ProEFI on 87 GN

ALL standalones need to be tuned on a dyno PERIOD.

This is your opinion. I prefer to tune WOT on the dyno. Mostly from a safety point of view and having a controlled environment where the wheels don't spin and I can watch things closer, etc... When it comes to start up and drivability, I prefer to actually have the customer drive the car. He may have driving habits that are much diferent then mine that create conditions that I may not normally encounter, especially on a dyno.

It is impossible to make a safe self tuning computer.

The EZ EFI is the most popular EFI system sold by FAST. Carb-to-EFI Conversion Has Never Been EZer
It does not require a laptop and is completly self-tuning. This strategies incorporated in this product laid the groundwork for the adaptive learning in the XFI 2.0

Think about it..... lets say that you are in self learning mode and at 14 psi and 4500 rpms you are 15% lean..... well the computer will correct and add 15% there but not until you WERE 15% lean. Now lets say that you are 20% lean somewhere else.... the computer does not know this unless you ARE 20% lean which even for a small moment can melt your engine. When I am tuning a car I never let an engine get anywhere near that lean. This is why you always want to dyno tune any engine and then let the O2 sensor make minimal changes for weather, temp etc. .

This is not correct at all. Just because the O2 sensor is adding 15% fuel, doesn't mean the engine actually got 15% lean. It means the fuel MAP is 15% lean. The Actual A/F should still be close to the Target A/F. Now, depending on the situation, it could get slightly lean or very lean as it gets into that area of the fuel map. But that is controllable by the user the same way you are doing it. I have never melted a motor or even a plug using the adaptive learning.

I always enjoy reading about new systems and have been following this thread closely. If you start making comparisons to other systems, it may quickly get polluted. I sell several aftermaket systems and can tell you there are Pros and Cons to each of them.
 
Im a XFI gUY THE NEW 2.0 IS BAD AZZ LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE and my xfi is not for sale but thanks for the offer guys but its still a big NO.LOL.
 
Cal, I see no reason why a civil conversation making comparisons can't be had:confused:

No offense but I feel Larry is correct the fueling strategy employed by ProEFI is going to be worlds better than anything in Accel, FAST and BS3 and it is definitely far more advanced. 3D airmass modeling is exactly what the OEM's are doing these days it it works quite well.

That being said the more advanced something is the more difficult it is for the end user to understand. When I talked to ProEFI two year ago it was my understanding the system was not really designed for the average end user and was more for tuners and was going to be sold as such.

FAST, BS3 and DFI are all written and made for avg end users to use and understand. We even have some who just want to just plug it in and have it just work and figure it all out on its own:rolleyes:

The programming and code in these systems take a lot of liberties and have pre-defined values that as Larry pointed out are based on 80's and 90's technology. A fuel map based solely on rpm, MAP and IAT is after all as basic as it gets, wouldn't you agree?

I'm not saying these systems dont work and work well, obviously they do and I still use them. BUT that's not to say there isn't a better way of doing it. ProEFI is definitely employing a fueling strategy that is vastly different than what we have been using. Obviously the jury is still out on this system but in my eyes if it works like it is intended the end result should be a more accurate fuel mapping that can't be achieved with older systems like DFI, FAST and BS3.

Which brings me to my next question, Larry I asked some specific questions above about load and how ProEFI calculates it and what values it is using. Can you please respond to my post above, thanks
 
The price is wow for this unit dont get me wrong it is cool but money kills me plus the xfi has been very friendly to my car,s.
 
The price is wow for this unit dont get me wrong it is cool but money kills me plus the xfi has been very friendly to my car,s.

I agree and that was my point this unit isn't for everyone.

Price wise it probably isn't much different. Outfit an XFI with all the options along with a AMS1000, XIM, traction control etc and I would bet the prices are comparable.
 
Which brings me to my next question, Larry I asked some specific questions above about load and how ProEFI calculates it and what values it is using. Can you please respond to my post above, thanks


I am going to have Jason, the owner of ProEFI answer those questions for you. I will forward him a copy of them to his personal email now.
 
I agree and that was my point this unit isn't for everyone.

Price wise it probably isn't much different. Outfit an XFI with all the options along with a AMS1000, XIM, traction control etc and I would bet the prices are comparable.


Exactly, when you add up everything that you get with ProEFI, it is hard to beat. It would take a $12,000 Motec system to compete.
 
Yes, I just need to get the correct connectors for the stock ECU and ignition module.

Larry, the last time I talked to John from Caspers, he did say he has both of the connectors you are looking for; the ECU and the module. So is it just matter of picking that up and sending it to Jason and have them put on the Poefi connectors on the other end to make it plug & play?

TIA
Prasad
 
Larry, the last time I talked to John from Caspers, he did say he has both of the connectors you are looking for; the ECU and the module. So is it just matter of picking that up and sending it to Jason and have them put on the Poefi connectors on the other end to make it plug & play?

TIA
Prasad

I believe that is correct.
 
Car is still running awsome. Have about 1200 miles on it since the installation / tuning, driven to a few local dragstrips in that time and every pass I make off the tbrake yeilds 10.30-10.40 @ 128-130mph passes and then drive home. All on e85. I did try turning the boost up more (currently at 26psi), but like it did on the dyno it just blows through the converter more. I plan on switching to a PTC converter over the winter and then shouldnt have a problem dipping into the 9s.

To clarify also, these 10.30 passes have been made with 1.58-1.62 60 foots, and the car traps 108-109 at the 1/8th, but only picks up 20-21mph out the back. With a converter I am sure running in the 1.4X range 60 foot and picking up 25mph out back shouldnt be an issue.
 
Cliff! Being new to the board here, please don't take offense, but what does the whole set-up with labor cost? I ask cause soon I will be doing this mod!Thanks
 
Also, brief update. Didnt swap converters yet, but decided to see how much of a difference switching the trans fluid to John Deer tractor oil would make.

Drove the car to the track, made two passes {both grudge / $$ races} and drove home 175mile round trip. Picked up a couple MPG, lowered cruising rpm at 65 mph by about 150-180, and car went 10.20@133, even though it slowed down by .1 and 2mph at the 1/8th. So now its picking up 26mph out the back. Time to turn the two step, launch boost up, and run 30psi. :D
 
Did you do the drain into one pan and fill out of another method?

I have a drain plug on my pan, and drained all I could which was about 1.25 gallons, then filled with 1.25 gallons of tractor oil. So its really probably a 60/40 mix now of tractor oil vs. ATF.
 
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