Question for painters?

[rtviper]

The car is stripped of paint. I have purchased dp90 for primer. My painter will be painting the car in a building with minimal heating. The temp will be about 50 + degrees this time of year.
He is using a single stage and 2 thick layers of clear.
Can you give me some tips to watch out for like :
Is etching needed, and sealer?
Recomended number if any. I bought DP90 because of info in here.
How many layers of base and primer is recomended?
How long between primer and sanding?
How long between base and clear?
How long should each dry before next stage?
I have no experience with my painter but he was recomended to me.
I will buy PPG black paint.
Any other tips to watch for would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Just a Six??]

The car is stripped of paint. I have purchased dp90 for primer. My painter will be painting the car in a building with minimal heating. The temp will be about 50 + degrees this time of year.
He is using a single stage and 2 thick layers of clear.
Can you give me some tips to watch out for like :
Is etching needed, and sealer?
Recomended number if any. I bought DP90 because of info in here.
How many layers of base and primer is recomended?
How long between primer and sanding?
How long between base and clear?
How long should each dry before next stage?
I have no experience with my painter but he was recomended to me.
I will buy PPG black paint.
Any other tips to watch for would be appreciated.
Thanks

Let him answer the questions, you post them & the pro's will tell you what to change. Probably easier.

 

[87 Pete]

?
How long between primer and sanding?
How long between base and clear?
How long should each dry before next stage?
I have no experience with my painter but he was recomended to me.
I will buy PPG black paint.
Any other tips to watch for would be appreciated.
Thanks

I just painted my car last fall with ppg. I read that catalyzed paint should not be used if it is less than 55-60° or you risk problems. Painting in cold weather also requires the correct low-temp reducers and will lengthen the curing times for each component. FWIW I did my painting when it was approx. 70°.

I used dplf 90 primer (1 week recoat window), k-36 blocking primer (1 day recoat window, I think), 2 coats DBC black basecoat with dx57 activator... 1 day recoat window, and 4 coats DCU 2002 clear... 3 day recoat window.

If you search on the web you can find tech sheets for each type of paint that go into detail for each component.

IMO, all my paint cost over $1200 so I definitely didn't stray from the info. on the tech sheets.

Pete

 

[rtviper]

Pete thanks. My painter just told me he was using a base paint and clear instead of single stage. I am trying to line up as many propane space heaters I can to warm up the place.
There are so many different preferences in here that I wonder if PPG is the paint to use? Some say don't use it and others say they have had good luck with it?

 

[87 Pete]

Pete thanks. My painter just told me he was using a base paint and clear instead of single stage. I am trying to line up as many propane space heaters I can to warm up the place.
There are so many different preferences in here that I wonder if PPG is the paint to use? Some say don't use it and others say they have had good luck with it?

Use whatever quality paint that your painter is familiar with. PPG, dupont, sikkens, HOK are all good.

Pete

 

[rtviper]

What about painting conditions. A lot of guys have painted before and I will assume some did not have a paint booth. Can you use a large building and make it paint worthy? How do you control for contaminates in the air? Will wetting down the area around the car help? Tell us about your paint experience outside of a paint booth and the results.
Thanks

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

DO NOT PAINT IN THE COLD and DO NOT DO BODY WORK IN THE COLD.
I got desperate and painted my car in the cold because I had to have my car for the summer. It was the biggest mistake I ever made. And now a year later I am making plans for a repaint and possibly a change of color but that’s another story.
Now all my dad says to me is " I told you SO "

 

[rtviper]

Once the car is stripped to metal by sanding how long can it sit. The building is dry but cold. The car has been stripped for a few days already and no signs of surface rust is apparent. We have some space heaters going while we work on the car but I am sure its below 45 degrees.
Should I round up as many heaters I can and bring up the temp to at least primer the car? The painter says don't worry he can run over the car with scotch brite and or DA it again.
Does this sound plausible?

 

[87 Pete]

Once the car is stripped to metal by sanding how long can it sit. The building is dry but cold. The car has been stripped for a few days already and no signs of surface rust is apparent. We have some space heaters going while we work on the car but I am sure its below 45 degrees.
Should I round up as many heaters I can and bring up the temp to at least primer the car? The painter says don't worry he can run over the car with scotch brite and or DA it again.
Does this sound plausible?

