Trianulating The rear is a good idea but the metric chasis had a tremendous stress where the rear spring perches are. You can run back bars off of the cage to tie in the rears but not tieing into the spring pearches is the best and most supproting option. If you don't believe me look at the dirt track chasis based on the GM metric frame.
Rear quarter panel buckle
- Thread starter karolko
- Start date
that sounds like good reasoning, but why do guys bend their back bars? i would think that a straight shot back would be the best option. I understand that it would cross right through the middle of the opera window, but strength wise, it would be more stout.
Also GNXtc2, you mentioned body mounts... following up on that idea, wouldn't you want body mounts that are soft and can absorb some of the flex that might be given off from the frame and into the body? so for example, run factory rubber and not polyurathane body mounts? does this make sense, or am i off my rocker?
You guys have clear up alot of things for me, an dnow i know what to do.
You guys have clear up alot of things for me, an dnow i know what to do.
I notched mine all the way to the inside rail. I used 1 1/4" rollcage tubing I had left over bent to the shape of the rail on the inside to put the strength back in the rail. I used 3/16" plate on the outside.
I also added a TRZ Anti roll bar which also adds strenght. For the upper bars I just welded thick washers to re enforce the holes. The lowers I did it similar to what someone already mentioned with 1 5/8" tubing going across the car in front of the diff. I then ran two short pieces to the front of the pockets.
I do have a cage and my 60's are in the mid 1.3's for now. No problems at all.
We'll be doing a few more G body's over the next few months so I should have some good pics. after that.
I also added a TRZ Anti roll bar which also adds strenght. For the upper bars I just welded thick washers to re enforce the holes. The lowers I did it similar to what someone already mentioned with 1 5/8" tubing going across the car in front of the diff. I then ran two short pieces to the front of the pockets.
I do have a cage and my 60's are in the mid 1.3's for now. No problems at all.
We'll be doing a few more G body's over the next few months so I should have some good pics. after that.
I don't think I mentioned anything about body mounts. Since we're on the subject, I have the stock body mounts. I also added #5 which is commonly known as the GNX bushing. My car was missing #3 & #4 mounts which I've added.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
The roll cage MUST tie into the rear spring perch. You can run a bar from the main hoop up to this rear down bar to triangulate the area for extra strength.
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
What size tire are you talking here? The guys notching frames are looking to fit 10 inch wheels with at least a 28x10.5 on the car without it sticking out of the fenderwell. Notching the frame is the only way to accomplish this. The problem is the frame gets too thin in the area around the lower control arm frame mount. The HR braces strenghten the area to keep the mount from pushing into the floorboard but do nothing for the frame flexing up and down from the rear springs back. I would not notch a frame without putting a roll cage in the car and tieing the cage into the rear suspension points.
i want to put 325/50/15 on the back so a notch is a must, and i also want them to stay tucked under the wheel well, so i plan on rolling the fenders.
In all respects, a will be putting in a 6 point cage. i know the car is going to be a low 10 second car, so i will need it for the track anyways.
Since mentione, i have spent some time trying to find some good pictures of where to weld the roll cage to the spring perch. is there any specific place to put the bars, or is anywhere on the perch is fine???
I can see the functionality of putting the cross bar infront of the axle in, but what about the rear cross bar behind the axle??? is that also used for strengthening the frame. My concern is weight savings, all of us spent so much time taking weight out, so putting extra braces in that will not do much seems counter productive to me.
Thanks guys
In all respects, a will be putting in a 6 point cage. i know the car is going to be a low 10 second car, so i will need it for the track anyways.
Since mentione, i have spent some time trying to find some good pictures of where to weld the roll cage to the spring perch. is there any specific place to put the bars, or is anywhere on the perch is fine???
I can see the functionality of putting the cross bar infront of the axle in, but what about the rear cross bar behind the axle??? is that also used for strengthening the frame. My concern is weight savings, all of us spent so much time taking weight out, so putting extra braces in that will not do much seems counter productive to me.
Thanks guys
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Here's how it did a cross bar and tied the cage into the spring perch.
Also how my car sits on a 325/50. 15x11 wheel with 6 inch backspace.
Also how my car sits on a 325/50. 15x11 wheel with 6 inch backspace.
all i can say is Yeahhhhhhhhh baby!!!!!!!!!!
I too am going to be running a 9 inch rear end. did you fabricate you own bracketry on the 9" housing or did you purchase the housing complete. Also with you ford 9" are you running drum brakes or disc's?
i also noticed you are running a wolfe bar. i currently have a atr bar, but have yet to test it at all (long story) should i upgrade or will it suffice?
I too am going to be running a 9 inch rear end. did you fabricate you own bracketry on the 9" housing or did you purchase the housing complete. Also with you ford 9" are you running drum brakes or disc's?
i also noticed you are running a wolfe bar. i currently have a atr bar, but have yet to test it at all (long story) should i upgrade or will it suffice?
And one more question, you are running 6" backspacing on your 11" rims, would that be the equivalent of running 5" backspacing on a 5" rim? i am looking to get the exact same look as you with having those tires just nice and snug against the fender well. That just looks mean!!!
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
The 9" is a bolt in from Quick Performance and it has their budget disk brakes. I bought the rear from another racer. The brakes use a caliper identical to the front caliper on the g-bodies. I planned to upgrade the brakes but it stops so well I don't want to mess with them. They work as well as any racing brakes I've used.
I'd upgrade to a Wolfe or HR bar no matter how fast you planned to go. They're worlds away from the old ATR style.
A 5.5 bs on a 10" wheel will look the same.
your wolfe bar ......
isn't connected is it? (wild angle) I did see mounts on the rear housing.
I am using the QP rear also, but 2in narrower over all, with disc from QP,
that way all my rims I had for GN rear will work on this set up.
thats for the pics!
isn't connected is it? (wild angle) I did see mounts on the rear housing.
I am using the QP rear also, but 2in narrower over all, with disc from QP,
that way all my rims I had for GN rear will work on this set up.
thats for the pics!
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Wolfe bar isn't connected. Also no driveshaft in the pic so the pinion angle is very high.
Crzn57, you say your 9" is 2 inches narrower overall,
i am thinking about doing this as well My reasoning is for the wheels that i want to run as well. they only come in 4" backspacing but i want to keep the style of wheels.
with 2" shorter, 1" on each side, is there still enough room between the frame rail and the back of the brakes???
i cannot think of any other way to get my 4" backspaced wheels at act as is they are 5.5" backspaced.
do you guys have any recommendation on how i should make a jig so that i can get by brackets welded on properly when i do put the 9" together?
i am thinking about doing this as well My reasoning is for the wheels that i want to run as well. they only come in 4" backspacing but i want to keep the style of wheels.
with 2" shorter, 1" on each side, is there still enough room between the frame rail and the back of the brakes???
i cannot think of any other way to get my 4" backspaced wheels at act as is they are 5.5" backspaced.
do you guys have any recommendation on how i should make a jig so that i can get by brackets welded on properly when i do put the 9" together?
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Dusty,
That car is bad a**!
Love it!
Thanks. I seen some pics of a bad a$$ ride from out your way not long ago
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Couple more 325 pics
