PTC 9.5" NL cruise videos ATTENTION Rob Zombie

Unfortunately I'm going back to a sprag in my NL. My builder at edge racing converters asked if I was going to use a trans brake so he ended up building a spagless 9" for me . It pulls amazing out the hole but I do a lot of street driving and I can't even cruise for 30 min without my temps getting to 210-220+ . Long story short is I'm pulling it as we speak going back to a sprag
 
I think as this thread gets more views...more and more will see that the temps are other than desirable with spragless. Way I see it on a street car....why put up temps when you baby it around. Its a Turbo Buick known for its power...I want a combo that can handle a flogging and not over heat the trans while doing it and still be able to drive it for long distances on the highway
 
dank GN said:
Unfortunately I'm going back to a sprag in my NL. My builder at edge racing converters asked if I was going to use a trans brake so he ended up building a spagless 9" for me . It pulls amazing out the hole but I do a lot of street driving and I can't even cruise for 30 min without my temps getting to 210-220+ . Long story short is I'm pulling it as we speak going back to a sprag
Click to expand...

Bison drove his car from CT to Cecil and back with no issues with his spragless PTC. I personally believe the spragless causes heat issues on a few applications. I know mine with the maximum blade count stator and heavy car my trans temps get up near 200 but never seemed to cause any issues.
AG.
 
turbobitt said:
Bison drove his car from CT to Cecil and back with no issues with his spragless PTC. I personally believe the spragless causes heat issues on a few applications. I know mine with the maximum blade count stator and heavy car my trans temps get up near 200 but never seemed to cause any issues.
AG.
Click to expand...

Most have no clue what their trans temp is.
 
Just my 2 cents here but if someone really likes the way the spragless converter pulls and it is getting the trans temps a little high, why not modify the transmission fluid cooling system a little to get the fluid temps down instead of removing a torque converter that they like? Just adding a big external cooler on mine made all the difference in the world. I have no plans to ever change mine back.
 
For those people quoting their trans temps, where are you measuring the temperature? One of the cooler lines, or in the pan?

Bob
 
I did add another external cooler . So I had it going through my radiator then through 2 coolers that where right in freash air . My gauge is in the pan and readings would get passed 210-220 from a 25min drive . I have 30psi from supply line at idle in my coolant circuit.
 
Well that does sound too hot then. I guess every car is different. I have mine going through the radiator and then through a large external behind the bumper.
 
TurboBob said:
For those people quoting their trans temps, where are you measuring the temperature? One of the cooler lines, or in the pan?

Bob
Click to expand...
I measure mine in the sump with a K type thermocouple. I will soon be measuring at the cooler outlet as well since I want to see what's happening while using my switchable stall device. I notice that on just street driving or even highway driving, my car spends most of its time near flash stall. It seems to generate higher sump temps than my water inlet temps. I believe in my case, this is causing an irritating cooling issues because my water temps will creep on ambient outside temps of 75+ degree days. My conclusion is that the transmission oil is transferring most of the heat in the cool side of the radiator and raising the water inlet temp to the engine and no matter what, the radiator can't keep up. Bison and I did a little experiment on the highway and found that we can manipulate the trans sump temps by varying the cruise RPM thus enforcing my thought process.
My plan to correct this is to install an auxiliary cooler either separate from the radiator or before the inlet of the radiator. I'm still debating if the extra time and weight is actually worth it based on the limited driving I do. I really don't think my case represents the majority though since Bison for example doesn't have fixed line pressure and the same blade count with his converter and has no problem.
AG.
 
Measuring my temps in the pan. Running JUST a B&M external cooler with fan. I don't use the sensor that automatically turns on the fan, have it set up manually. Felt like it turned on at too high a temp. If I see temp approaching 175 or so I just turn it on. Just have to remember to do it but it is 2nd nature now that it has been that way for a few years. Some day I will wire it so the sensor works AND have a manual over ride, just never bothered.

On the other hand is it possible to have temps too LOW? Now that fall is here takes a while for the temp to come up.
 
TR Custom Parts said:
...On the other hand is it possible to have temps too LOW? Now that fall is here takes a while for the temp to come up.
Click to expand...

No. Trans fluid does not need any heat to do its job effectively. It may shift REALLY hard though until a certain temp is reached.
 
dank GN said:
Unfortunately I'm going back to a sprag in my NL. My builder at edge racing converters asked if I was going to use a trans brake so he ended up building a spagless 9" for me . It pulls amazing out the hole but I do a lot of street driving and I can't even cruise for 30 min without my temps getting to 210-220+ . Long story short is I'm pulling it as we speak going back to a sprag
Click to expand...

A 9" will also run hotter than a 9.5" just like an 8" will run hotter than a 9".

The fact is a sprag is the most likely failure point in the converter. It will fail at some point and you will not see it coming until the day comes when the car will not spool. I've broken many stock style sprags in the Art Carr days and that's the main reason I still prefer spragless. They are just unbreakable. For those with driving habits or hilly terrain I will install a sprag but its a HD sprag so hopefully it works for years without fail.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Dusty Bradford said:
A 9" will also run hotter than a 9.5" just like an 8" will run hotter than a 9".

The fact is a sprag is the most likely failure point in the converter. It will fail at some point and you will not see it coming until the day comes when the car will not spool. I've broken many stock style sprags in the Art Carr days and that's the main reason I still prefer spragless. They are just unbreakable. For those with driving habits or hilly terrain I will install a sprag but its a HD sprag so hopefully it works for years without fail.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Click to expand...
What about these mechanical diodes? Just hype ?
AG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If they have a billet stator tube, that's what I'd be looking at. The HD sprag has worked well in OL 10.5 cars.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
turbobitt said:
What about these mechanical diodes? Just hype ?
AG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No hype they are very strong and are more efficient. they can be hard on a stator if you have a big hp car and like to pedal can be rough on a stator. No relevance on a 200 car. 2000hp v8 nitrous car yes.
 
Dusty Bradford said:
If they have a billet stator tube, that's what I'd be looking at. The HD sprag has worked well in OL 10.5 cars.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Click to expand...
Dusty,
Out of curiosity, Could we consider a mechanical diode for my converter for the street strip driving that I'm doing ? Something your willing to do ?
AG.
 
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