racing a fresh motor
- Thread starter 2swoosh
- Start date
Why not just ask Mr. Anderson?
Adam Connell
Monster Truckin since 87'
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2006
There are two schools of thought... if it's got a flat tappet cam, then yeah break it in per the cam manufacturers directions.
If it's a roller, then you either A) go drive the absolute piss out of it or B) baby it...
We break our monster truck motors in with option A... I've always believed in putting a few good miles and getting everything thoroughly up to operating temp and then absolutely wailing on it. I then change the oil after the first tank of gas, rinse and repeat. The way I've had it explained to me is that the "rings must be seated". I honestly dont know if it's true, but all of my parents cars have lived 200K+ lives and the engine usually wasn't the problem in the end.
Option B) as I've heard it is to baby the engine for 1000 miles while it "breaks in". The tight tolerances in an engine shouldn't be changing much if any, so Im not too sure what people are talking about when breaking an engine in other than a flat tappet cam.
I put over 40K miles a year on new rental cars, and I love getting brand new ones. They are such turds until they get a few HARD miles on them. The gas mileage also usually goes up considerably over the first 1000 miles.
The final official word will be what the engine builder says... I don't build engines, he does. He's right when it's his engine, do it exactly how he says... it drives me INSANE when people don't listen to a builder. I just don't understand the logic behind paying someone top dollar to build your engine, and then ignoring their advice on how to run it.
If it's a roller, then you either A) go drive the absolute piss out of it or B) baby it...
We break our monster truck motors in with option A... I've always believed in putting a few good miles and getting everything thoroughly up to operating temp and then absolutely wailing on it. I then change the oil after the first tank of gas, rinse and repeat. The way I've had it explained to me is that the "rings must be seated". I honestly dont know if it's true, but all of my parents cars have lived 200K+ lives and the engine usually wasn't the problem in the end.
Option B) as I've heard it is to baby the engine for 1000 miles while it "breaks in". The tight tolerances in an engine shouldn't be changing much if any, so Im not too sure what people are talking about when breaking an engine in other than a flat tappet cam.
I put over 40K miles a year on new rental cars, and I love getting brand new ones. They are such turds until they get a few HARD miles on them. The gas mileage also usually goes up considerably over the first 1000 miles.
The final official word will be what the engine builder says... I don't build engines, he does. He's right when it's his engine, do it exactly how he says... it drives me INSANE when people don't listen to a builder. I just don't understand the logic behind paying someone top dollar to build your engine, and then ignoring their advice on how to run it.
I no ill probably be shunned for this but the correct break in procedure for a DSM and honda motor is to let it fully warm up and after that make a couple full throttle runs. They say that if anything is going to break, itd be then and if nothing breaks your good to go.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
If it's built properly, the ONLY thing that makes contact in an engine is the rings and cam/lifter interface. (oh ya...the timing chain, too). The rings NEED to be seated and the best way is with a big hit of boost. The last StageII I just finished on a Monday, raced on Wednesday. 10.03@134 on pump gas and alcohol. Street car. I would be suspect of any builder that says to "baby it" for 500 miles. My first question would be......."WHY........what needs babying inside the engine? Didn't I pay for premium parts and assembly methods?"
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
X2..we warm up, add a 10% load for 20 mins, shut down.
Check the valves, leaks, etc.... Then it's "HAMMER TIME"!
Thanks for the input guys got a call from Billy today and the car will be go to his shop tomorrow for a " goin over" as soon as customers in front of me are taking care of. I like to see this combo to last for a while so i will take my time then it's hammer time! thanks to all.
After following the cam manufacturers break in procedure. I like to try to operate the engine at a variety of speed & load conditions while trying to avoid any steady state conditions. I like to run it hard up a hill & coast down the backside to try & seat the rings as much as possible.
If you have a flat tappet cam you need to run an oil that has a decent zinc content, or use a zinc additive such as GM's EOS or ZDDP. I've been using DELO 400 for several years now on both my diesel & gas powered rigs. I believe DELO has a higher zinc content than Rotella does.
Here is an interesting article. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
~JM~
If you have a flat tappet cam you need to run an oil that has a decent zinc content, or use a zinc additive such as GM's EOS or ZDDP. I've been using DELO 400 for several years now on both my diesel & gas powered rigs. I believe DELO has a higher zinc content than Rotella does.
Here is an interesting article. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
~JM~
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
About oils.........Diesel oils are for LOW rpm use, ONLY. They are not formulated for high RPM use. I don't use 'em. Just about any oil will do the job for break in, though. Many top end builders use Penn or Gibbs break in oils. Personal preference in my opinion. I've used Castrol, Valvoline, Havoline 10-30 or straight 30w for break in with out an issue......EVER. It only is in there for about half an hour anyway. I do not use synthetic until 2500 miles, either. (2nd oil change)
