I think Quick6'n'
Please help me, Downpipe question
- Thread starter MyBoosta
- Start date
I think Quick6'n'-KC ( any body correct me if im wrong) said he ran 11.76 @114.62. with stock turbo, injectors, throttle body, ech... check out his mods on the TIme slip section... so im sure your car can go easyly go into 12's even low 12's with the proper tunnig.... there ae guys here that are runnig into 11's with little to minor mods.. just read up... and about the headers or DP, i say DP.... and now and days you can find a set of headers for about 200 bucks, vs when i got mine, i paid about 600-650 dollars....
Thanks brotha Pacecarta,
Here is the thing, if my car is only a to and from dinner car, a visitor to car shows and maybe just maybe a visit to the track 2 to 3 times a year, do I really need to buy an Alky system, big downpipes, scanmaster and so on?
99% of the mods on the car were there when I bought it, so now I find myself either in this situation: adding a little to what I already there to finish he off (possibly cheaper to do). OR take her back to stock (possibly costing more).
Again, how much tuning do you need to do with these cars once they are tuned? I mean, are these cars THAT finicky?
Why can I get this bad boy tuned, with a little bit of bolt-ons here and there and freaking drive it like used to do with my 2001 LS1 Formula? Once that Pontiac was tuned, all I had to do was insert key, add gas (93 oct), keep her in good running order and put in D and go...! Booyaa...low to mid 13's ALL DAY long on regular goodyears. AND high 12's to low 13's on old used up DR's...ALL DAY LONG:smile: Sorry if I sound a little frustrated...but I am. I did not realized that these GN's were that tempermental to so many variables. Hell, I just heard the other day that gas at the pump (10% ethanol blend) does not help these GN's either. Now I need to run as much racing fuel as possible for best performance or at least to be in par to my old LS1. Dude, what's next?
Thanks
JOELO'S T-TYPE
Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2006
I see that you must be really upset, but I'm not so sure about the race fuel only thing. My car used to feel much faster that my friend's wrx when we went to the drag strip and the subaru ran low 12's all night, but I did have some traction issues compared to him. I just can't accept that my car needs race gas to run 12's. Tuning is very important in everything, specially in turbocharged cars but our cars are not dyno queens like others. Mine right now is sitting on my garage waiting for me to have some time to work on him, but I know there was 12 seconds performance every day when I decided to start working on it and when I'm done, there will be much more daily driven power than before.
JOELO'S T-TYPE
Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2006
I havent tried it, but I've read a lot about alky and it seems it can do wonders on our cars. If I'm correct it's a great bang for the buck and I'd have the DP already installed in your car, I'm pretty sure that you'll fell the difference in the famous "seat of the pants dyno".
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
add a turbo to your ls1 and see how much tuning is important
while it is possible to jsut get in and go on 93 octane and be able to just drop you're foot to the floor like you say , youll be doing it with about 17 degrees timing and 14# of boost , without a scanmaster you would never know your knocking due to too much timing and this goes for 93 or whatever you choose to run . race gas without timong and boost increase is a waste of fuel and youll actually run slower if you werer running without knock before the race fuel , youll either need to learn to tune the chip you have (which will work fine ) or have a seperate chip dialed in and hope that day all the stars are alained in your favor .
now there is more (much more) to be gotten from these cars with more boost and timing and you'll be able to look at the scanmaster and based on o2s and knock determine if you need more fuel or less boost /timing to get that much closer to its peak potential without going over the edge.
If 13s or so is ok that can be gotten with stock and tuning (these were 14.3 off showroom) you want 12s that wont happen on 93 alone without a really good tune or bigger turbo at lower boost , and tune can change with weather which is why you need to be the one watching for knock
and alky is an almost invisible system , it stays on and does it thing , doesnt spray till you need it under boost conditions and allows for running pump gas without fear of what they are pumping in your tank that day and no lead fouled plugs or o2 sensors and be able to run upwards of 25psi with more timing (see the alky forum here and read the sticky on tuning which alot of the ideas apply whether running alky or not.
lots of guys here have gone the ls1 route for the same reasons you state and many more but theres so much info available to guide you on the learning and in the end the little 6 tuned will womp the LS1 and even the z06 all day long
while it is possible to jsut get in and go on 93 octane and be able to just drop you're foot to the floor like you say , youll be doing it with about 17 degrees timing and 14# of boost , without a scanmaster you would never know your knocking due to too much timing and this goes for 93 or whatever you choose to run . race gas without timong and boost increase is a waste of fuel and youll actually run slower if you werer running without knock before the race fuel , youll either need to learn to tune the chip you have (which will work fine ) or have a seperate chip dialed in and hope that day all the stars are alained in your favor .
now there is more (much more) to be gotten from these cars with more boost and timing and you'll be able to look at the scanmaster and based on o2s and knock determine if you need more fuel or less boost /timing to get that much closer to its peak potential without going over the edge.
