional sat night

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You don't need 700rwhp for that goal. 700rwhp should be in the 9's. Correct me if I'm wrong guys.

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