Please help me, Downpipe question

[pacecarta]

biggest hurdle to performance is good fuel , whether you choose to run race fuel , ul100 or alky the fuel is important as it allows you to increase boost which is where the power is

you dont need anything more mechanically to run 12s other than good fuel , a good boost gauge and a way to be sure that nothing is wrong with the tune , ill say it again SCANMASTER and (optional) knock meter like caspers LED (its a real time detector)


as to the scanmaster being too slow , your mechanic must never have heard that chips can be burned for faster update wich will provide three times the rate of the std chip on the important data like O2s and KR, and ithe closer you try to push the cars tune to its edge the more important it becomes to be sure everything is doing its job , your O2s and knock meter will allow you to know and if there is knock then get off the gas and adjust the tune (more fuel/less boost and or less timing )

 

[Roc87]

I apologize for my past statement. This board has been nothing but helpful for me anyways. Most people will tell you that alky is the way to go, since you can basically run a Race fuel tune (Higher boost, higher timing) all the time without the expense of race fuel. Methanol is cheap, I paid a little over $3.50 a gallon last time. You never use it if you drive like an old lady. I made 3 pulls on the dyno, and used less than a 1/2 gallon. Razors alky is getting where it is the first mod after the fuel systems. If you don't want an alky kit, you're going to have to spend more on other parts that will not still get you as much as the alky.

There are some "Recipes" listed on GNTtype.org, the site seems to have problems, otherwise I'd post a link,

RJC racing also has some "recipes" listed.

FWIW, at 107k miles my STOCK GN, ran a 13.8 at elevation. I consider myself lucky that it didn't blow a headgasket, because I didn't have any way to monitor knock, and hadn't upgraded the fuel system. The way my car is set up right now, I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to the upcoming nationals in Bowling Green, which is around 1200 miles away, and it would still knock down at least 23/24mpg.

Some don't like the scanmaster because it is a little slow, but IMO, it's better than having to lug a laptop around for a fast update screen. A knock gauge will be quicker to show knock than the scanmaster, but it doesn't show as much info.

What kind of times do supras run on pump gas?

There are lots of guys running low 12's, even into the 11's on normal radials. I couldn't do it though, my slip looked more like a supra when I tried. 13.1@120, or something like that....

 

[ROYAL_6]

:biggrin:

Okay. I need to correct ALL you guys! I do about 80% of my own work on my cars...yes sir! Heck, come to my garage right now and you'll see an old LS1 engine bolted to my engine stand; I was building up for a big direct port NOS set up. I may soon be selling all that craps since I’ve stop messing with it and my wife is getting sick walking around it. You will also see old 5.0 parts that I had from when I used to tear open those little 302 motors to install cams (E303 or F303) Vortech blower (A, S then later a T trims) and so on. In fact, I still have a ported GT40 lower intake for sale if one of you want one...cheap! So no, I am NOT your typical vette owner who is afraid to get his or her hands dirty. I am a gear-head my friends, and don’t mind getting dirty if I have to. NO LIES!

Oh yeah and for the most part, I tune my own Vette as well. I said for the most part because GM keeps changing and revising the ECM files for the new C6 ECM's. You must have to invest a decent amount of money into your tuning software to keep up. So, I just do as much as I can with my little laptop and then hook up with couple of guys who own shops and borrow their files/cables and dyno machine for final adjustments.

I purchased a GN because I think they are one of the coolest looking cars in the world. I would trade my 4,000 miles C6 Z06 for clean low miles GNX in a Chicago minute...you best believe that jack! I had friends back in Chicago who owned and raced GN’s back in the day. However, many of those guys are now on the Chevy LS1/LS2 or LS7 camp. I haven’t called and ask them for help/advise mainly because those guys are long gone/remove from the GN scene…they are old school if you know what I mean. I do know that many of them used to ditch their GN PCM and run DFI set ups.

Look guys, all I am saying that I would like to see someone step up and give me your tried and true daily, drive from Chicago to Miami and back, run nice low 13’s or high 12’s on street meat killer combo. You know, the “Do’s and Dont’s” in order to achieve painless/worry free performance. Is that HARD? All you guys keep saying that it is NOT, so please give me your LIST…what’s up?

If any some of you came to me and ask me to give you a list of let's say 10 to 12 mods w/cost of what can be done to a LS1, 5.0 or Supra to achieve what I described above, I could sing it to you in my sleep and darn near guarantee you low 13's to high 12's w/o any worries of blowing up....OH YEAH. And, it would be accomplished with out racing fuel or worrying about whether or not is too hot outside ON street freaking tires! As a side note, Supras are pretty forgiving in the heat, where GN's are a little more sensitive.

