Removal exhaust manifold bolts

Sal Lubrano

Active Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
I have to pull off a set of exhaust headers which the bolts are really rusted and look like they have never been off in 20 years. Other than soaking them in good penetrating oil which would be my best bet.
1. Run the motor heating the head then break bolts free.
2. Use torch on the bolts with a cold motor.
3. Run motor heating the head and use torch on bolts.
Really don't want these bolts to break in the head. It will be a bad day if they do.
 
never ever experienced a broken header bolt in the head on a v6 buick , its just not a problem like it is on old pontiac v8s
the thing to be concered about is the little m8x 1.25 nuts on the little stud ends that the alt brackets and dip tube attach and on original driver cars the crossover bolts can and do break and can make you sorry you ever messed with them and usually require some soaking with penetrating oil and use antiseize on reinstall , if the crossover bolts do break just punch the nut out from the header flange (or drill outt )and use then a nut and bolt for reinstall , if the header bolt stud end breaks off the others are the same so just use the broken one in a hole that doesent need the studded end.,

fyi for tools the nuts are 13mm metric , the header to head bolts are 9/16 standard , crossover bolts are 15mm
 
+1. Ive remove hundreds and never broke one. Ive had use alternate sockets since the head of the bolt was degraded from oxidation a couple times. 9/16 6 point deep socket for all or a box wrench on the top row. They are a 3/8-16 thread and crack loose very easy.
 
You guys make it sound too easy which it is not . Spent all day trying to get end top stud nut off drivers side ,still not off . Just can't get a socket on it , steering shaft , shifter rod in the way. Deep socket too long and regular socket too short because of long stud . Would take less time to pull the engine . Frustrated !!
 
If the correct size box end wrench is too loose to remove the degraded nut without rounding it you can try the following, but it requires you buy/sacrifice an open end wrench:

Take whichever size (metric or standard) open end wrench that is the closest but too small and gradually file or grind the inside. Keep grinding and checking until it barely fits but you have to tap in on with a hammer. Then you can use a torque bar to work it until it breaks loose without rounding/stripping the outside of the nut.
 
You guys make it sound too easy which it is not . Spent all day trying to get end top stud nut off drivers side ,still not off . Just can't get a socket on it , steering shaft , shifter rod in the way. Deep socket too long and regular socket too short because of long stud . Would take less time to pull the engine . Frustrated !!

The trick is to cut those stupid threaded studs off the fasteners that don't need them. Once you're down to just the three that need them, it's easy peasy to R&R the headers after that.

Not to mention the wonders that is a thin layer of anti-seeze for future removal. Bonus points if all the fasteners get replaced with stainless steel.
 
Thks. I am going to try the old stud removal method. I can thread 2 nuts on the stud and hopefully turn it off . I don't have anything to cut the stud in place .
 
I’m not sure what your problem is every turbo Buick that I’ve had to take the header bolts off have been cake Work! They might look rusted to hell but they should not by any means be seized to the head. The torque on them are about 40lbs. The only bitch is the bolt holding the dipstick tube that one has rusted on the stud and twisted the dip stick bracket a few times. The manifold bolts I usually get blasted and hold on to those. I find them better than the ARP bolts to use cause of the lock washers on them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The bolts are actually not rusty . My car came with the optional under car oil undercoating system . No rust issues .
 
That's not an option. All Turbo Buicks automatically undercoat the car with oil.
 
Thks. I am going to try the old stud removal method. I can thread 2 nuts on the stud and hopefully turn it off . I don't have anything to cut the stud in place .

In that case, make sure you get metric nuts.

..and if they really piss you off, I made a bunch of the kits last week (even comes with free anti-seeze! :) )
s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg
 
Is the nut that seized, or is it turning the whole manifold bolt?
I've seen some nasty looking nuts and studs on Buick exhaust manifolds bolts but have never broke one. But I have had more than a few where the nut has a tighter grip on the stud than the bolt has on the cylinder head and that is a headache.
If that's the case you may have to modify a wrench to get in there and hold the bolt while you turn the nut.
 
Is the nut that seized, or is it turning the whole manifold bolt?
I've seen some nasty looking nuts and studs on Buick exhaust manifolds bolts but have never broke one. But I have had more than a few where the nut has a tighter grip on the stud than the bolt has on the cylinder head and that is a headache.
If that's the case you may have to modify a wrench to get in there and hold the bolt while you turn the nut.
Thks guys ,got it off . Once I was able to break the stud lose I could turn it out with my fingers . Used modified wrench . Now on to the cross over pipe . Lots of penetrating oil is key . Again Thks .
 
Might want to snug the headers back down before you start messing with the X-over bolts.
 
Top