It depends on the humidity and temp changes that you see in the garage. If the garage is heated to a constant temperature and there is no humidity you may be fine for a couple weeks. A scotchbrite or DA will also remove minor rust.

If you are going to keep it outside, or it will be sitting for a long time, you can paint it with DPLF primer, but it will have to be scuffed/sanded if it sits longer than a week, and then you will have to apply additional DPLF.

You will definitely need fans while you are painting or it will get so hazy you won't be able to see anything, no to mention fumes, overspray dust etc.

I think that is why it is difficult to heat a garage and paint, your fans will be sucking out heated air and pulling in cold outside air, and most furnaces can't keep up. I also think it may be a bad idea to have heaters and open flame around combustible vapors/overspray.

Pete

 

[rtviper]

Thanks Pete.
I looked up painting in cold weather and information said it can be done as long as the car ,building and air temp are all the same? I guess that is telling me to not heat up the area around the car when painting?
The building is dry so I might be ok on a delay.
I was thinking about moving the car to a smaller room and heat that area. I will build a cubicle of visquine? with a fan pulling air out and air allowed in through an opening with a filter like a furnace would use. I would shut off the heaters when the spraying takes place and then turn them on after the air clears.

 

[GN&GTO]

you might get with your painter and find a place that will rent you a booth. i would put the dp90lf on the car as soon as you clean the metal that was stripped. if there is any body work to be done, filler can go directly over dp90lf with it being roughed up for adhesion. do not let the car sit in bare metal state for any extended period of time. you will be asking for problems, and a lot of extra work that could have been avoided. i personally would not paint if it below 65 degrees with any paint, clear, primer that requires an isocynate catalsyt. the next issue that would concern me is the fact that he is going to paint black bc/cc in a open shop. any dust or lint flying around lands in between you black base and clear will show up. this guy may be a good painter, don't want to disrespect him, but ask for references so you can look at his work. remember, in the painting business, you get what you pay for.

 

[BILL HAINES]

Ppg Dp Primer

Great Product, I Would Use Metal Conditioner Prior To Dp Primer

 

[BILL HAINES]

Ppg Products, Open Air Shop

I Used All Ppg Products On My Gn.. Open Air Shop.. I Do Feel You Should Wait Until A Warmer Day,especially If You Are Going To Use An Exhaust Fan,it Will Pull In The Outside Air,pull Out Your Heat..as Far As Dirt,a Clean Shop And Clean Are Supply(not Pulling Dust And Dirt In) Is A Big Help. I Did Get Some Dust In Clear As Most Paint Jobs Do, I Wet Sanded With 2000 And Buffed Out....your Best Bet Is To Paint Portions At A Time,you Can Control Your Circumstances Better, Possibly Paint The Hood,decklid Off The Car,paint The Quarters And Roof,then Paint Doors And Fenders.i Painted My Roof,and Quarters ,rockers(with Doors Open) There Are No Tape Lines In Jambs. Best Advice Take Your Time,don't Be In A Hurry..too Bad You Don't Live Closer. I Have 2 Possibly 3 Grand Nationals To Strip And Paint, A Typhoon, And God Knows What Else.best Of Luck To You...

 

[rtviper]

Thanks guys you have helped a lot. I will check with the paint supply store for a product to apply to the stripped body to eliminate any threat of rust. We will then scotch brite the body and apply DP90. I am moving to a smaller room that will be heated above 70 degrees.
We are changing back to single stage as it will allow us to check for any debris and sand it out before the clear is applied.
We will apply the DP90 on Thursday night and do some sanding on Friday. Saturday morning we will apply the single stage paint and clear.
I was shocked to find there is no body work needed. On a 23 year old car, no rust or dents to repair. The paint looked terrible and once off no issues. Guess you cant tell a book by it's cover

 

[rtviper]

The hood, trunk, header panel,spoiler, mirrors, bumpers and filler panels will all be painted off the car. I tested 3 propane space heaters in a 4k sq ft area we have the car in now and the room was pretty warm. Moving the 3 heaters into a 800 sq ft room should be warm enough.
We will blow the entire area out with air even the ceiling then wet mop the floors and then set up the room.

