PTC 9.5" Install Questions

[The Granny]

I'm installing a 9.5" PTC right now, after reading the instructions I have a few questions. I do know the holes in the fly wheel must be opened up a little bit. Am I supposed to thread the bolt through the flywheel into the converter, use loctite, and achieve the 1/8" to 3/16" recommended gap between the converter and flywheel with washers? None came with the converter, however a set of nuts did. And that's what's puzzling me also.

Also, is there a torque spec I should be tightening the bolt into the converter to? or just two ugga duggas with the impact

(joking about the ugga duggas)

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[pacecarta]

before you put converter into trans make sure the center hub of converter fits into the crank , if it dosn't now is the time to fix it
push converter into trans and while rotating you should feel three clicks as it goes in and you should measure around 1.25inch from trans face to converter pad
then once trans is up and bolted in push the converter back into trans measure the distance to flexplate ,
if its more than 3/16 ( a nickel and a dime ) you need to add shim (washers) to get it to that 3/16 -1/8 clearance ,
doing this ensures that the converter is out of the trans enough (at least 1/8") to prevent pump damage from being too tight ..and that is not out of the trans too far (over 3/16) as to risk damage to the pump drive tabs
shim use will vary on converters and flexplates
so for example if its 3/8 you could use an 1/8 or less than 1/4 shim between converter and flexplate ,

you need to supply what your car needs , washers will work but summit sells 1/8 and 1/4 shims for converters . i usually use arp flat hardened washers from head bolt kits

if its 3/16 or less (but not less than 1/8 ) you can just bolt it up , if its less than 1/8 you need to stop and something will need to change , make sure the converter is in the transmission fully , converter pads to be cut down but i've never run into that with a PTC
torque should be around 65 # , oe was 50# but that was a smaller m10 fastener

 

[The Granny]

before you put converter into trans make sure the center hub of converter fits into the crank , if it dosn't now is the time to fix it
push converter into trans and while rotating you should feel three clicks as it goes in and you should measure around 1.25inch from trans face to converter pad
then once trans is up and bolted in push the converter back into trans measure the distance to flexplate ,
if its more than 3/16 ( a nickel and a dime ) you need to add shim (washers) to get it to that 3/16 -1/8 clearance ,
doing this ensures that the converter is out of the trans enough (at least 1/8") to prevent pump damage from being too tight ..and that is not out of the trans too far (over 3/16) as to risk damage to the pump drive tabs
shim use will vary on converters and flexplates
so for example if its 3/8 you could use an 1/8 or less than 1/4 shim between converter and flexplate ,

you need to supply what your car needs , washers will work but summit sells 1/8 and 1/4 shims for converters . i usually use arp flat hardened washers from head bolt kits

if its 3/16 or less (but not less than 1/8 ) you can just bolt it up , if its less than 1/8 you need to stop and something will need to change , make sure the converter is in the transmission fully , converter pads to be cut down but i've never run into that with a PTC
torque should be around 65 # , oe was 50# but that was a smaller m10 fastener

Thank you Paul, I did test fit the converter on the flywheel and transmission before I attempted to bolt it all on. The instructions say there should be two distinct clicks, so that's what I was feeling for. But I was down there until 2am trying to get the damn thing lined up right, but no luck. it would never get close enough to the block to start bolting down. Maybe it's not in there all the way. ill try measuring the trans face to the converter pad and see where it's at now that's a very helpful piece you gave me thank you.

So does the bolt just go through the flywheel into the converter, with no nut? Nuts were supplied but don't fit due to the size of the converter. Pics of the issue are below:

also, the bolts aren't long enough the protrude the converter, even if it were tightened all the way down.

and there's no room to slide the bolt in from the converter side to the flywheel, due to the converter size again.

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[dynoman]

Bolts go through the flex plate into the converter , no nut needed and that is plenty of thread engagement into the converter .

 

[The Granny]

gotcha... the converter wasn't in all the way, I got it in all the way now and am trying to stab it in. thanks dynoman that's what I was thinking but wasn't sure since my old one used a bolt/nut


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[The Granny]

got the housing bolts tight. so the converter pad should be 1/8" to 3/16" away from the flywheel. with the converter in the trans all the way I'm at 1/8" between the pad and flywheel. So no shims are needed? Or should I used 1/8" shims to retain that gap. I haven't measured the gap with bolts in this is without bolts.


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[pacecarta]

bolt it up

 

[The Granny]

bolt it up

with 1/8" shims to retain the gap that's there without the bolts in? or are you saying to bolt it up and see where it ends up


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[pacecarta]

no shims,
you have an 1/8 gap with converter pushed to trans , you need to push it to flexplate now and just bolt it up , don't tighten any bolts until you get all three threaded down

 

[The Granny]

no shims,
you have an 1/8 gap with converter pushed to trans , you need to push it to flexplate now and just bolt it up , don't tighten any bolts until you get all three threaded down

gotcha. I just don't wanna mess this up. I'll be finishing the install tonight thanks again Paul you've helped a ton


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[The Granny]

finished the install and drove around the block, now I have a huge trans fluid leak. when I torqued the converter bolts to spec it brought the converter flush to the flywheel. Could this be the issue?