If 13s or so is ok that can be gotten with stock and tuning (these were 14.3 off showroom) you want 12s that wont happen on 93 alone without a really good tune or bigger turbo at lower boost , and tune can change with weather which is why you need to be the one watching for knock
and alky is an almost invisible system , it stays on and does it thing , doesnt spray till you need it under boost conditions and allows for running pump gas without fear of what they are pumping in your tank that day and no lead fouled plugs or o2 sensors and be able to run upwards of 25psi with more timing (see the alky forum here and read the sticky on tuning which alot of the ideas apply whether running alky or not.
lots of guys here have gone the ls1 route for the same reasons you state and many more but theres so much info available to guide you on the learning and in the end the little 6 tuned will womp the LS1 and even the z06 all day long
Okay my friend. I know that my frustration has filtered through this thread and mainly because I have a lot to learn about this wonderful power plant. However, I did not realize how finicky these little cars are. Yes, I owned Turbo applications in the past: Supra, Talon TSi and two Supercharged 5.0’s, and while those car required more TLC than my N/A or NOS applications; they were NOT as picky as these GN’s seem to be.
It seems to me that in order to have a GN “womp” on a LS1 day in and day out, it better have bigger this, sticky tires that, different turbo this, fuel that and/or alky this. Trust me when I tell ya, it is very easy to go 12’s with a LS1 applications with less worries of hurting something versus these GN applications. I could be wrong, but all I see and read is that GN’s can blow a gasket if you don’t baby it with all kinds of tuning measurements and so on (finicky). Is like, I need to live with a weather man knowing what is going on outside before I pull her out the garage and then put my foot in it…what a drag!
Please don’t get wrong, I like GN’s, I think they are cool but dayum, I didn’t know that I have to live with a touchy son of a gun. Granted, GN’s are 80’s technology versus late 90’s to 2000 automotive techno, and I’ve realized that; maybe I’m asking for too much.
As far a racing these GN’s versus other applications, be careful with your statement. I currently own a 2006 C6 Z06 and that thing is a beast; bone stock on street tires it ran 11.38@126mph. Now, with a couple of bolt-ons and NOS (100 shot) she ran 9.88@141 with old DR’s. Yeah, it’s a lot more car than the GN; you will need to have your GN super hooked up to compare it to the ¼ mile performance and potential levels of the new Z06.
Now do you see why I don’t want to turn this GN into a ¼ mile track car? I already have something that can send about 90% of street racers home to mommy. I just want my GN to be able to run fast enough w/o worrying about some freaking (alky this, or scanmaster that, or racing fuel this and so on). Heck man, can I dispose many of those little 13sec Neon’s/Cobalt SS/ new 4.6 Stangs and some 350Z with having to break a mini-bank to do it. No, money is not a problem, but I don’t like worrying about a head gasket every time I want to nail the gas…get my drift?
So, you could be telling me that: I can’t have a low miles (26,7xx in my case) pretty much stock GN that is getting tune well and just freaking drive it? Then be fast enough to handle it’s business as stated above and NOT have to worry about she is going to throw a gasket, or what that gas station down the street has (E85 or ethanol blend), is it too humid outside, and the list goes on. It sounds that I have to retune this car with this scanmaster thingy every one talks about just about every freaking time the weather changes…correct?
Heck, I may be selling a clean low miles GN and then go back to an easier platform to live with!
Again, I don’t hate GN’s now, but dayum, it seems that to run some mid to low 13’s you have to be too freaking careful. How much fun is that? How do you guys do it day in and day out? :frown:
Thanks.
I currently own a 2006 C6 Z06 and that thing is a beast; bone stock on street tires it ran 11.38@126mph. Now, with a couple of bolt-ons and NOS (100 shot) she ran 9.88@141 with old DR’s. Yeah, it’s a lot more car than the GN; you will need to have your GN super hooked up to compare it to the ¼ mile performance and potential levels of the new Z06.
