Speaker question

zam70

Lets dig a little deeper.Every speaker has an ohm rating.So,a 2- way has 2 different ohm values.A 3-way has 3 different ohm values and so on.These ohm values are made to all work together.Therfore a 2-way 6x9 may have a 6 ohm tweeter and a 4 ohm woofer so they can put out a decent ohm load on the power source and still give the woofer more power.A 3-way has to be ran in series between two speakers and then the two and the woofer in most cases are then paralleled together;Woofer at 4ohm,mid at 6ohm and tweet at 6 ohm.These ohm figures are only for example,but you get my point.The tweeter ,midrange is going to be getting less power anyway you look at. The woofer is definitly going to get LESS power in a 3-way upposed to a 2-way set-up.Thats what I meant.I shouldnt have had to break it down for you but you obviously need the electrical lesson.So next time check the facts before you think you know something and spout off!
 
hey man!

Hey,zam70,I saw your sub-box and stereo pics.I think you are an good craftsmen with wood.I like your design.The problem is the wood you built the box out of.You arent supposed to use"chip" board for a sub-box!You need to use atleast 3/4" medium density fiber board.It costs 4 times what that chip board cost for a reason!The only way to keep what you have and make it more rigid is to pull each sub and fiberglass the inside of each sub enclosure.Otherwise that box will fly to pieces in 3 years or less!You wont believe the sound difference once fiberglassed either!.If your enclosure is a sealed type.Seal it till the woofer can be pushed in and if it rises VERY slowly,it is sealed.I think fiberglassing is worth it to save the hard work you put into it originally.
 
Your theory is correct IF all speakers play the same frequency at the same time (parallel wired).
In a component/coax/triax system, they don't. You have a woofer playing its particular frequency range, the mid doing its thing and the tweeter playing it's frequency.
There fore - you have three speakers playing individually of each other. Altough they are hooked to the same source, they do not appear as a sum value of impedence.

If you have run into a component/coax/triax that is series wired, you have seen something I have not.

The differing impedence of the seperate speakers in a component system is for x-over design...when designed correctly utilizing the correct slope, interactive x-over points and regulating circuits, an INFINITE number of speakers could be used, all 4 ohm and NEVER present an end impedence load of less than 4 ohm to the amplifying device. It's all in the x-over design.
Even a normal speaker playing full range has its own natural roll off, when taken into account, it can be treated as a x-over component itself.

power does not divide (unless you want it to). Frequency does.

reply?
 
I know the facts of stereo design...I'll forgive you since you have no idea who I am.
But good info for those who are not "in the know"

That box in the pics was built out of crap wood I had laying around...more for mock up than anything. It's a very complicated box that I needed to test fit before final construction. It has long been in the garbage.

Shall we compare systems and install qualifications? This is getting fun.
 
Reply

All I can say is you are MAD!I am tired of beating a dead horse!Its like talking to a brick wall.Go to ANY car stereo shop and tell an installer what you are telling me and he will laugh his ASS off!I am trying to HELP you!Peace
 
Who are you?

I dont need to know who you are after talking to you and hearing what you say.If you are such a "GREAT" installer,then why am I having to tell you again and again?Do you know what that little thing is on the tweeter and the midrange?It is a crossover,bass blocker,what ever you want to call it.How about this.Very fast,Give me the wiring for a simple relay hookup for a remote wire without getting one and give mte the pin numbers for each wire!
 
switched lead from the deck (12v) to 86
ground 85 (85 & 86 can be reversed...makes no difference)
12v to 87
30 to the amp.


any other trivial questions? I can also do it blind folded....


how about reverse polarity locks....that ones simple too....
 
All in all...You would be laughed out of an install bay...
You have been misinformed. Find a new installer
 
OK

I can give you some respect for that.I figured I would start easy.Wont you tell me about passloc and passloc 2?What is it?
 
OEM security. IDs the key to the ecm.
GMs initial simple system was called the VATs system. It used a resistor in the key that could be easily bypassed by inserting the correct value resistor in between the wires contained in orage shrink wrap in the steering column.

WTF dude...give me a break.
 
Re: What

Originally posted by intercooled84GN
What have I done to get laughed out of an install bay?Tell me!


Your gross misunderstanding of x-over design.
 
Please

I have given you a break.YOU are the one doubting my knowledge.Like I said,just trying to help!The guy that posted wanted to know about 2-way and 3-way speakers,but you are not going to tell me that the power is NOT split btween the woofer,mid and tweet!Apparently you dont take too kind to strangers and or competition,WTF!.
 
Not at all. I'm just telling you - you are wrong. Nothing wrong with that...there's alot of misinformation flying around. I am a great dispeller of audio myths. Always have been, always will be.
Just trying to help out myself.

We DO agree that Coaxs are better though:D

Differening ideas...it's what make the world go around!
 
crossover

There is NO crossover DESIGN on a frikin 6x9!IT is a frikin cap dude!I know how a crossover works.I think we may be getting our signals crossed!We are talking about CHEAP 2-way and 3-way speakers here!
 
just to be fair - how many components are required for an 18db x-over? What are they? and in what oreder for a high pass?simple, basic....
 
Sorry

Sorry,answering a PM for someone.I am not going to answer that for your gratification!Besides,I asked you about a passloc,do you really want to continue asking stupid questions?By the way.Nakimichi head,Boston pros in rear,Mb Quarts in the front(seperates dummy).Precision power a1200 on 2 mbQuart pro 12" subs.Precision Power a600 on front components and Precision Power A600 on the Bostons in the rear.All amps are art series.And it sounds good as hell!Any questions?
 
my resume

I can do custom fiberglass and carbon fiber work.I can make anything you want out of either.I have done complete vinyl jobs with motorized amp racks.Being an installer is much more than putting your nose in a book.It is one of the few jobs where you have to be a carpenter,body man,custom fiberglass mold maker and wiring guru all in one.Not to mention a good jerry rigger too!I dont need to answer to you!We both know what it takes.I used to work @ Custom Car HI-FI in Winston-salem,NC.I have worked on Ferraris,NSXs and was the BMW specialists.So ###k off!
 
OH MY GOD - seriously....you should stay in the kiddie pool. The big one's to deep for you.

I innovated some of the techniques you use. Cripes. Before you start slamming an unknown internet guy - know your facts.

Here's mine -
Installed professionally for 15 years (now retired 4)
Top 5 finish - IASCA finals twice (SQ - the only 2 years I tried)
Technical writer for Car Stereo Review
Technical writer for Car Audio and Electronics
Product consultant for a/d/s
Product consultant for Orion (you know the DEQ30? I was the technical consultant on that. It originally was also suppose to have a X-over and time align ment as well)

If you want more - I can give you more...those are the ones I thought you might understand.

Fact is - you're wrong and you don't like it . Go to www.carsound.com and post your question there.
jsut trying to show you the truth
 
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