Yes, I’ve read many of you guys’ bio, but if you were to look into it really deeply, you will see that EVERYONE has their own opinion about this and that. I am not in the mood of swapping parts just because so and so say this or that. I already lived through that back in the early 90’s with the Stang. Every body was trying to be Joe Amato and no one could run worth of damn. So I decided to do my own stuff and found darn near fail free, fast reliable combos. If you care, look into the 1997 July issue of “Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords”. I was one of the first guys in the country to run mid 10’s in the new at the time Street Renegade class, under very strict class rules. Best part, most of the work was done in MY GARAGE by ME and some friend who stopped by to help out here there when I did not have certain tool and so on. Again, I am not a Vette owner pansy…no no no! Not that all vette owners are, but I’ve seen ton of them in that community so I know where you guys may be coming from.

Again, sorry if I offended any of you guys, and I sincerely mean it. I love GN’s, I really do. I don’t know much about them and I want to learn, I just don’t want to blow a load of money on small return-on-investment parts.

Thanks.

well i just want to say is that i apoligize if i offended you.... but just read up... all this cars really need if FUEL, timming, and tunning... i drove my car al the way from california to colorado springs, colorado.. nothing but up and down hills all the way..... the elevation here is about 6,000 feet above sea level(give or take), but she runs fine..... all i can say is dont rush it.. take your time with it..... at the end you will appreciate all the time you spent learning and turning wrenches.... just a little patience...:biggrin: good luck....

 

[MyBoosta]

I apologize for my past statement. This board has been nothing but helpful for me anyways. Most people will tell you that alky is the way to go, since you can basically run a Race fuel tune (Higher boost, higher timing) all the time without the expense of race fuel. Methanol is cheap, I paid a little over $3.50 a gallon last time. You never use it if you drive like an old lady. I made 3 pulls on the dyno, and used less than a 1/2 gallon. Razors alky is getting where it is the first mod after the fuel systems. If you don't want an alky kit, you're going to have to spend more on other parts that will not still get you as much as the alky.

There are some "Recipes" listed on GNTtype.org, the site seems to have problems, otherwise I'd post a link,

RJC racing also has some "recipes" listed.

FWIW, at 107k miles my STOCK GN, ran a 13.8 at elevation. I consider myself lucky that it didn't blow a headgasket, because I didn't have any way to monitor knock, and hadn't upgraded the fuel system. The way my car is set up right now, I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to the upcoming nationals in Bowling Green, which is around 1200 miles away, and it would still knock down at least 23/24mpg.

Some don't like the scanmaster because it is a little slow, but IMO, it's better than having to lug a laptop around for a fast update screen. A knock gauge will be quicker to show knock than the scanmaster, but it doesn't show as much info.

What kind of times do supras run on pump gas?

There are lots of guys running low 12's, even into the 11's on normal radials. I couldn't do it though, my slip looked more like a supra when I tried. 13.1@120, or something like that....

Cool thanks Roc87.

My old Supra ran 12.70's on stock GY's, 93 oct, AUTOMATIC to boot, cold air kit and a little bit of tuning w/2 extra Psi and that was it. She ran like that day in and day out summer or winter it didn't matter. And on the hwy, forget it about...it was gone! 170mph gone, that was fast back then (mid 90's):smile:

Thanks

 

[thejanster]

I ported mine very easy with a air die grinder :smile:

 

[DAnton]

I just went with GN1 (*******************) downpipe. I went external WG but they also have internal WG models. I did the SS with muffler flange and dump with header (three bolt) connection. I will be taking off a BGC and 3 inch SS set up, and what you should see is faster spool up, less back pressure. If you want my old unit it will be cheap, I have enough junk in the garage already.

'87 GN Do you still have the GNX 8 gauges cluster for sale?

 

[turbojimmy]

Look guys, all I am saying that I would like to see someone step up and give me your tried and true daily, drive from Chicago to Miami and back, run nice low 13’s or high 12’s on street meat killer combo. You know, the “Do’s and Dont’s” in order to achieve painless/worry free performance. Is it a HARD? All you guys keep saying that it is NOT, so please give me your LIST…what’s up?

Someone did that very early on in this thread but you continue to ask. Recipes are here:

Turbo Buick Performance Build Ups/Recipes

You can build a very reliable, streetable GN at any ET level you'd like. You just have to educate yourself and spend a little money. My car is a solid high-11 second car that I drive to work once in awhile, go to cruise nights and take to the track a couple of times a year. If I push it real hard it will run low 11s. It's not finicky at all. Once it's set up properly you don't have to mess with it at all (unless someone runs it out of alcohol and blows the engine apart - just don't let anyone else drive it).

Jim