Cuts out while rolling into boost

Norman C Shibley

25 year ASE master tech
Check the crank sensor. That was the issue for me. If it starts up right after it cuts out that can be the problem. It started cutting off every once in a while last summer. This summer it cut off every time after thirty minutes of driving. The car cut off twice going into boost you'd can easly think it was a maf issue cause it fluttered and cut out. It's just a list of diagnostics you have to perform i.e; battery cables to starter, engine grounds, condition of ecu orange wire, harness seated properly to ecu, chip seated properly in ecu, tap maf no stumble not a maf issue, ign coil check ohms, module, fuel pressure blips or dips for fuel pump inconsistencies issues, cam sensor and crank sensor. Start with least difficult to difficult. If it happens to be the crank sensor and you have a new style crank sensor bracket on your engine, its an easy fix.
I think that's where I'm at because now it is a complete stall and not just a nose dive while rolling into boost. Had to restart it like 6 times to drive 15 miles lol. But of course when you bring it back to put a scope on the sensor, it won't do it again lol. It will restart after about 30 seconds and actually keep going for a few before it cuts out again. And if i remember correctly these cars will still run if it's the cam cutting out. Does anybody finally make modules and coil packs that actually last more than a couple years? Thanks again


Active Member
This is why many owners switch to the TR6 setup. It’s almost impossible to locate any OEM versions of the Ignition Module. The replacement versions use different electronic components as the OEM versions are no longer available.


Well-Known Member
My brother car was cutting out rolling into it.. finally one day with it idling i wiggled the coil pack wires up & down the car shut off,,, I then removed the plug in cover back or off the coil pack plug in receptacle & wiggled each one at a time & the pink or white wire shut it off again... i respliced & soldered the harness at that point from Caspers....easy fix to a long term headache..... Now my car was the crank sensor with similar but not exact symptoms. (got so bad that last time it threw crazy codes on the scanmaster as I was trying to crank it....(so it was the crank sensor) So hopefully youre in the neighborhood.. But the wire wiggling is quick & easy checks...also the ecm wires... you can drop it from the kick panel & wiggle away...same with the ecm under hood wire...& coil pack wires.... can do all 3 in 15 minutes.


Daily Driver
There's another connector behind the glove box door that's easy to access and wiggle the wires on both sides of it. Feeds the power to the ECM from the fuse panel along with other important signals. Worth a wiggle.
Foam covered large connector you can't miss it. After you check the ECM connectors themselves of course.


New Member
I may have missed it but have you verified the grounds on the back of the passenger head? They can get stringy if the engine was ever pulled. I added new connectors and attached them to the intake instead. I also added additional grounds which improved the idle and smoothness of the engine. I had intermittent flickering on the scan master prior to doing this and a no start condition once.