PTC 9.5" NL cruise videos ATTENTION Rob Zombie
- Thread starter bison
- Start date
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I had a sprag in my V8 car in 08 with this core and they were available years before that. I broke a stock style sprag at a race that year and couldn't race because of it. Swapped to a diode and broke the stator support in the burnout box of the next race and I've been running spragless ever since. Data logs only showed an average of 50 rpm more at the stripe with the spragless and I had to average the last 2 seconds to see that. I will say this particular core and design works very well spragless but spragless will not always work as well in others.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I'm running a spragless 9.5 . been to montana , tennesee , maryland , florida, new york , cali , arizona , nevada, texas, alabama, and everywhere in between . average about 16-17 mpg . pull's hard & hits fast . I LOVE MY 600+HP DAILY DRIVER . thanks LONNIE & DUSTY !
Last edited:
psycho6cyl
Ponies Are For Lil Girls
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
Raff were you able to monitor trans temp? If so what cooler are you running
I'm running a factory gnx cooler . trans temps have never been above 200 that i know of . other then at the track .. i have had it up around 215 for test & tune . that was coming off the trans brake .multiple times . my ptc 10 lockup melted under the same conditions .
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
First off I am not meaning this for a slam to PTC, Dusty, Lane or any body else at PTC, my only input to this is my first hand experience and goal being to put my info out there for future choices of those looking at sprag vs not with non LU.
2 years back I built a mild build (see signature) combo is about 550ish maybe a little more and the stall speed chosen was around 3400. And Dusty as usual was outstanding in working with me to get a convertor setup for my combo and the stall speed was perfect. But...unfortunately with a spragless my trans got to hot and eventually died.
My trans cooler is not in series with the radiator cooler and was/is a Stacked plate Long H7B 11" x 11" x 1.5 rated at 29000 BTU placed right in the grill airflow and gets air pulled across it at low speeds via electric fan and I was running Dex IV fluid when it died.
Heres the cooler (not endorsing the company in the thread just an example)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Long-DANA-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item338e2a1ab7&vxp=mtr
I first noticed it when driving through the mountains going to BG/GS nats and the trans burped out the dipstick tube and vent with the cruise on 65-70 and hitting the long grades through the mountain passes. Also my driving style is I drive my car alot and put it through the paces. This meaning strip, roll racing (45 -120 ish) back to back, long grades and may have to nail it to pass while on that grade.
While out one night a group of us gt into a few back to back rolling runs and on the 3 run back to back the 2-3 flared bad and smoke rolled out of my car (from the trans burping fluid out from overheating on teh exhaust) and was slipping and done with the fluid black as tar and just plain cooked.
I keep a 200 as a spare and decided to do some testing so I pulled my old trans, replaced the cooler , flushed the lines and filled and drained the conv several times and slapped it in the car.
Running at 55-60 sustained on flat ground, in OD, 98 degree summer day, no boost, for 5-7 miles my sump on my trans was 212-219 degrees. If I stood in it from low speed roll after the trans is already heat soaked at the temp I mentioned and ran to about half way through 3rd my temps creeped to 238. And the temp stayed elevated while driving unless I parked the car and let it cool or let it idle in park.
Having seen enough from my tests I pulled the transmission/conv and started doing some research. I called 7 different big name trans places (ATI, Pro torque, CPT, Art Carr, B&M to name a few) not telling them it was a PTC and I also looked on line at several chat rooms and blogs not one said that a spragless is for the street due to the excessive heat built. Pro torque went so far as to say they wont even sell a spragless conv to someone that drives on the street.
After this I was pretty frustrated being that I now had to get my trans rebuilt and get the conv fixed.
Spoke with Dusty and Lane and we came to the conclusion that a sprag should be added to try and get the temps down and also I asked for it to be tightened 200 rpm and they completely worked with me with great customer service like they are known for.
So long story short.....same scenario with the changes being sprag added 200 rpm tighter and Trick shift trans fluid my temps in the same situation are 25 degrees cooler and the temp recovers after a hit/pass/run. Sprag fixed my issue.
Dusty called me since with a follow up to see if everything was working out and to see if temps dropped, which furthers the example of great customer service they are known for. No mud slingin meant towards anyone, just that my experience and driving style the spragless didn't work, this I had to find out the hard way and due to that I want others to know so maybe they can make a better informed decision on such a not cheap part.
2 years back I built a mild build (see signature) combo is about 550ish maybe a little more and the stall speed chosen was around 3400. And Dusty as usual was outstanding in working with me to get a convertor setup for my combo and the stall speed was perfect. But...unfortunately with a spragless my trans got to hot and eventually died.
My trans cooler is not in series with the radiator cooler and was/is a Stacked plate Long H7B 11" x 11" x 1.5 rated at 29000 BTU placed right in the grill airflow and gets air pulled across it at low speeds via electric fan and I was running Dex IV fluid when it died.
Heres the cooler (not endorsing the company in the thread just an example)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Long-DANA-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item338e2a1ab7&vxp=mtr
I first noticed it when driving through the mountains going to BG/GS nats and the trans burped out the dipstick tube and vent with the cruise on 65-70 and hitting the long grades through the mountain passes. Also my driving style is I drive my car alot and put it through the paces. This meaning strip, roll racing (45 -120 ish) back to back, long grades and may have to nail it to pass while on that grade.