 

[87 Pete]

Thanks guys you have helped a lot. I will check with the paint supply store for a product to apply to the stripped body to eliminate any threat of rust. We will then scotch brite the body and apply DP90. I am moving to a smaller room that will be heated above 70 degrees.
We are changing back to single stage as it will allow us to check for any debris and sand it out before the clear is applied.
We will apply the DP90 on Thursday night and do some sanding on Friday. Saturday morning we will apply the single stage paint and clear.
I was shocked to find there is no body work needed. On a 23 year old car, no rust or dents to repair. The paint looked terrible and once off no issues. Guess you cant tell a book by it's cover

Here's a couple tips I found from doing my paintjob...

Use ppg dx330 acryli-clean on the bare metal before you put on the dplf. Some guys use lacquer thinner, but it leaves a residue IMO.

The dplf takes a long time to cure so you might want to let it sit overnight before you put basecoat on it.

As far as body work, you're not going to like this, but the sheet metal is alittle wavy even from the factory. At a minimum you might want to block the sides of the car, but you will have to use a blocking primer like k36 over the DPLF and the time and money add up fast. However don't try to sand the DPLF it is not meant for it.

Lastly, you mention putting clear over the single stage, unless the single stage is designed for clearcoat, I would just buy some black basecoat instead. The basecoat is specifically designed to provide a chemical bond to the clear, whereas a single stage may not.

Pete

 

[rtviper]

Good information from everyone. I stopped by a paint supplier and told him what I was doing to get ideas.
I was told to use a wax degreaser to go over the body before primer. He said he carries PPG paint and they do not have a product to etch or remove any surface rust but the cleaner will do the same thing.
I can't see any surface rust as the car has been stripped for about 3 days now.
Next we should apply the DP90 and a PPG filler over the top. Then block sand the surface to get nice and smooth.
Next night apply the single stage paint. Said to apply a couple coats and do not use a clear coat. He says the single stage will have plenty of gloss without the clear.The single stage is nice just in case you get any dirt in the paint.
I cant remember now but thought he said there was another application of product just before we put on the paint??
Any comments on his scenario?

 

[GN&GTO]

he probably mentioned the use of sealer befor the topcoat. what hardener are you using with the dp90? if you are using 401lf, you can mix the dp90lf as a sealer. the mix ration would be 2parts dp90lf, 1 part dp401lf, 1/2 part dt reducer. you can apply one medium wet coat, then wait thirty minutes before you put the single stage paint on. hope that helps a little. if you need any more info you can pm for my number.

 

[BILL HAINES]

Dp Primer

Yes I Do Agree That You Can,wet On Wet (so To Speak) The Only Problem Is That The Dp Primer Goes On Rough,kinda Of Orange Peel.. Appling Base Over This Primer Will Give A Rougher Surface To The Basecoat..i Put 3 Coats Of Dp90 Over The Bare Metal(after Metal Conditioner), Allowed 4 Days Dry, I Then Used 400 Grit Wetsandpaper To Block Roughness From The Primer. I Than Primed With Fill Primer (250 And Hardner 255) Please Note The Dp Primers Are Hard To Sand, They Clog Your Paper..as Per Prior Post,dp Primers Are Not A Great Fill Primer,just A Great Metal Etch Primer..after All Primer Was Ready For Base Coat, I Applied 4 Coats Of Base(dbu) And Let Dry 1 Day. I Then Used 600 Grit Wet Sandpaper And Smoothed The Basecoat (went Through A Few Areas) So Not The Basecoat Is Very Flat.. I Applied 3 More "kiss Coats" And Then Applied 4 Coats Of Clear (ppg 4000)now, Sounds Like A Pia, Sealer Would Probably Do The Same Thing, But I Wanted To Be Sure There Were No Sandscratches. Anways Talk To 10 Different Painters, Each Will Give Their 2 Cents... There Is More Than On Way To Skin A Cat,so To Speak.. Good Luck, Show Up Some Photos

 

[87 Pete]

Yes I Do Agree That You Can,wet On Wet (so To Speak) The Only Problem Is That The Dp Primer Goes On Rough,kinda Of Orange Peel.. Appling Base Over This Primer Will Give A Rougher Surface To The Basecoat..i

I agree with Bill, dplf is like a heavy syrup and tricky to lay down smooth.

You can reduce it with DT reducer, just remember to build up enough coats, the tech sheet says at least two wet coats (unreduced).

It also makes a nice sealer (over filler or blocking primer) if you reduce it as well.

Pete