Stock location Intercooler

Jimmyboost87

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
I'm thinking about going with the "stock location" aftermarket Intercooler... I'm not sure if I'm will to go the 1000$ way with precision's but GN1 makes a nice one as well and so does GBody parts... Has anybody bought one these and do they recommend it? I'm not racing the car so front mount is out plus I just don't like the look of it. Thanks for reading
 
I have the precision, it's a beast...

A dutt neck and alky does wonders too, just something to think about.
 
I have the precision, it's a beast...

A dutt neck and alky does wonders too, just something to think about.
I have a TA49 and 42.5 injectors with a TT chip and alky... I really didn't wanna go for 1000 but will if people are say the precision IC is wayyyyy better than the GN1 for 600. I mean I'm not racing the car but still want all I can get out of it. Do you thing there is really that big a difference btwn the GN1 and the precision??? 400$ difference. For that 400 is is worth it? I wanna buy it now but I also wanna be sure too. Thanx for the reply btw
 
If you have front frame bracing (including connecting brace) you may run into fitment issues with anything other than a stock I/c. I had a bigger combo picked out and changed it up midstream soon as I realized a bigger slic would interfere with connecting brace, went back to duttneck/alky te44 restalled 12" tc. just for the sake of keeping the car as solid as possible.. Far as a precision slic my opinion is even if its overkill capacity wise, it can provide other benefits such as helping to run a slightly tighter converter for a particular turbo due to less restriction allowing turbo to spool slightly faster, that in addition to larger less restrictive intake track and maybe the ball bearing option for a given turbo could allow you to run a tighter converter to closer match the rpm range of your cam.. as the smart ones here say its all about combo and there certainly is more than one way to skin the cat :woot:
 
If you have front frame bracing (including connecting brace) you may run into fitment issues with anything other than a stock I/c. I had a bigger combo picked out and changed it up midstream soon as I realized a bigger slic would interfere with connecting brace, went back to duttneck/alky te44 restalled 12" tc. just for the sake of keeping the car as solid as possible.. Far as a precision slic my opinion is even if its overkill capacity wise, it can provide other benefits such as helping to run a slightly tighter converter for a particular turbo due to less restriction allowing turbo to spool slightly faster, that in addition to larger less restrictive intake track and maybe the ball bearing option for a given turbo could allow you to run a tighter converter to closer match the rpm range of your cam.. as the smart ones here say its all about combo and there certainly is more than one way to skin the cat :woot:
No bracing the car is stock in that aspect. You think there will still be a fitment issue?
 
No bracing no fitment issues with most any I/c other than the pte slic up pipe potentially rubbing against the hood pad. Personally I wouldn't drive a tr without at least the basic braces installed including the ones that form a triangle up front, potentially Interfering with a larger intercooler.
 
First you need to determine what are your goals with the car and what boost levels are you plan on running before you purchase any intercooler. Then we can dertirmine what intercooler would best suits your needs.
 
I had a GN1 SLIC on my old combo. Was only a high 11sec combo then but it worked and fit well. It uses a 2.5in up pipe so with stock headers mine just barely touched the hood pad. It did interfere with the passenger side front brace bar, but you can bend it to fit or make a plate to lower the mounting point on the cross member.
 
I had a GN1 SLIC on my old combo. Was only a high 11sec combo then but it worked and fit well. It uses a 2.5in up pipe so with stock headers mine just barely touched the hood pad. It did interfere with the passenger side front brace bar, but you can bend it to fit or make a plate to lower the mounting point on the cross member.
Also had the GN1 from Mark ( TR Custom ) I had to move the Driver side front brace over some. Drill a new hole, no big deal. Moved it back when I up- graded to the RJC 315 front mount. And yes Jimmy colder air does make more HP.
 
If you end up with the GN1, you may need to trim the opening for the sway bar. Mine rubbed and rattled like a bitch, not to mention I had to do something about the sheet metal screws coming undone after the first few runs. Once I made it past that it was fine. BTW, I just read through your other thread about buying and selling parts. Before you spend another dime, do some research, these engines/cars are NOT good with just throwing random parts to go fast. You MUST combo the right parts to make the power you are looking for. Have an end goal in mind or a budget and build from there, you mentioned NOT wanting to spend a lot of money... but it sounds like you have and are spending a lot of money. just my $.02 Good luck with your build.
 
Would there be any advantage to running the GN1 or precision IC on a stock car? I have a stock car, would like more power but only willing to do bolt on mods.
 
Would there be any advantage to running the GN1 or precision IC on a stock car? I have a stock car, would like more power but only willing to do bolt on mods.
Very minimal gains if you don't turn the boost up..
 
GN1= Chinese plus Archie knows it all, but Mark is a super guy. Precision made in USA, by from Mike at Full Throttle another great vendor.

The braces are easy to work around and can be ran with either. Just a little creativity is needed.

FM cars run hotter than SLIC cars even with dual fans 160 stat and all shrouding in place. Slic cars can run a 180 stat and still be cool with AC on.

It is your choice.
 
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