Lets not forget we are comparing a new $75,000 Supercar to a 20yr old Grand National. :wink:
The Buick 3.8 Turbo engine is not "finicky". It may be a little less tolerant of ignorant and uneducated changes, but it is far from "finicky" when you consider that many guys are running 27-30lbs of boost on factory stock head gaskets.
I agree with ya brotha yullose, those two cars are totally different.
Okay how about this: can some one give me a good TRUE & TRIED combo for these GN's. I read the GNttype.org recipes and most of it is geared towards 1/4 mile racing applications.
How abou a "HEY", tried these things and you should be in the mid to low 13's providing the mill is in good running order.
Back in my 5.0 Stang days we had a list of things to do that darn near guaranteed 13's providing the driver could drive. Things like: a short accys belt, removed air silencer/install CAI kit, short shifter, bump up timing to 13* to 16*, adjust TPS, remove MAF screen, re-route TB coolant line, H-pipe (no cats), good tuning (plugs/ brass terminal cap & rotor/ good plug wires) and this and that...you see what I mean?
Those little things to a good running 5.0 Stang 9 times out of 10 resulted in a 13sec (13.6 to 13.7 @100) car on street rubber! AND we didn't worry about 02 readings this or headgasket that! Just run a good tank of 93 oct fuel and your Stang was running mid to low 13's(with good shoes) all day/night LONG. Heck, now I see why we were beating up on GN's back then (late 80's early 90's). Yes GN's were fast, but one minute they'll run some good 13's or even 12's and the next minute the could run a full .5 slower.... to me that's finicky! Heck, a 5.0 with slicks and a good clutch and with the things I mentioned above in addition to removing the front sway bar and spare tire could easily dip into the very low 13's and even high 12's ON PUMP GAS with good driving/traction and cool air without any worries...yes sir!
Now, can a GN do this? and if so HOW? please give me your true and tried almost guaranteed mid to possibly low 13's day in day set up
Thanks:wink:
Hell, I think a bone stock GN with a K&N filter, Turbotweak chip and adjustrable WG actuator should easily run low 13's without even trying.
They do however, run a WHOLE lot better with a fresh set of injectors and better flowing turbo. The difference is night and day.
A perfect example.
My '86 T-type was literally BONE STOCK, with a set of MSD50's, Turbo Tweak chip, race gas and about 20psi boost on the stock turbo when I first took it to the track. I only got one run in that night, and it went 12.82. (I forget the MPH)
The same car with a TE62 turbo and mismatched (stock turbo) chip, went 12.25 @ 112 leaving with zero boost. Added a dash of nitrous, and it went 11.15 @ 121. That was with the bone stock trans, stock rear, suspension, etc...
There is TONS of potential in these cars. You just gotta peg the right combination of parts that work well together.
They do however, run a WHOLE lot better with a fresh set of injectors and better flowing turbo. The difference is night and day.
A perfect example.
My '86 T-type was literally BONE STOCK, with a set of MSD50's, Turbo Tweak chip, race gas and about 20psi boost on the stock turbo when I first took it to the track. I only got one run in that night, and it went 12.82. (I forget the MPH)
The same car with a TE62 turbo and mismatched (stock turbo) chip, went 12.25 @ 112 leaving with zero boost. Added a dash of nitrous, and it went 11.15 @ 121. That was with the bone stock trans, stock rear, suspension, etc...
There is TONS of potential in these cars. You just gotta peg the right combination of parts that work well together.
Hell, I think a bone stock GN with a K&N filter, Turbotweak chip and adjustrable WG actuator should easily run low 13's without even trying.
They do however, run a WHOLE lot better with a fresh set of injectors and better flowing turbo. The difference is night and day.
A perfect example.
My '86 T-type was literally BONE STOCK, with a set of MSD50's, Turbo Tweak chip, race gas and about 20psi boost on the stock turbo when I first took it to the track. I only got one run in that night, and it went 12.82. (I forget the MPH)
The same car with a TE62 turbo and mismatched (stock turbo) chip, went 12.25 @ 112 leaving with zero boost. Added a dash of nitrous, and it went 11.15 @ 121. That was with the bone stock trans, stock rear, suspension, etc...
