Powermaster thoughts

michael evans

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2008
With my Powermaster being stuck in North Carolina for who knows how long has me wondering if I should even install it or just convert it to ?

Car is low mile and not a daily driver and only comes out of the garage when it is nice outside.

Power brakes are nice but not required as my last car (1972 Skylark) had manual Wilwood brakes installed by me and stopped well.

Which way has everyone gone when swapping out the Powermaster ?

Who has a kit for swapping in the manual brakes ?

Does Casper's have end caps for the two plugs of the Powermaster like they do for some other plugs ?
 
With my Powermaster being stuck in North Carolina for who knows how long has me wondering if I should even install it or just convert it to ?

Car is low mile and not a daily driver and only comes out of the garage when it is nice outside.

Power brakes are nice but not required as my last car (1972 Skylark) had manual Wilwood brakes installed by me and stopped well.

Which way has everyone gone when swapping out the Powermaster ?

Who has a kit for swapping in the manual brakes ?

Does Casper's have end caps for the two plugs of the Powermaster like they do for some other plugs ?


You don't need a "kit" to swap to manual. The Powermaster uses the same pedal ratio as a manual setup. Wilwood's (or anybody's, really) 15/16" master is the right size for the stock calipers and most aftermarket calipers that fit the car, and it comes with the fittings to bolt right up to the stock lines. You'll need the Wilwood 330-13914 pushrod kit to connect the master to the stock pedal.
 
You don't need a "kit" to swap to manual. The Powermaster uses the same pedal ratio as a manual setup. Wilwood's (or anybody's, really) 15/16" master is the right size for the stock calipers and most aftermarket calipers that fit the car, and it comes with the fittings to bolt right up to the stock lines. You'll need the Wilwood 330-13914 pushrod kit to connect the master to the stock pedal.

I think that's wrong, did a lot of checking before and the pm brake pedal needed to be changed. The vacuum pedal has 2 holes and one is for manual setup. Just a slight variation in the ratio and it throws off the system to get best braking.
 
With my Powermaster being stuck in North Carolina for who knows how long has me wondering if I should even install it or just convert it to ?

Car is low mile and not a daily driver and only comes out of the garage when it is nice outside.

Power brakes are nice but not required as my last car (1972 Skylark) had manual Wilwood brakes installed by me and stopped well.

Which way has everyone gone when swapping out the Powermaster ?

Who has a kit for swapping in the manual brakes ?

Does Casper's have end caps for the two plugs of the Powermaster like they do for some other plugs ?

I just installed these. Can't beat the price for spindles, Wilwood calipers, drilled/slotted rotors and braided stainless cables. $600
This was done after ditched the Powermaster and went to TTA setup.
 
I think that's wrong, did a lot of checking before and the pm brake pedal needed to be changed. The vacuum pedal has 2 holes and one is for manual setup. Just a slight variation in the ratio and it throws off the system to get best braking.
Kirban sells a kit so you dont have to chase down a pedal at a junk yard. Then just toss the powermaster in a tote incase some purist has a deathwish. LOL
 
Normal Vac brakes is all you need if your street driving and not trying to build big boost at the line.
The powermaster when it works it works great but its really trying to kill ya in the end.
 
I already have front Wilwood and modified rear drum (7/8" cylinders).
 

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Kirban sells a kit so you dont have to chase down a pedal at a junk yard. Then just toss the powermaster in a tote incase some purist has a deathwish. LOL

Kirban's kit is iirc for the vacuum brake switch. Manual has to have the calipers changed out which is cheap also. What's nice about manual is you gain some space in the bay and about as simple a system as can be. Got a pedal about 18 months ago at the salvage yard for $5, lol, just in case to have it.
Stuck with the pm and had it rebuilt with new armature, accumulator, etc by RC. Worked great last year but took it out Saturday and the pressure switch was bad but its still the original gray recall one so got my moneys worth after 32 years.
 
I think that's wrong, did a lot of checking before and the pm brake pedal needed to be changed. The vacuum pedal has 2 holes and one is for manual setup. Just a slight variation in the ratio and it throws off the system to get best braking.

Yeah, I think you're reading too much on the internet and not talking to enough to people that have actually done it.

cropped-256A3756-ZF-0482-52433-1-001-001-1.jpg


I hit the pedal at 130mph right before this was taken. And this was with stock diameter front rotors and a 15/16" master using the firewall bracket and pedal from the Powermaster.

It'll work fine.
 
Yeah, I think you're reading too much on the internet and not talking to enough to people that have actually done it.

cropped-256A3756-ZF-0482-52433-1-001-001-1.jpg


I hit the pedal at 130mph right before this was taken. And this was with stock diameter front rotors and a 15/16" master using the firewall bracket and pedal from the Powermaster.

It'll work fine.

My bad, I just figured the guys that designed the parts to use knew what would work best with their combination.
 
You don't need a "kit" to swap to manual. The Powermaster uses the same pedal ratio as a manual setup. Wilwood's (or anybody's, really) 15/16" master is the right size for the stock calipers and most aftermarket calipers that fit the car, and it comes with the fittings to bolt right up to the stock lines. You'll need the Wilwood 330-13914 pushrod kit to connect the master to the stock pedal.


Wonder if anyone has tried this: Ford Universal Manual Master Cylinder Push Rod Kit | eBay

How long does the rod need to be ?
 
Kirban's kit is iirc for the vacuum brake switch. Manual has to have the calipers changed out which is cheap also. What's nice about manual is you gain some space in the bay and about as simple a system as can be. Got a pedal about 18 months ago at the salvage yard for $5, lol, just in case to have it.
Stuck with the pm and had it rebuilt with new armature, accumulator, etc by RC. Worked great last year but took it out Saturday and the pressure switch was bad but its still the original gray recall one so got my moneys worth.
 
If the powermaster was a viable system gm would have kept using it. They do on the other hand still use vac brakes and there are plenty of trucks with hydroboost still being produced.

I went hydroboost but vac is good too. Just have to make a choice and move forward.
 
What is the thoughts of replacing the pedal ?

How far is the stud from the pivot on the Powermaster ? How far is the hole (s)from the pivot on vacuum pedal ?
 
What is the thoughts of replacing the pedal ?

How far is the stud from the pivot on the Powermaster ? How far is the hole (s)from the pivot on vacuum pedal ?

The vacuum pedal uses the bottom pin hole for vacuum and the upper hole for manual and they're about 1.5" center hole to center hole.
 
What is the thoughts of replacing the pedal ?

How far is the stud from the pivot on the Powermaster ? How far is the hole (s)from the pivot on vacuum pedal ?
This is one of the main reasons I went to the hb. Sourcing a pedal , while isn't difficult, it adds another step to the process.
 
If the powermaster was a viable system gm would have kept using it. They do on the other hand still use vac brakes and there are plenty of trucks with hydroboost still being produced.

I went hydroboost but vac is good too. Just have to make a choice and move forward.

Jmho but think its a pretty decent system but people didn't know how to take care of and maintain them for quite a while. Like changing the fluid often.
 
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