Question on rear seat braces,which one?

6E-GN

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
which is better I see this flat stamped deal on e-bay and I also see the tube style,which is better and why?thanks.:confused:
 
which is better I see this flat stamped deal on e-bay and I also see the tube style,which is better and why?thanks.:confused:

Well, the tube type you can get from Dennis Kirban and you'll know you'll be getting treated right by an honest guy....plus he's a supporting vendor, plus a great knowledgable guy to boot...can't beat that. That's why I bought mine from him...no dishonest sellers to deal with like I have in the past with eBay.


There's never dishonesty when you're dealing with Dennis.

Plus, they work just great.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
The flat GNX style have to be welded in, the round tube "X" braces bolt in.

Simplicity says "X" style. I have them & they work great. My car didn't have any rattles before I installed them, but I did notice a tighter feel to the car afterwards.
 
Kirban tube style here. Easy add on. On another note, KillerV8 made his out of electrial tubing.
 
I dont mind welding,I can do that,even if I got the round I will weld them,just wondering if there was any input on the two.
 
I dont mind welding,I can do that,even if I got the round I will weld them,just wondering if there was any input on the two.

I got my years ago during Kenne Bell days, but either Dennis Kirban from Kirban Performance or Brian Weaver from GBodyParts has the same one as the picture I inserted. I bolted my, but other members welded thiers; if I had a mig I would weld it also.
 

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As to your questions:

We actually carry both....the tube style has been out for many many years and bolts in same principle you see in your basement if you look up at the ceiling cross braces.

the GNX style gets welded in. Its like the original GNX.... being welded I would say that one has the edge. In road feel probably no real difference. The trick is to also do the front braces and connecting brace underneath and the missing or left out body bushings.

The end result is like having a new car very tight...

denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
Why buy Egay when you can buy from Kirban:confused:Why weld in:confused:

Kevin

Thanks for the reply,but I just said I saw the flat ones on ebay as a reference.and I have been racing for a long time,welding is less prone to failure,and I have a mig,and a plasma cutter here,so I can do it myself.
 
Thanks for the picture,that helps,does anyone have a picture of the round one installed?
 
As to your questions:

We actually carry both....the tube style has been out for many many years and bolts in same principle you see in your basement if you look up at the ceiling cross braces.

the GNX style gets welded in. Its like the original GNX.... being welded I would say that one has the edge. In road feel probably no real difference. The trick is to also do the front braces and connecting brace underneath and the missing or left out body bushings.

The end result is like having a new car very tight...

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Dennis,thanks for your reply,but I just looked ok your site and the flat one is galvanized?is that correct?and I see it comes with mounting hardware too?
 
Thanks for the reply,but I just said I saw the flat ones on ebay as a reference.and I have been racing for a long time,welding is less prone to failure,and I have a mig,and a plasma cutter here,so I can do it myself.

I was not trying to offend;) My response was more like why do you want to weld,if you sell the car you can always unbolt and no signs are left.I only bolt into my cars as it is easily turned back:rolleyes:I see the ebay posts all the time,I try and buy from those that support me.You will NOT find better people to buy from than Kirbans:biggrin:

Kevin
 
I got my years ago during Kenne Bell days... I bolted my, but other members welded thiers; if I had a mig I would weld it also.

I have had that very same Kenne-Bell one (bolted) in my car for over 20 years and the roof pillars never cracked ever, even after all these years of racing! One other important thing that really helps is to add the missing "GNX" bushings...Both these mods are a great investment if you plan to race! ...:wink:

Claude. :cool:
 
As to your questions:

We actually carry both....the tube style has been out for many many years and bolts in same principle you see in your basement if you look up at the ceiling cross braces.

the GNX style gets welded in. Its like the original GNX.... being welded I would say that one has the edge. In road feel probably no real difference. The trick is to also do the front braces and connecting brace underneath and the missing or left out body bushings.

The end result is like having a new car very tight...

denniskirban@yahoo.com

As I forgot to mention and Mr. Kirban also mention, definitely add the missing body bushings by the rear tires. I have T-Top, and I did not want to damage or create any body cracks. The braces and adding the missing bushing help my rear suspension from twisting.
As other members say, you may want to bolt instead of welding in case you decide to put back as original.
 
I was not trying to offend;) My response was more like why do you want to weld,if you sell the car you can always unbolt and no signs are left.I only bolt into my cars as it is easily turned back:rolleyes:I see the ebay posts all the time,I try and buy from those that support me.You will NOT find better people to buy from than Kirbans:biggrin:

Kevin

No signs are left?!?!?!?! The GNX brace needs 13 holes drilled to fit it properly. I welded mine in with 3/4" long beads and when I was done and put the backseat back in the car...it is not visible to anyone unless you go looking for it. It looks factory, and was factory. I wasnt about to drill 13 hiles in a 22k mile car, but welding in that $150 brace was the best mod I have made of the $6000 dollars in mods I have. Not pickin a fight but when you can weld it...do it.

Totally agree on Kirbans...GREAT PEOPLE.

:biggrin:
 
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