Stock Rod Prep Question

bkoons

New Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
My machinist suggested that I have the rod small end opened up for a bushed type fit, just without the bushings installed. Said he's done it on alot of performance engines with no problems. He also said that you really dont need a lube hole because there there is plenty of oil splashing around. Has anyone heard of or had this done?
 
My machinist suggested that I have the rod small end opened up for a bushed type fit, just without the bushings installed. ..............

The GN stock rod is week as is, and marginal for performance duty, taking "meat" out of the most stressed area is not recommended. Almost every stock rebuild we find one or two trashed stock rods.

Assuming you are doing a performance build, you are better off just going with a forged rod now that they are affordable.
 
If you are building an engine on a budget, just re-size the big end and check for straightness and leave them alone. There are tons of guys running 10's on stock rods. The K1 rods are NICE though, but do require a balance job. I would not make the rod full floating with out an oiling hole. These turbo engines have enough problems with pin oiling as it is. If you are building a 10 second or faster car, than go with the K1 rods. ARP bolts are a nice upgrade, but I have never heard of anyone that popped their engine due to a stock rod bolt failing. They are, after-all, an SPS made bolt (turbo rods).
 
..... .. but I have never heard of anyone that popped their engine due to a stock rod bolt failing. They are, after-all, an SPS made bolt (turbo rods).

We have seen many rod failures, not all stock rods use SPS bolts. The majority of engine problems we see are rod/bearing failures. The rod bolt is not a major problem, but the cap register and twisting certainly is.:smile:

The rods in the turbo motors are the same a used in many front-driver GM models, and are the weakest link in a turbo engine.
 
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