Rear quarter panel buckle

well.........

a while back ,I would of done the changes my self, now ( older) (and dumber) a new housing from quick perf bare, any width, is $345
you could recoup your expenses buy selling your stock width.
641 751 8060 is the PH # for quick perf. in Iowa I think.
the pics of the notch in progress in the "parts for sale" is mine, so can't tell you how much yet, I do have 13"between the frame and the wheel lip.
will be able to tell you next week, as will have back rolling then.






Crzn57, you say your 9" is 2 inches narrower overall,

i am thinking about doing this as well My reasoning is for the wheels that i want to run as well. they only come in 4" backspacing but i want to keep the style of wheels.

with 2" shorter, 1" on each side, is there still enough room between the frame rail and the back of the brakes???

i cannot think of any other way to get my 4" backspaced wheels at act as is they are 5.5" backspaced.

do you guys have any recommendation on how i should make a jig so that i can get by brackets welded on properly when i do put the 9" together?
 
you say you have 13" from the outside of your notched frame to the axle flange that the wheel bolts onto? If that is the case, then narrowing 1-1.5" each side shouldn't be any problem.

Please do post more info once you do have your car back.

Thanks alot
 
no-no

13" from frame to inner wheel well lip,
 

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Huh, that seems a tad small if it's from notched frame to lip. The 325 is a 13" section width but I guess those pics of Dusty's car does look like it's flush with the fender lip.

Any pics of a 325 near a notched frame??
And are you guys leaving any outside frame or notching it to the weld?

Dusty that car is a madd sleeper, damn 7.7 with Grandpa's grocery getter is moving the goods. ;)
 
My frame is notched to the lip of the wheel well. You have to be carefull with the tire rubbing on the inner upper portion of the wheel well. When the car squats and launches, the tire could come in contact.

I know on Cal's old car, the wheel wells were stretched 1" inboard (mini tubbed). Alot of guys hammer the wheel well to stretch this area. The Buick race classes don't allow mini tubs, hence they get out the hammer (remember back about Roy/Laz's car fiasco in TSE).

On my car, I run 325/50-15 M/T on a 15x10 Draglite 5.5" backspace with a 1/2" spacer. I have a stock width Moser 12 bolt.

You put the same tire on a 15x11 rim, the foot print get wider. Alot of the 10.5 class guys even use 12" rims.

See the difference between my car and Dusty's on the tire bulge.

P3230079.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Huh, that seems a tad small if it's from notched frame to lip. The 325 is a 13" section width but I guess those pics of Dusty's car does look like it's flush with the fender lip.

Any pics of a 325 near a notched frame??
And are you guys leaving any outside frame or notching it to the weld?

Dusty that car is a madd sleeper, damn 7.7 with Grandpa's grocery getter is moving the goods. ;)

Sleeper is what I was shooting for;)

I notched my frame all the way back to where there was 1/8" of a lip left on the frame. I then cut the new metal to fit inside this lip.

The 325 is definately a wide tire but like Billy said, my 11" wheel makes it even wider. I have just enough room between the tire and frame to keep it from rubbing the frame.
 
is there anyway to get photos of how close the clearence is? WOW only 1/8" lip left, it probably looks like a 1/4" piece of plate steel back there.
 
here are Melissa's 325s on her GN .. we have a 3/8ths spacer on a 5.5 backspace :cool: ya Mr Hammertime on the inner wheel wells :eek:
 

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is there anyway to get photos of how close the clearence is? WOW only 1/8" lip left, it probably looks like a 1/4" piece of plate steel back there.


I don't have any pics of how close it is. I just leave enough room for no rubbing. I like to tuck the tire in as close as I can. It does look real thin but not as thin as I've seen on other cars. I have seen some who cut everything off but the backside and use roll cage bracing on the inside for integrity.
 
Dusty, what type of wheels are those? also what do you feel about geting rims widened?? good idea, bad idea??
 
My rims are Bogart's.

As long as the guy doing the machine work knows what he's doing, nothing is wrong with widening. You just need to know what backspacing is needed for the wheel to fit properly.
 
how much more of a contact patch do you think you gain with running 11" rims compared to 10" rims?
 
how much more of a contact patch do you think you gain with running 11" rims compared to 10" rims?

Not a lot. Most guys in my class run a 10" wheel. A friends Nitrous big block has been 1.22 60' on stock suspension with a radial on a 10" wheel.
 
Dennis. Kevin Williams the engraver dude made it for me. You should be able to get it thru Mark Huffman. If not PM me.
 
Grumpy, what size rims are you running on Mellisa's car? Would it be correct to say that 5.5" backspacing minus .375" spacer, would be equal to 5.125" backspacing???
 
Grumpy, what size rims are you running on Mellisa's car? Would it be correct to say that 5.5" backspacing minus .375" spacer, would be equal to 5.125" backspacing???

yes...we are like Dusty tryin to get the tire in as far as we can :cool: 15X10s 5.5 backspace with a spacer..
 
I am bringthis thread back from the dead because i want to get a couple more questions answered before i commit myself to this project.

Currently, i took the frame off the car and it is still sitting of the body.

Would it be perfectly fine to do the notch right now without the weight of the body bearing down on the frame?

I have done the lower control arm braces and am going to build a cross member to connect the lower control arms as well, but would it still be safe to do the notch now, or should i weld in the cage first???

Steve and GNTtc2, how much did you boys nothc into the frame to fit you 325's in there???


should i use 3/16 or 1/4" plate for the notch as well? I am trying to be as weight concious as possible, so i am leaning towards 3/16's

Thanks guys

Adrian
 
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