STEP BY STEP ENGINE REBUILD!

Ok thanks guys i will check that out upon reasembly!

On another note started to clean up my engine bay put some new paint and recover some wiring harness here are my inner fender wells before and after i cleaned and painted them tell me what you think!

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No did not sand blast it only sand paper and degreaser!


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Well guys here we go! Got all my parts back so i could not wait to build my beast so let me know if you see anything wrong in what it did please!


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So here is a pic of the bare block and upper bearings

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Now with upper bearings lubed up

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Next in comes the crank and main caps wich i torqued to 100 foot pounds in 3 increasments!

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I did not take any chances i put right stuff in the back off the last main cap to try and seal perfect!

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Next piston and rods and rod bearings! I torqued the rod bolts to 55 foot pounds with oil as recomended from arp! Short block complete! I am getting realy happy!

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Next oil strainer torqued the bolts tp 11 newtons
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Next camshaft going in well lubed up!

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Next instalded timing chain aligned dot to dot on the 4a position wich i believe to be 0 degrees( staight up) torqued the two bolt on the sproket to 31 foot pounds!

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Next timing cover goes on torqued all the bolts to 22 foot pounds

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Time for the oil pan gasket and oil pan to go on! Used a felpro 1 pieces gasket trimed the timing cover gasket flush to the timing cover and put a dab of right stuff then torqued bolts to 88 inches pounds!

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Time for the head gaskets and heads i cleaned perfectly surface of head and block put my gaskets on my heads on and torqued bolts to 75 foot pounds in increasment of 25-50-75

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So thats where i stoped for tonight cant wait to get it running again!

Give me your input guys its realy important to me and this tread!
 
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I'd pop that pan back off and get a Melling pickup that doesn't have a trap door. I didn't see a mention of checking pickup to pan clearance. With that thick ass Felpro rubber gasket (that my have already split) you might not be sucking off the bottom.

Home Depot has some rare earth magnets by the bolt drawers. Never hurts to stick a few of them here and there.


Did you take you cover apart and do my oil mods?
 
Couple things I see here. Correct me if I am wrong. No mention of checking bearing clearences. Toss the felpro oil pan gasket and use a cork or cometic. As what about that oil pump? Also head studs instead of bolts. Is that a used flat tappit cam? Lifters all in the same spot? Not being picky ,just trying to help.

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Heres the intake before and after

Before

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After

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Heres the intake before and after

Before

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After Hello; Lools like a good job but I would suggest is getting your sandpaper out and do the insides also. I mean the channels to the engine. In my case I bought a used one and found alot of raised area in there that has to help how it runs. It's not on yet as I want to get it coated with something and it won't be powder.
Good luck.
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Couple things I see here. Correct me if I am wrong. No mention of checking bearing clearences. Toss the felpro oil pan gasket and use a cork or cometic. As what about that oil pump? Also head studs instead of bolts. Is that a used flat tappit cam? Lifters all in the same spot? Not being picky ,just trying to help.

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X2
 
I'd pop that pan back off and get a Melling pickup that doesn't have a trap door. I didn't see a mention of checking pickup to pan clearance. With that thick ass Felpro rubber gasket (that my have already split) you might not be sucking off the bottom.

Home Depot has some rare earth magnets by the bolt drawers. Never hurts to stick a few of them here and there.


Did you take you cover apart and do my oil mods?
The felpro gasket is very thin i compared it to a quork gasket and its the same pick up to pan clearance is good i checked with playdow . I already put a nice magnet on the bottom of the pan! And yes earl your tricks are done and very easy to do by the way!

Thanks for the input its very usefull


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Last edited:
Couple things I see here. Correct me if I am wrong. No mention of checking bearing clearences. Toss the felpro oil pan gasket and use a cork or cometic. As what about that oil pump? Also head studs instead of bolts. Is that a used flat tappit cam? Lifters all in the same spot? Not being picky ,just trying to help.

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Bearing clearance was checked and was in spec oil pump was perfec and i did earl browns tricks to it i reused my arp head bolts because it was a brand new build that craped out cause of driveshaft that was to long and pushed on my crank the cam was flat tappet and was running just fine when i got it so i pur everything back where it was before! Lubed everything good

Thanks for the input very apreciated!


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Too long a driveshaft should brake the trans not the engine. And what where you bearings clearences? Studs are better than bolts and cheap insurance. And cork gasket is a lot easier to keep leak free vs the felpro.

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Too long a driveshaft should brake the trans not the engine. And what where you bearings clearences? Studs are better than bolts and cheap insurance. And cork gasket is a lot easier to keep leak free vs the felpro.

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Clearence is .003 all around and somebody told me that if the driveshaft was to long it would push on the crank is that right or not and if its not the case what made my crank screw up like that!


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If the driveshaft was too long it would ruin the trans first IMO. It would have to ruin all the trust in the trans..low/center/front to get to the crank and plus the convertor floats on the pump gear ears. It is possible the convertor ballooned and took out the thrust.

.003 on mains and rods is a no no, .002-.0025 and no more.

Sounds like you may have been a little misinformed.

I also have not read this entire thread so not sure on your original failure.
 
Converter to flexplate clearance(s) needs to be checked ! To tight will take out the crank thrust ! May be the cause of the failure.
 
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