replacing starter

J

Jackie grabos

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
when replacing the starter does the cross pipe and fuel lines have to be disconnected? got under the car and does not seem to be enough room to pull starter out. also, car has been sitting for a while and cranked engine to get oil in engine. reconnected ecm wire and will crank a few times and stop. noticed a electrical burning smell when this happened. now lights on dash and everything functions but will only crank a few times and stop. battery is new. guessing starter? looking to get replacement from oriely, is this a direct bolt on or do I have measure for fit at flywheel? thanks
 
STOP!!!!! if car has been sitting PULL PLUGS charge battery and crank for 30 seconds at a time for 4 or 5 cranks.
check voltage on bat then replace plugs (after checking fuel & pressure) and see how it responds.
How do plugs & fuel pressure look, how old is fuel?? Never underestimate the result of old fuel!!!
1 man's opinion???
 
Full lines don't have to come off (they're transmission cooling lines, actualy), the crossover does.

Make sure to wire brush the threads and coat them with a layer of nickle based antiseeze.
 
I have just replaced coil pack, pugs and wires. battery is new. I bought new fpr and replaced turbo gasket, had a leak and exhaust was leaking into engine bay. when I put every thing back together I cranked the car for 30-40 sec with ecm unplugged. it cranked fine. when I pluged it back in and cranked it tried to start but would crank slow and stop. I smelled something electrical burning and saw small ammt of smoke in engine bay. it will crank now but slow and stop, was guessing it was the starter going bad. it looks old.
 
sorry to sound dumb but could you clarify which threads to coat? the mounting bolts for the starter or cross over pipe?
 
The crossover bolts (actually any exhaust bolt that gets hot).

The starter bolts will have a protective layer of oil on them.
 
i didn't have to take the exhaust crossover off my car to remove or replace the stock starter- not lots of room, but enough to get it out and back in..
my car is an 84, so yours may be different.
 
Since you had the plug wires and coil pack off I would verify the plug wire sequence. Cranking fast then slow indicates to me the plug wires may be out of order. Just my opinion
 
the smell of something electrical burning smell could be coming from some wire grounding out to frame etc.I would check all wires going to the starter to make shore is not touching anything or rubbing on anything,hope this helps
 
earlbrown said:
Full lines don't have to come off (they're transmission cooling lines, actualy), the crossover does.

Make sure to wire brush the threads and coat them with a layer of nickle based antiseeze.
Click to expand...


I'm sort of shocked you let this part of the OP's original comment slide Earl = "cranked engine to get oil in engine. reconnected ecm wire"
You're getting soft for the holiday season I see! :D

This must be the third post this week about someone picking up a TR that has "sat" for an extended period of time - and the method of engine oil priming is cranking.
On the bright side - it may be good for some engine parts suppliers after the holidays!
 
Check to see if the batt neg cable is on, clean, and tite to the block. [On the bolt you took out to change the turbo gasket.]
If it's not, look at the body grd strap at the batt. melted? Is the pos cable melted onto the downpipe?
Instead of throwing parts at it, how about a little t/s??
IE: Voltage drop testing on the starter, cleaning all grounds, checking fuel psi.
Slow cranking could be the cyls are filling w/ fuel. If so, check the oil level, quit cranking it, and find out wtf is going on. [Ignoring that issue, [if it exists], can/will eventually put a rod or 2 outside the confines of the block.]:eek:
 
I have checked the wiring and it looks good. going to check connections next and be sure before I start taking things apart. I did change the fpr and have not been able to set pressure yet. I don't believe this would stop it from cranking. wouldn't a bad starter be having theses symptoms of slow cranking and eventually will not crank at all? also, car had not been started for several weeks, was not setting for months. when looking for my car I was told to crank the car if it sits for while before starting. this guy had several nationals in various conditions that he was restoring. what is the right way to oil prime?
 
" wouldn't a bad starter be having theses symptoms of slow cranking and eventually will not crank at all?"

What I mentioned about volt drop testing, applies here.
 
Heisenberg said:
I'm sort of shocked you let this part of the OP's original comment slide Earl = "cranked engine to get oil in engine. reconnected ecm wire"
You're getting soft for the holiday season I see! :D
Click to expand...


If you have a good oil pump it's not a problem at all.I don't even disconnect my ECM during an oil change. :)

Chuck Leeper said:
Instead of throwing parts at it, how about a little t/s??
Click to expand...


That's just crazy talk.
 
earlbrown said:
If you have a good oil pump it's not a problem at all.I don't even disconnect my ECM during an oil change. :)
That's just crazy talk.
Click to expand...


Wow - you live dangerously Earl.
Now - about that orange wire? What is is it fer? :D

I'm with ya on the good oil pump. "If" being the operating word in your reply.
I think newer folks hesitate to prime or oil check via the cam sensor hole - since they think there is so much hocus pocus with the cam sensor timing.
And it's one of the easier things to set on these cars - once you get the right method.
And then of course - if you removed the cam sensor - you'd find out you probably want to modernize that while it's out - and the process continues.
 
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