There is TONS of potential in these cars. You just gotta peg the right combination of parts that work well together.
Fair enough. However, if it was so easy, then why couldn't those GN boys do what you described back in the day? A street car running 12.80's in the late 80's or even early 90's was flying! That type of ET would have sent many 5.0 and 5.7 Irocs guys crying home to mommy?:biggrin:
Wait; there were NO TT chips back then. I remember seeing guys slapping on Dutt or Armstrong chips. Yes, GN's have a lot of potential but it seems that it comes with a price; you must be very...very careful with them or else you'll have blown head gaskets.
I do recall seeing a ton of you guys back in my Mustang VS GN wars blowing up gaskets like nothing. Again, I like GN's and I respect them for what they represent; they were ahead of their time back then. I simply was not aware of their very touchy nature that's all. Heck, now I'm afraid to touch mine (little mods). I live in Texas and it gets really HOT here; my approach to modding this little mill would have been a little different if I was still living in Chicago. So, comes July here in Texas I will have to live with a low 15sec car while running the AC...right?
Again, Stangs were not as picky in the heat as these GN's seem to be. Wait, sorry, this is not a fair comparison because ANY forced induction vehicle (except nitrous) will suffer more in the heat over any naturally aspirated application.
Please give me your TRUE & TRIED list of mods for a GN. You know, something an average GN Joe like me can do or buy to run solid high 13 to mid 13’s with heat or no heat.
Thanks
Lets see, I'm backwards here, a shop here was trying to sell me on $2000 headers for my Vette, and I asked him why would I dump that kind of money on headers when I already have an 11 second car? I've been wringing out my GN for over 45k miles, it's engine is bone stock, cam, heads, hg's , crank, EVERYTHING but valvesprings & timing chain. There is a GN here in town that ran mid 12's back in the late 80's and very early 90's at this elevation (5300) he won many bracket races, he was trying to be consistent, not just run the times. It was with a stock turbo, stock intercooler, pretty high timing and around 20psi. Yeah, it was on C16. The current owner of that GN has recently put in Razors alky kit and slowly working on attaining the same tune as it was on with C16.
You ask a tried and true combo for high 13's? With it running correctly, it should already be there. First and foremost, address the fuel system. You need a walbro fuel pump, a hot wire kit, decent injectors, and A SCANMASTER. (There's plenty of guys on corvetteforum that have FI that have someway of monitoring knock, and a bunch of them like Razors alky kit, although most guys on there order it from ECS, and just call it the ECS alky kit)
From there add Razors alky kit, a matching turbotweak chip, perhaps a duttweiler neck stock intercooler (Can find used for less than $120), maybe a RJC powerplate. With those items you should be low 12's without pushing the engine all that hard.
Oh, and the guy selling the BGC downpipe, that seems like a good downpipe for the price. Sure it's older technology, but it's a lot better than the postons 3" downpipe (I had one).
You ask a tried and true combo for high 13's? With it running correctly, it should already be there. First and foremost, address the fuel system. You need a walbro fuel pump, a hot wire kit, decent injectors, and A SCANMASTER. (There's plenty of guys on corvetteforum that have FI that have someway of monitoring knock, and a bunch of them like Razors alky kit, although most guys on there order it from ECS, and just call it the ECS alky kit)
From there add Razors alky kit, a matching turbotweak chip, perhaps a duttweiler neck stock intercooler (Can find used for less than $120), maybe a RJC powerplate. With those items you should be low 12's without pushing the engine all that hard.
Oh, and the guy selling the BGC downpipe, that seems like a good downpipe for the price. Sure it's older technology, but it's a lot better than the postons 3" downpipe (I had one).
thejanster
Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2006
thats only if you dont port it!
BlackMetal
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
That's exactly what I was going to suggest. I bought a cheap-o downpipe from Kirban that didn't replace the stock elbow, but I then bought a ported elbow from someone that I'm still waiting to install. It'd probably be fairly easy to take it to some sort of machine shop and tell them to port it for you.
Mr Roc87,
I already have a 340 walboro fuel pump with a hot wired kit and 50lbs injectors with a 3” MAF and I just received my Turbo Tweak chip to replace the Extender chip that came with the car. It also had a T+ and I just added a FP reg. Last November the car dyno 246/308 even though it was a little lean and the driver side header was leaking, and that was w/o a fuel pressure reg.
