Rebuilt engine, ghetto-style

I got it these cars are part of the family
And we don't need handmedown
I have a set of rods and stock flexplate you PM if you want
 
nothing in that engine looks too out of the ordinary for a rebuild.. cranks get welded on and rods get ground on to balance things.. sometimes a single rod is replaced with one that looks different than the rest but is functionally identical. the only part i don't really care for is adding weight to the flexplate, which only serves to make life more difficult if you ever need to replace it for whatever reason..

honestly, i'd take everything in to a machine shop and have it looked at. maybe get the balance redone with a different flexplate.
Taking a carbide to the front crank pin arm to remove weight will only weaken it. I understand that the ballast cast into the rod caps are meant for balance, but not to be removed almost completely. The crank(AFAIK) wasn't meant to be balanced at 50%, which it why the bob weights are not as large as an aftermarket piece. IMO, this was a hack job, the person who performed the balance clearly showed that they didn't know these engines were balanced at 36.6%. I also feel that the weld job was not acceptable, I really don't feel that is safe with cast iron, especially to pile that much material in one spot and all the heat. Welding on the flex plate along the ring gear is a hack job, they could have at least added a weight instead of blobs of weld.

Also, the different rod was added after it probably spun a bearing and destroyed the original rod. Different rod bolts too, all the other ones have been ground down to reduce weight.

For the power I want, Im just going to start fresh to keep the LC2.
 
There is always someone who has it worse. Don't know his name here but poor guy had some shop(VA perf?) hack up his engine very similar to this, except much more errors and hacks. Fully forged internals, lots of expensive parts.
 
All these great people willing to help you. Before you know it you might be able to piece together a motor I hope. If you haven't already make a list of all parts needed and post them you might not need all that much. What are we up to now crank. rods, bolts, flywheel? I understand wanting it done the correct way.
 
I have a set of .030 over trw forged pistons. I have also have a 212/212 cam, timing chain, adjustable pushrods, arp head bolts. All came out of a 3k mile build.
 
There is always someone who has it worse. Don't know his name here but poor guy had some shop(VA perf?) hack up his engine very similar to this, except much more errors and hacks. Fully forged internals, lots of expensive parts.
The would be me and the shops name is VA Speed in Virginia Beach. I put pics all over the facebook page. It is not my car. Hopefully we can get it right for him.
 
So here are some items to help.

I have a set of good rods with stock bolts which are perfectly fine for your app

I have a crank that I believe is 10/10. You can have it polished to 20/20 with no issues at all. I have used them plenty in mid 11 sec cars.

All this should be able to be completed with only a couple hundred bucks at most.

You will need pistons and go from there.

Gaskets are fairly cheap if going with stockers.

No need for ARP hardware for your stocker style setup.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks for the offer! But...

IMG_20150926_122459260_HDR.jpg
 
Have you spoked with the previous owner on this issue? I know you bought it last year, but it looks like he screwed you. Is he still a member here?
 
Nothing to update in this thread. Look for a new build thread early next year.

Torque converter failed in my pick up truck so I'm dealing with that now. Had to take it apart again to clean all the tc clutch material out of the trans.
 
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