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[pacecarta]

no way
was this a nonlock ..if so was the trans converted to non lock

its possible the weld at the converter neck is leaking ..it has happened
are you certain its not a trans cooler line, tv cable seal or fill tube seal

 

[ScottyG]

If you switch to a NL convertor ?are you not running a aftermarket cooler ?the trans fluid is prob getting really hot and blowing out the breather.

Did u replace the front pump seal?

With the size of the convertor even a lock-up would produce Enough heat to have it blow out the vent tube

Lastly U don't want any trans running above 200* and through a factory rad cooler the temps are already around that temp with a stock convertor

I know u said u went around the block and the statements I said might not be heat related but idk how far is around the block is

 

[The Granny]

no way
was this a nonlock ..if so was the trans converted to non lock

its possible the weld at the converter neck is leaking ..it has happened
are you certain its not a trans cooler line, tv cable seal or fill tube seal

the previous converter was a non lock, it had been in the car for about 10+ years. I had the trans rebuilt last year and put this same converter back in, so when the old converter was put in either of those two times I assume it was converted but I'm not 100% sure. What's funny is I jacked up the car, front and rear, about 1 1/2 feet into the air and ran the car until it warmed up and crawled under and couldn't find any leaks. I didn't run through the gears, I left it in park, so not sure if thatd have an effect on the leak. I read last night about others having the welds at the neck leaking, hopefully that's not the case for me..

If you switch to a NL convertor ?are you not running a aftermarket cooler ?the trans fluid is prob getting really hot and blowing out the breather.

Did u replace the front pump seal?

With the size of the convertor even a lock-up would produce Enough heat to have it blow out the vent tube

Lastly U don't want any trans running above 200* and through a factory rad cooler the temps are already around that temp with a stock convertor

I know u said u went around the block and the statements I said might not be heat related but idk how far is around the block is

I'm not running and aftermarket cooler yet I'got a derale cooler a couple days ago just haven't had the time to mount and plumb it.

I think the pump deal was replaced when I had the trans rebuilt last year, but not 100% certain.

I'm going from a 9" to a 9.5", j don't think I've ever had any fluid come out the vent tube, none that I can remember. so if it did it must've been a really small amount which is the opposite of the amount I'm seeing now.

I'm running an alradco cooler with their 2 big fans, coming on at 190° and off at 180°. That's coolant temp though, not sure what the trans temps are getting to. I let the car warm up to about 165° in the driveway on my maiden voyage, drove lightly only getting into second gear occasionally, and coolant temps were getting up high enough to kick the fans on. then I got out and checked the fluid level, checked under the car for any leaks, and after those checked out I made a light pull starting in 1st from a roll and I got it into 2nd gear then let off. But this was a light pull, maybe 10# boost, the SM G didn't even record it.


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[Pronto]

Can you determine exactly where the leak is? Wipe it all down clean and with the inspection cover off check it on a lift or evenly jacked up. The fill tube grommet can be a source.

 

[The Granny]

Can you determine exactly where the leak is? Wipe it all down clean and with the inspection cover off check it on a lift or evenly jacked up. The fill tube grommet can be a source.

I cleaned all around th converter and trans but left it that way for the night. the cars up Jack stands evenly right now I'm not sure if I should run the engine like that while its in park and let the car get warm and check, or do the same thing except run it in drive for a while and check for leaks, or take it off the stands, drive it until temps get warm, then check.

the fluid appeared to be falling from right underneath the converter neck but I'm not sure. will check and let you guys know tonight once I get off work and test it out


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[SCOOBY DOO]

Front pump seal?

 

[jthomas]

I'm thinking front pump seal too. I always replace that seal when I remove and reinstall a torque converter. It may have been worn or you may have nicked it when reinstalling the converter.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I'm thinking front pump seal too. I always replace that seal when I remove and reinstall a torque converter. It may have been worn or you may have nicked it when reinstalling the converter.

I do the same thing. Install a new one when swapping convertors. They're cheap and only take a minute to change.

 

[The Granny]

Well, I cleaned the area and took the car out of the driveway, noticed more leaks, and pulled it back in and let it sit overnight. This was yesterday. Today I crawled underneath and found fluid underneath the cooler lines, so I replaced them. A good sign is the converter and everywhere around the neck was dry, so I don't think the pump seal or converter neck are an issue. With the lines replaced and car evenly jacked up I let the car get to 180° coolant temp and cycled through park down to 1st gear, no leaks at all. going to take it for a light cruise and check for leaks and fluid level, then for a cruise at high way speeds and check for leaks. hopefully all goes well thank you all


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