I checked it out on Ebay last night. Ill have to send Earl a message and see if he has a pipe with black silicon as the red was all that was there.What is your suspension setup on the car? Front and Rear.
If you are running a 3.5" MAF with a 3" maf pipe, that definitely is not helping. Lookup on Ebay the seller Earlbrown (also a member of this board) he sells a complete 3.5" MAF pipe kit for like $75 I believe, which is a solid $30-40 cheaper than most other places. Buy that kit and install it. That will remove the most glaring bottleneck that I can see.
Are you able to monitor what your backpressure is on the headers right before the turbo? That is something that I would also have installed. Here is a link to a good, affordable pressure transducer that you can install in your headers. It is $50 for the sensor and the plug/wiring. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/49-pressure-transducer-sensor.html#/15-cable-yes Here is a link for a good stainless steel 1/8" bung to weld onto your headers: https://finishlinefactory.com/product/npt-weld-bung-stainless-steel/
My car was setup for more of a protouring stance and look. The front has QA1 economy coilovers, Howe taller upper and lower ball joints, hollow 36mm sway bar and adjustable SPC uppers. The rear is adjustable UMI uppers, tubular lowers, ATR rear sway bar and some A-body lowering springs. I'm actually pretty satisfied with how the car left and the 60ft despite the suspension not being ideal. It left straight and hard with no tire spin on any pass.
No I am not able to monitor back pressure but I wouldn't be opposed to it, thanks for the links there.
I do have one but haven't installed it yet. Will be in the next couple of weeks to help diagnose the current issue.Do you have a pressure transducer to monitor your fuel pressure? You can use that same pressure transducer I posted above for your fuel pressure transducer.
Got it, I have a feeling its restrictive but hopefully i can get something setup to test it out. I do plan on a larger FMIC that has end tanks out of the direct airflow path so it may possible help with cooling of the radiator which probably means an RJC unit.If your concern is that the FMIC you have is a bottleneck, I would install this MAP sensor in 2 spots; 1 spot right after the turbo in the pipe going to the intercooler. The 2nd spot in the pipe coming from the intercooler to the throttle body in the same location/ near where you would have your alky nozzles, but do it BEFORE the alky nozzles so that they do not interfere with the reading. This way you can monitor the pressure drop across your intercooler core and see how restrictive it really is. If you are seeing any higher than a 6psi pressure drop, you should consider buying a new core or complete FMIC kit altogether. Here is a link to the MAP sensor I am telling you about: https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/323-100-psi-map-sensor-7-bar-18-npt.html#/15-cable-yes now you can also use the pressure transducer I posted above, but you have to remember that the pressure transducer does not factor in the atmospheric pressure, whereas the MAP does. So the pressure transducer might read 34.7psi coming out of the turbo and 30.7psi going into the throttle body. Since the pressure transducer does not take into account the 14.7psi atmospheric pressure, you have to remember that for whatever reading it gives you..so that 34.7psi is really 34.7-14.7=20psi, you follow?
If you intend on getting a few of the MAP/Pressure Transducers, let me know, I'm a dealer for that company (and the Finish line Factory that sells the NPT Bungs) and I'll help you out on pricing so you don't get hit with such a high cost merely because you're trying to tune your car in a more informed manner.
Just something to keep in mind on a side note, if you're looking for something to not only help you monitor your sensors, but also help reduce the amount of gauges you have, checkout this gauge: https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/69-universal-gauge.html It can monitor up to 3 different gauges/inputs along with the battery voltage. You can setup pre-determined alarms for each of the 3 inputs in case your car goes out of what you would deem "safe"- so you can set up the boost pressure input (if you choose to have that as an input) so that if your car makes over 20psi the gauge's alarm will go off, notifying you of this so that you can abort the run and re-tune your boost controller. Same goes for all 3 inputs you have to the gauge. It is a pretty cool gauge that allows you to monitor multiple inputs with just 1 screen, helping to reduce all the clutter of having multiple gauges for monitoring purposes. Plus it has an analog output to connect to something like an external ECU or a Powerlogger (if you have any available analog inputs on the PL left).
Thanks, I have 3 available spots for input on the powerlogger but that gauge is very cool and useful with the alarms.