Stall range for 76gts?

sixgun86gn

six offender
Joined
Feb 10, 2002
Just took my TA block car out last night for the first time to the local 1/8 mile.

The launches are dismal, flash stall is around 3000 and will not make more than maybe 2# before time to leave,then the boost comes on reeeeeeeeaaaaal slow and first gear drags out to about half track.

The RPMs just will not come up fast enough,once it has reached 6000 or so and i shift it accelerates fast.

I have a PTC converter and I plan on sending it to be re-stalled. Just wondering what range I should tell them it needs to be in to get this turbo to spool.

This car runs like a dog with the converter thats in it now!:mad:
 
if streetability is not a concern i would throw in a 5000 stall. but why not talk to dusty as he really knows his converters among other things!
 
Dusty is the man and he will take care of you.
I would think you would need 3800-4200
Depending on the compression, cam and some other factors.
 
Patrick,

I can't believe that that thing isn't flashing more. Maybe it is on the tight side. Be sure that Dusty knows the cubic inch on your motor.

Dusty,

Patrick is really a good guy and this car is a long time coming. I predict some 9.1x's and "then" he'll put the big turbo on it.
 
Patrick,

I can't believe that that thing isn't flashing more. Maybe it is on the tight side. Be sure that Dusty knows the cubic inch on your motor.

Dusty,

Patrick is really a good guy and this car is a long time coming. I predict some 9.1x's and "then" he'll put the big turbo on it.

Thanks for the nice words John.

9.1x's would be fantastic!

Greg was checking my logs and it took about 4 seconds into my runs to hit the top of 1st gear and full boost. There was a bit of a fat spot while on the brake and Greg says that it would help to tune that out ,but it wouldn't give me another 1000 rpm on the stall that I need.

Once it gets revved up second and third are real quick.

I can't think of it being anything else.
 
I understand what you're saying, I had to leave with enough RPM in my old motor to get the car to leave and go - you could see the RPM accelaration in the graph - even though I was at max boost.

Did Greg comment on the converter tightness? He dealt with this quite a bit when they first started using the PTC's - really early on in the PTC development for the Buicks.
 
I have a ptc converter and it will go 4500 on the brake with a 71gts but with the 76gts i would say you need to go over 5000+ I have a 76 gts and the spool time on the brake is at least 6 seconds to 10 psi the 76 wheel is just oo heavy. I had a looser ptc converter but it was totally undriveable on the street, no rpm drop below 3000 rpm with a gear vender overdrive it makes it go 3000 rpm at all speeds, defeating the purpose of it totally, but spooled instanly. You have to either go BB turbo use nitrous or go smaller turbo, or make it a race car only.
 
Just took my TA block car out last night for the first time to the local 1/8 mile.

The launches are dismal, flash stall is around 3000 and will not make more than maybe 2# before time to leave,then the boost comes on reeeeeeeeaaaaal slow and first gear drags out to about half track.

The RPMs just will not come up fast enough,once it has reached 6000 or so and i shift it accelerates fast.

I have a PTC converter and I plan on sending it to be re-stalled. Just wondering what range I should tell them it needs to be in to get this turbo to spool.

This car runs like a dog with the converter thats in it now!:mad:
Flash is probably a lot higher than 3000. Mine is about 4800 at 25psi and i have way less engine. Your flash it what you are at after it shifts under load. Im guessing you need a flash of around 5600-5700 with your combo and shifting around 6700. You will need to throw a lot of boost at it to get the flash up once you get it back. Those converters are made to work with a llot of power thrown at them. Big difference in my car running 20-21 psi and then turning it to 25+ psi. Theres too much drop at low boost for it to work properly. You need a different stator and pump combo. You probably need an 18 or more than likely a 19 blade stator. Dusty should be able to take care of this. You have a small cube engine since its a TA and has the small bore. I hope its at least 9.0:1. You never mentioned exhaust a/r either. Nitrous would help:biggrin:
 
Flash is probably a lot higher than 3000. Mine is about 4800 at 25psi and i have way less engine. Your flash it what you are at after it shifts under load. Im guessing you need a flash of around 5600-5700 with your combo and shifting around 6700. You will need to throw a lot of boost at it to get the flash up once you get it back. Those converters are made to work with a llot of power thrown at them. Big difference in my car running 20-21 psi and then turning it to 25+ psi. Theres too much drop at low boost for it to work properly. You need a different stator and pump combo. You probably need an 18 or more than likely a 19 blade stator. Dusty should be able to take care of this. You have a small cube engine since its a TA and has the small bore. I hope its at least 9.0:1. You never mentioned exhaust a/r either. Nitrous would help:biggrin:

The a/r is .81. CI is 250

I can't put any boost to it if it only goes to 3000 RPM when I get on the T brake.Can't put any power to it if the motor won't rev up.

Flash stall is what it goes to at WOT against the brake.

Pulled the converter tonight (by myself what a PITA),and it looks to be a 10" converter...I know that cant be the right converter.

Damn Bill D. F'd me again!
 
I understand what you're saying, I had to leave with enough RPM in my old motor to get the car to leave and go - you could see the RPM accelaration in the graph - even though I was at max boost.

Did Greg comment on the converter tightness? He dealt with this quite a bit when they first started using the PTC's - really early on in the PTC development for the Buicks.


Yes he did ,thats what he was telling me as he looked at the logs,I would put on the brake,go wot,and it would go to 3000 and slooooooooowly climb maybe another 200 rpm long after the green light.

I need this car set up so I can leave on time.

Times are impressive if you can spend 30 seconds after green building boost,but they don't do you any good when reaction time counts.

I mean look at the TSM guys,they all have 9 second cars with 10 second reaction times in qualifying,then 10 second cars when they have to leave on time in eliminations.

That just won't work for me.
 
The 10" is too tight so we will allow as much as I can on trade and get you into the 9.5. The 10" would have worked with a different stator but is older tech from 5-6 years ago. Talk to you tomorrow.
 
Also be damned sure you dont have a wastegate problem.
Almost sounds like it bleeding off exhaust and takes that long to overcome
the leak
 
Also be damned sure you dont have a wastegate problem.
Almost sounds like it bleeding off exhaust and takes that long to overcome
the leak

I haven't thought of that. I have a 44mm TIAL external gate with an MSBC1 on it.

How exactly would I go about checking to see if that could also be part of the problem?

I don't have any exhaust leaks that I know of,and the gate seems pretty well sealed on its poppet flange.
 
IF its exhausted into the open air,Stuff a rag in the pipe and spool it up,
see if and how fast the rag blows out of the pipe.
IF there is no pressure against the top and it is being forced open
this may be a problem
 
I was under the assumption you already had a 9.5" Dusty will hook you up. Flash is not the rpm that it goes to on the brake. Thats the stall speed. My 16 blade goes to 3100 on the t-brake at zero boost/ vacuum. It flashes at 4700 under power. Its the stall speed at the highest load. Which occurs under full boost and is easily observed when a ratio change is made.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their input.

Dusty is taking care of it for me.He knows exactly what I am looking for.:D

John,give me a call sometime if you still have the #.
 
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