Rear Main Seal Issue

[Koshe]

So, I've been needing a rear main seal replacement for like 3 months.

I've been searching for some clear answers for a hot minute and I just can't seem to find my answer. Every link is about how to do it, what tools I'll need, etc, etc. So...

Neoprene and Rubber? Aren't they the same thing?

GBody and Kirban's websites sell them and they clearly state "Neoprene" Other sites like Highway Stars, Summit, and leading auto parts stores sell ones that say rubber. When I looked up Neoprene on Google it says that its synthetic rubber.

Sooooo, the #1 question is... Is there an actual difference between neoprene and rubber?

Also, on the Kirban website it says, "When purchasing this item you may also want to consider OIL PAN GASKET #6771 and Front Timing Case Cover One-Piece NEOPRENE FRONT SEAL #6549."

The Oil Pan gasket is a given, but do I need to purchase the Timing Case seal as well? Is there anything else I might need?

Thanks in advance, sorry if this is a re-post, but TB's search is just poo... Or maybe I just need to learn how to use it.

 

[Jay J]

The neoprene will work fine. How many miles do you have on the car? If it is high mileage, you may want to do the timing chain while in there, and then you would need the timing cover gasket set and the new neoprene front seal (to replace the old rope seal) for the crank hub...

 

[Koshe]

The neoprene will work fine. How many miles do you have on the car? If it is high mileage, you may want to do the timing chain while in there, and then you would need the timing cover gasket set and the new neoprene front seal (to replace the old rope seal) for the crank hub...

That still doesn't answer my main question

The reason I ask is because I can get a Fel-Pro gasket from any parts store in my location.

But if I order the more expensive "Neoprene" seal; which looks identical to the rubber ones in the pictures I might add... If in the event its just some uppity way of saying rubber, I'd need to wait a week, double the price, and add shipping.

No offense to any of the retailers, but I don't want to be conned because I don't understand the definition of a word.

 

[Jay J]

Either the "rubber" or neoprene will work fine. Either one is better than the old-style rope seal that came with the car.

 

[Pronto]

Most people prefer a cork pan gasket too.

 

[Koshe]

Thanks Jay J

Thanks Pronto

 

[GNONYX]

While you do plan on replacing the rear end seal, and if you haven't done it already, you might want to replace the front seal, timing chain, and cam button, since the original cam sprocket teeth is cover with nylon.

Most would said TA Performance timing chain replacement, but I don't know if you're going to a single or double roller chain.
http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=186

You can get most of the parts from NAPA for a reasonable price

New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675
$4.84

Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_019197467
$15.14

Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
$9.99
You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made and not ripe, just make sure it's clean on both ends.

Here are some site on how to replace the rear end seal, but keep in mind the pictures showing is for a TTA and not an GN, and you don't have to lift the motor in order to remove the oil pan cover. Most of the info is for a TTA, but it gives you some ideas.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
http://home.comcast.net/~tta1456/rearmain.htm

This is some info to start your engine journey, and Definitely ask questions when in doubt

 

[Koshe]

Awesome information GNONYX, thanks a lot.

 

[klmnla]

I just received my Felpro BS 40613 rear main seal and a new cork gasket. Im not really sure if its rubber or neoprene either?

 

[whitehot1]

You might want to look at the oil pump pickup tube screen to see if it has any blockage from wear of the timing chain sprocket,it may need to be replaced also.

I usually buy the rear main seal from autozone it's a Fel-Pro rubber seal.

 

[GNONYX]

There will be many questions you will be asking as you go along with the procedure of removing and installing the new parts.
Many will chime as to their way of priming the oil pump for oil pressure; this is my way if you choice to do so:
I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter and installed the oil filter and then fill 3 quarts oil in the oil pan. Then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose; you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT START THE ENGINE, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and turn it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653 Also read the PDF of Installation

 

[robzombie]

Most people prefer a cork pan gasket too.

Not me they leak, the paper composite are the best hands down!!

 

[Steve V]

Cometic oil pan gasket is the best I've seen yet. Don't forget tube of "The Right Stuff" for the rear main cap. If you do the front cover the balancer bolt is 220ft lb and a PITA to get off without a compressor/impact, but it can be done. Oil pick up tube is cheap if the orginal is full of nylon material. Lots of brakleen or carb spray.

Don't forget the $4 bushings you cheap a$$

 

[Steve V]

I also forgot to add do NOT where khaki pants as your wife will KILL you

 

[GNONYX]

When I replaced the timing chain I removed the balancer bolt with a 3/4" De Walt cordless Impact Driver, and a 1 1/8" socket from Advance Auto.
As Steve also mention, you might want to replace the Oil Pickup Tube being that they're cheap replacement.
You can use the impact driver to snug the balancer bolt back on, but I would use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 220 ft lbs.
Clamp vise grips onto the flexplate and it will wedge up against the block and stop the crankshaft from rotating, as you are tightening the bolt.
Also use red loc-tite on the cam bolts and on the Oil Pick Up Tube bolts, and I used it on the balancer bolt as well.
Same may said don't need to, but I did as my security satisfaction.
There are six bolts that goes through the water jacket engine block, and I also used Pertmatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (Item #80632).
The rest of the bolts you can use blue loc-tite on them.

 

[Meg's Dad]

Steve, taking khaki pants away from Jorge is like cutting Sampson's hair. Well maybe in this case it's like taking Michael Jackson's glove away...

 

[Jay J]

Khaki pants. Sampson's hair. and the pedophiles glove.

I'm missing something here....

 

[Meg's Dad]

Jay, that's pretty much Jorge (Koshe)...

 

[DavidM]

Hey guys, knock it off! Quit picking on the guy that wears khaki pants to work on Buicks.
We all know that picking out the correct set of pants is only half the battle when replacing a rear main seal.

I mean just look at this picture I took of Jorge last week. All he needs now is a Neoprene gasket, Pick Axe and a Hand Saw to fix his rear main seal leak.

 

[Meg's Dad]

Well, I guess that closes this thread.