Should the main bearings look like this?

[mikeandjen]

Hey guys,

I bought this motor off the board and was only supposed to have about 1000 miles on it, figured I would replace the rear main seal before installing it and this is what the rear main bearing looks like.......is this bad?

Thanks for the help......






I need to know what you think before I put this motor in, it came from Chris from CK performance and was supposed to be a recent build.......

Thanks
Mike

 

[turboclam]

Is this a joke?

I don't think it ever had oil in it. To answer your question....uh...no. This is screaming rebuild! Take some pics of the rest of the bearings. What was on the bottom of the oil pan?

 

[blown okie]

thats exactly what bearings are supposed to look like.... when they're trashed... i would take the motor the rest of the way down & pray that a few bearings is the extent of the damage...best of luck.

 

[mikeandjen]

There isn't much in the bottom of the pan, just some minor shavings on the oil pickup screen.......Every main bearing is showing copper like this, even across......

The rod bearings aren't showing any copper at all? This doesn't make sense does it?

Also did a leakdown before I pulled the pan and got 10% across the board with the engine cold.......as it hasn't been installed yet.....

This sucks if a rebuild is needed Just odd how it doesn't show front or back bearing wear but all the way across each one!

Chris! I need help on this one buddy, I thought I read your a master mechanic, so some input would be great!

Mike

 

[gnxtc2]

What are the numbers on the bearings?

BillyT.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[mikeandjen]

The bearings say Clevite 77 MB-2491P .010

Here are the rest of the bearing pics......can I just replace the mains since the rods don 't show copper?











Thanks for the help guys, just hope I didn't buy a bad motor as I really don't know who to turn to to have it rebuilt

Mike

 

[mikeandjen]

Sorry forgot #3.....




This bearing doesn't seem to have the complete copper showing.....like the others!

Thanks
Mike

 

[boostingbuick]

Slow down. First you will need to have the crank mic'd to make sure if the correct size. And from the looks of the bearings I would think the crank will need to be turned down. It really looks like they were too tight. Does this have a girdle? And can I get some pics of the rod bearings please.

 

[Fat Nat]

There all shot whats the crank look like

 

[mikeandjen]

The interesting thing about it, the crank doesn't look scored too bad......

here are the pics a couple of rod bearings.....



And here is the pics of the crank itself.....





Thanks for the help.....

Mike

 

[gnxtc2]

The thrust main saddle shows signs of detonation/cap walk on the left side.

I would say that the crank needs to cut.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[mikeandjen]

Thats definately not good news

Hopefully Chris can give some insight on this as I believe he assembled the motor from what he said, and here is the add showing what was done to the motor and that he would stand behind it.....

1987 3.8 gn motor,.030" over with forged trw pistons,resized rods,crank 10/10,balanced,new flywheel,new gm timing cover/oil pump,timing chain,comp cams 206 206,new springs,lifters,rebuilt heads with ferrea hi flow valves,stock valve covers,stock throttle body,stock plenum,all brackets and accessories including new water pump,rebuilt alternator,ac compressor,power steering pump with lines,fuel lines that attach to frame,remanned ecm with turbo tweak chip(also have others made for the same combo from caspers)new ac delco cam sensor,crank sensorm tpsm02,coolantsensor,new delco module and coil pack,ta heavy duty rocker shafts(not roller),55 pound hi impedence injectors,postons ceramic coated headers,th 3" down pipe,n ew ac delco plugs and wires,new caspers harness,all brackets cables and bolts all original ,all sensors new,3.5 maf with translator plus ,kn filter,new flywheel,belt in location as well as all harware.motor has about 500 miles.runs excellent no issues at all.i will remove engine and put on the side.the engine is in ar and coming out tomorrow,new project going on.this thing is in excellent condition,ill stake my name and reputation on it.$2500 firm.drop it in and go.with the te45a turbo (turbo not included)the engine made 550 hp on the dyno and 635 lbsft.remember motor is complete and has all accessories ,pulleys etc.


Thanks all,

Mike

 

[turboclam]

Does the block have the stronger main caps? 500 hp is really pushing a stock block without help at the main caps. Does he know what he set the clearances at on the mains and rods? Was the motor hard to turn over? From the picture the crank looks OK, may just need a polish. All that bearing material had to go somewhere.

 

[mikeandjen]

The bottom of the pan just had some shavings in it, figured it was from a new motor, breakin......


The motor rolled over fine, just tough due to compression......

I don't know the clearances set on the motor, I am still waiting on a reply from Chris....


Thanks,
Mike

 

[JSTTA]

From the ad, crank was 10/10. looks like crank was tight on the mains. if it was an oiling problem, rods would have the same problem.

 

[wickedtt]

Who did you get this from? That really doesn't look like 500 miles on those bearing(R.I.P.).

 

[mikeandjen]

Thanks all for the help,

Chris replied, and I think we have a solution.....this was never meant to bash Chris as he didn't open up the motor and specifically check everything out.....and didn't have any suspect to......

I'll keep you all posted...


Hopefully all this works out and I can install this motor along with the new 6765dbb turbo and goodies to boot!

Thanks again,
Mike

 

[SMS]

I'd like to see the upper rod bearings too.

 

[87natl]

Crank is gonna have to be pulled and turned, sorry. Man, that stinks. I'd say the clearances weren't right. Start over........

 

[Pronto]

Look at it this way, the motor made those #s when it was hurting so if it's done right it will be as good or better...