While out one night a group of us gt into a few back to back rolling runs and on the 3 run back to back the 2-3 flared bad and smoke rolled out of my car (from the trans burping fluid out from overheating on teh exhaust) and was slipping and done with the fluid black as tar and just plain cooked.
I keep a 200 as a spare and decided to do some testing so I pulled my old trans, replaced the cooler , flushed the lines and filled and drained the conv several times and slapped it in the car.
Running at 55-60 sustained on flat ground, in OD, 98 degree summer day, no boost, for 5-7 miles my sump on my trans was 212-219 degrees. If I stood in it from low speed roll after the trans is already heat soaked at the temp I mentioned and ran to about half way through 3rd my temps creeped to 238. And the temp stayed elevated while driving unless I parked the car and let it cool or let it idle in park.
Having seen enough from my tests I pulled the transmission/conv and started doing some research. I called 7 different big name trans places (ATI, Pro torque, CPT, Art Carr, B&M to name a few) not telling them it was a PTC and I also looked on line at several chat rooms and blogs not one said that a spragless is for the street due to the excessive heat built. Pro torque went so far as to say they wont even sell a spragless conv to someone that drives on the street.
After this I was pretty frustrated being that I now had to get my trans rebuilt and get the conv fixed.
Spoke with Dusty and Lane and we came to the conclusion that a sprag should be added to try and get the temps down and also I asked for it to be tightened 200 rpm and they completely worked with me with great customer service like they are known for.
So long story short.....same scenario with the changes being sprag added 200 rpm tighter and Trick shift trans fluid my temps in the same situation are 25 degrees cooler and the temp recovers after a hit/pass/run. Sprag fixed my issue.
Dusty called me since with a follow up to see if everything was working out and to see if temps dropped, which furthers the example of great customer service they are known for. No mud slingin meant towards anyone, just that my experience and driving style the spragless didn't work, this I had to find out the hard way and due to that I want others to know so maybe they can make a better informed decision on such a not cheap part.
Last edited:
Flyin Brian
Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
Quick question. Were you running the trans fluid through the cooler in the radiator also or were you just running it through the external? Also what was your engine coolant temperature? Just wondering.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Good point I forgot to mention that I will edit it. The cooler is NOT going through the radiator and the engine runs in the 170-178 range on a warm summer day.
Last edited:
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jason. I think we also tightened your converter 200 or 400 rpm along with adding the sprag. Your spool up was very quick so we had room to tighten it a little.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
psycho6cyl
Ponies Are For Lil Girls
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
That's why trans temp never got hot 
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Fixed it. FWIW the speed at my tests were still way under the new stall. thx
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
fixed it . thanks john .
Thanks for the info Brian. Hope your car is running well these days
robzombie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2012
Finally saw this post and I just want to thank Brian for starting it, even though it was out of malice or mockery.
I would like to thank the people who responded to this post [Lonnie,Dave,Dusty] and Jason that set the record straight and put forth the truth about why each converter type [NLU] sprag and spragless should affect which one might suit your needs best as well as if you may want to stay with a LU or not.
I hope that the people who read this thread will respect the advice of the people who know more about converters and transmissions than me or anyone else on this board and deal with these issues on a daily basis and can provide the truth in technical as well as layman terms so all that read it can understand it.
This thread only confirms what I've been trying to convey the whole time and ended up getting a beat down for it. Will you stop the petty school girl attacks now Brian? There is no one brand or style converter for everybody that will give you everything you want.
I'll stick to what is best for me right now, A good LU that may give up a tenth or two at the track if run all out but gives me everything else I want and need in a converter. Like I've said time and time again the PTC isn't a bad converter it's just over hyped and not for me as I drive my car to many miles and not just a 1/4 mile at a time.
There you go TLIMITED, I finally crawled over to this thread. I hope you're satisfied.
I would like to thank the people who responded to this post [Lonnie,Dave,Dusty] and Jason that set the record straight and put forth the truth about why each converter type [NLU] sprag and spragless should affect which one might suit your needs best as well as if you may want to stay with a LU or not.
I hope that the people who read this thread will respect the advice of the people who know more about converters and transmissions than me or anyone else on this board and deal with these issues on a daily basis and can provide the truth in technical as well as layman terms so all that read it can understand it.
This thread only confirms what I've been trying to convey the whole time and ended up getting a beat down for it. Will you stop the petty school girl attacks now Brian? There is no one brand or style converter for everybody that will give you everything you want.
I'll stick to what is best for me right now, A good LU that may give up a tenth or two at the track if run all out but gives me everything else I want and need in a converter. Like I've said time and time again the PTC isn't a bad converter it's just over hyped and not for me as I drive my car to many miles and not just a 1/4 mile at a time.
There you go TLIMITED, I finally crawled over to this thread. I hope you're satisfied.
Last edited:
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
I did back to back testing with the vigilante and the PTC. Only change I made on the car was a front mount IC from the first rounds.
98.5 to 101.5 in the 1/8 with 1-2psi less boost
98.5 to 101.5 in the 1/8 with 1-2psi less boost
