Rebuilt engine, ghetto-style

34blazer

Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
When I bought the GN last year, the previous owner stated that the engine had been rebuilt back to stock specs, told me his father had it rebuilt about 5 years ago. Had some oil leaks I could easily address, but overall, clean oil on the dipstick and it seemed to run pretty smooth. Found the stock BRF trans was smoked, so this year I spent most of my savings on a builders kit from Dave Husek, and just finished up assembling the trans last weekend. I figured that pulling the engine would be a good idea to completely replace all the gaskets and perform some little things like pocket work on the heads, and Earl's oil pump and housing modification. Well, today I started to tear down the engine and it looked like a stock rebuild once I pulled the valve covers off, then pulled the intake to find some surface rust on the pushrods, and they were installed upside down, the burnished area usually found from some friction in the head was now pointed toward the lifters. Let's back up a bit, after I found the toasted trans, I had a bad feeling that the engine may not have a quality rebuild, and told myself that if I find anything wrong, it would be bad enough to warrant another complete rebuild. Well, that hunch became a reality.
trashOP.jpg

found a bunch of garbage and sludge in the bottom of the pan, which I threw on the ground when I saw all this crap. Then....
bobweld.jpg

Saw all this F'in welding and grinding. Apparently the "builder" tried to balance the assembly at 50%. There's even globs of weld on the freakin flywheel to add weight to the heavy side.
bobweldpart.jpg


More filling with weld, and they even ground the pad on the rod caps down. Three different type of rod bolts too, and they did some grinding on those too.
bobweldgrnd.jpg


more welding and grinding on the front bob
capgrndnogrnd.jpg

Notice the different rod bolts, and the grinding wheel marks. Also notice this rod hasn't been "modified." This tells me that the engine was rebuilt twice, first time all the hacking and welding, and the second time was to replace a rod, which was probably due to a spun bearing chewing up the old rod.
helicoil.jpg


notice the helicoil in the cover, Ive found cross-threaded bolts, missing, wrong placement, you name it, this engine is thoroughly Fscked. I also noticed there is a double roller timing chain, didn't take the cover off but im willing to bet that some of the trash in the pan is part of the chain tensioner.


So now Im down to less than $1K, with a boat anchor and a 2500 dollar transmission. I could piece together a replacement, but they way I see it, a basic rebuild is going to cost at least 2500. Theres other stuff that's messed up too, this is the biggest part, though. My hopes of buying my first born son a Jr. Dragster next year are most likely not going to happen. I could buy a used crank, and rods, and pistons(30 over), but I don't want to throw it in the block and plastigage it. I don't want to re torque a set of rod bolts or mains not knowing how many times they have been torqued, and not know how much stretch has been placed on the bolt. If I buy knew, chances are everything will need a resize or line bore. So, the way I see it, is find someone fairly local that has an LC2 short block in good shape, and buy it. Or LZ9 swap, which I told myself last weekend if this engine was crap, it's getting bagged and a swap will take its place.
 
Sorry for the misfortune, but the short block idea would be far cheaper than the repair/rebuild.
 
Whatsa LZ9 swap?

Sucks to hear about your engine? Im a little worried about mine if the ticking noise isnt the flywheel.
 
Haha. 3yr old Son got a hold of the phone while I was reading this thread. So that post was just gibberish.
 
Tweeker probably used the same scale on his meth that he used to balance them rods!
That sucks.
 
Don't know where you are, butt Jeff Rand in cali had a short block for sale under 2k if I remember correctly. Check south west section a few pages in.
 
Have you considered taking apart what you have and rebuilding it?

You will need the help of a real machinist but you may be able to save what you have there for a stock build.
 
No way, not with all the grinding and welding, this crank is toast. Just going to save and do it right
 
Don't worry about it lol. I'm considering other options as well. I can tell you that the crank, rods, and maybe the slugs will need replaced. I'm not sure what the oil pump and housing look like after all the trash has went through the engine. Not sure if the block was bored with a torque plate, but it's already 30 over. Not sure of the line bore. After I saw the mess I just stuffed it in the storage room and walked away, well, after I took pictures. Yesterday I priced out the labor plus some contingencies from a local machine shop, highly spoken of too. The bill is going to be up there for sure. So I'm just going to let it sit while I decide what to do. Thanks Mr. West!
 
Well then take the block to the machinist and see if you can clean up the bores and use another set of .030 over pistons.

If you need a block after all we can scrounge up something. I have a line on a stock crank turned down .010 as well, ready to go. I will get back with you on that.

In case you have not noticed , you are not allowed to give up yet.
 
I am not giving up. If I have to dump money to repair a hack job, I want to do it my way, and have it built the way I want. The amount of money that will be needed will have to be saved, which is why I hit the pause button.
 
nothing in that engine looks too out of the ordinary for a rebuild.. cranks get welded on and rods get ground on to balance things.. sometimes a single rod is replaced with one that looks different than the rest but is functionally identical. the only part i don't really care for is adding weight to the flexplate, which only serves to make life more difficult if you ever need to replace it for whatever reason..

honestly, i'd take everything in to a machine shop and have it looked at. maybe get the balance redone with a different flexplate.
 
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