Starting over with new engine..a little help?

mat231v6 said:
c/t stands for carbed turbo just for anyone who doesnt know. we must be our own little community here i guess. dont worry triumph/buickv6 we had someone a while back that didn't know what ebrock was, 83turbo, and something else.
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hey i know what ebrock stands for.... :eek:
 
Thanks AJ, looking forward to the pictures. Am I going to need Hooker specific downpipes for them or can those be easily fabricated?

While on the exhaust... I plan to replace what I have when I get the headers. There is a pair of Hooker mufflers in the 'for sale' section that are 3". Is this a standard size? What diameter exhaust system do you all recommend for street applications?

Ive read somewhere that you dont want it too large or you loose some low end torque/boost, but ive also heard that you want it large so that the engine wont be restricted. Opinions Please?

Progress update: engine is out, all parts off except the %^&@$ crankshaft bolt and whats underneath. havent tried a pipe on the ratchet yet.

Charlie, I havent been able to find a '84 Turbo oil pick-up yet. Any ideas? Will it work with the 14 bolt pan?

Thanks Ya'll!
 
The oil tube pick up is the same from 78 to 87. It's just that the 84 and up are larger so it helps keep oil pressure up. Just look for the turbo specific pick up after 84.

As far as the exhaust I'd honestly say go with a 2.5". You can get Magnaflow mufflers at AZ in stock at most of the stores. It's a 2.5" in and out and around $80 or so here. Stainless steel so you shouldn't have to worry about it rusting out soon.
 
Thanks AJ, just keep me on your 'to do list.' Do you want the IC headers for that monstrosity I saw on the BS'ing thread?

Charlie, I found one on the 'Old Buick Parts' website, a NOS for 44$ Is that about the right price? Any other suggestions where to look, that seems a bit pricey?
 
Good grief, thanks again Charlie! SOLD!:biggrin:

I hope to get a breaker bar on the crank bolt so I can move ahead today, do some clean up and get some paint on the new engine.
 
triumph/buickv6 said:
Good grief, thanks again Charlie! SOLD!:biggrin:

I hope to get a breaker bar on the crank bolt so I can move ahead today, do some clean up and get some paint on the new engine.
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got the pics.... got them boxed.... memory card died.

lmao

i will unpack them and re pic them tonight!

LMAO

A.j.
 
Question: I can remove the oil temp sensor easy enough, but there is a square brass thing that somehow is screwed into the engine block, that doesnt look physically possible to unscrew. Do you need this brass thing, or can the sensor screw directly into the block?

Thanks AJ. Thats the way it goes sometimes, huh. I took a bunch of pics before and during the engine removal and tear down...go to download them to print and the battery's dead in the camera, and I cant find the charger. Arrrgghhh! Guess I will have to take the memory card to a print shop.

I will box my headers up ready for shipment tomorrow. I will PM you with shipping info.
 
triumph/buickv6 said:
Question: I can remove the oil temp sensor easy enough, but there is a square brass thing that somehow is screwed into the engine block, that doesnt look physically possible to unscrew. Do you need this brass thing, or can the sensor screw directly into the block?

Thanks AJ. Thats the way it goes sometimes, huh. I took a bunch of pics before and during the engine removal and tear down...go to download them to print and the battery's dead in the camera, and I cant find the charger. Arrrgghhh! Guess I will have to take the memory card to a print shop.

I will box my headers up ready for shipment tomorrow. I will PM you with shipping info.
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okie dokie, sounds great!

and yes, you can unscrew that brass block . and screw directly into block, but you will need an adapter i believe.

A.j.
 
So I look at the intake manifold gaskets. I have the metal pan that came with the rebuilt kit with the motor, and the felpro 1200 that edelbrock recommended. Which one, or both? I notice that the valley pan blocks the rectangular 'port' next to the center bolt hole, and the 1200 blocks all the port holes except the large rectangular ones. I would love to know the right terminology for these holes and their function. It doesn't seem right to block them off, or is it. The manifold has holes that would match the heads, so why does the recommended 1200 block these off?
 

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The 1200 is made to block off the exhaust crossover in the heads that heat up the intake and would eventually lead to the egr valve.
The stock style pan gaskets lets all the factory functions operate.
 
you dont need the 1200s.

the overhang is just going to add turbulence and hurt power. UNLESS you plan on fully opening both intake and heads to 1200 size.

use the FelPro 96033 thats composite.

The GM steel one will work, but ive had sealing issues with those before.

A.j.
 
Sorry, my net has been down for 4 days and am finally catching up again.

Glad I could help on the pick up for you.
 
I bought the 1200 cause thats what Edelbrock recommended. Aarrgghh!

I've tried to google a '96033 composite', but all I'm finding are the metal valley pans 96033. Is the '96033 composite' just the gasket, or does it include a valley pan?

The Ebrock manifold is not EGR, but dont I need a gasket that would let the exhaust crossover communicate? I have a hose from the right valve cover to the carb, and a sealing oil cap on the left, so the only way the sides communicate would be to open one of the exhaust cross overs on the 1200gaskets, right? Or is this the best set up:confused: I do seem to get some oil backwash into the air filter whick cant be goo for the carb, huh? 2Buicks mentioned a remote oil trap, can anyone elaborate??
 
as for the crossover, there is no need to equalize the banks, unless you need some heat for your intake during the winter. for most, it is just blocked off.

as for the PCV system.... a oil seperator would work indeed.

fel-pro composite.

autozones part number is

: MS96033

A.j.
 
Thanks AJ. I found the right gasket, I think. It looks to have a blue composite layer over metal. Right?

Charlie, as for the oil pressure brass block.. all I needed was a bigger hammer:biggrin:

It seems that this just feeds the idiot light in my car. Is there a Buick sender that would allow me to add an oil temp and pressure gauge?
 
You can add a three way block to it and then you have a place for the oil sending unit. I prefer a mechanical one but you can get electric if you want. One other way to do it is remove one of the galley plugs in the back of the block, drill a hole to run the line, and put the sending unit there.
 
charlief1 said:
You can add a three way block to it and then you have a place for the oil sending unit. I prefer a mechanical one but you can get electric if you want. One other way to do it is remove one of the galley plugs in the back of the block, drill a hole to run the line, and put the sending unit there.
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Charlie, I am having trouble finding any information about the 'brass block'. What is it called besides "that #$&* *^%$ thing that wouldnt come off!" so I can find a three way version.

By the way, Im almost ready for reassembly. When I took off the timimg cover and cleaned it, I didnt do anything to the oil pump. Do I need to open it up and repack the gears, or should it pick up where it left off?
 
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