The car is currently getting the chip install, the header leak fixed and a super tune. Before it went in for these repairs, it did not feel like a 13sec car to me. However, how much that leak, the lack of a FP reg and not having a super tune on it hurt performance? The guys at the shop called me and asked me if I wanted to install a DP since the car would be soon. They commented that now would be a good time to install a DP so it can all be tune and adjusted at the same time.
That is why I came in here and asked about the DP question seeking for answers, seeing if doing this would yield any substantial gains considering my set up (see set up on above replies).
Yes, I would like to run low 13’s high 12’s, but it seems that every one have their own little way of getting there. DO YOU GUYS HAVE A TRIED & TRUE list of mods that can yield the type of performance I’ve been asking for these last three days?
I even had people tell me that this Scanmaster tool every one raves about is okay, but it is too slow and it really can’t help me tune as easily as many here make it sound. I just want too drive this freaking car around, have it run low 13’s (or high 12’s) with out all the BULL CRAP about racing fuel, Alky systems, Scanmaster and having to drive around 95% of the time with DR’s or slicks!
If this is not possible with GN’s, then PLEASE some one say so.
I guess I’m so used to driving muscle/sports cars as daily drivers that ran high 12’s to low 13’s ALL DAY LONG day in and day out year round on 93oct gas, street tires with out any freaking scanmaster, racing fuel or slicks!
Should I just sell this car and seek what I want from another platform? Going back to an LS1 f-body, Supra or worse case, a clean 5.0 Stang is looking more and more like the way I should go.
Sorry for my outburst, but this GN modding crap and my ignorance are pushing my limits of sanity.
Thanks
I already have a 340 walboro fuel pump with a hot wired kit and 50lbs injectors with a 3” MAF and I just received my Turbo Tweak chip to replace the Extender chip that came with the car. It also had a T+ and I just added a FP reg. Last November the car dyno 246/308 even though it was a little lean and the driver side header was leaking, and that was w/o a fuel pressure reg.
The car is currently getting the chip install, the header leak fixed and a super tune. Before it went in for these repairs, it did not feel like a 13sec car to me. However, how much that leak, the lack of a FP reg and not having a super tune on it hurt performance? The guys at the shop called me and asked me if I wanted to install a DP since the car would be soon. They commented that now would be a good time to install a DP so it can all be tune and adjusted at the same time.
That is why I came in here and asked about the DP question seeking for answers, seeing if doing this would yield any substantial gains considering my set up (see set up on above replies).
Yes, I would like to run low 13’s high 12’s, but it seems that every one have their own little way of getting there. DO YOU GUYS HAVE A TRIED & TRUE list of mods that can yield the type of performance I’ve been asking for these last three days?
I even had people tell me that this Scanmaster tool every one raves about is okay, but it is too slow and it really can’t help me tune as easily as many here make it sound. I just want too drive this freaking car around, have it run low 13’s (or high 12’s) with out all the BULL CRAP about racing fuel, Alky systems, Scanmaster and having to drive around 95% of the time with DR’s or slicks!
If this is not possible with GN’s, then PLEASE some one say so.
I guess I’m so used to driving muscle/sports cars as daily drivers that ran high 12’s to low 13’s ALL DAY LONG day in and day out year round on 93oct gas, street tires with out any freaking scanmaster, racing fuel or slicks!
Should I just sell this car and seek what I want from another platform? Going back to an LS1 f-body, Supra or worse case, a clean 5.0 Stang is looking more and more like the way I should go.
Sorry for my outburst, but this GN modding crap and my ignorance are pushing my limits of sanity.
Thanks
i think you are making things to complicated... you are making things more difficult than they really are.. im no Buick Guru, but i know what this car's are capable of.. by the sounds of it, you dont work on your own cars( correct me if im wrong please), wich is making it more of a headache than you really want.. i think you are just to use to V8 power.. that instant throttle response.. i use to own a 1995 T/A.. fully ported aluminum heads, gears, center force, and accouple of other bolt on's.. the thing would go side ways on me every time i hit the throttle ..getting that instant torq.. but i still isnt any competition for my Buick.. Lots of this guys and maybe all of the Buick owners built this car's because they love them.. every one has there own reson why they are building a Buick V6 Turbo, and not a Big Block Chevy or Ford.. you can make any car fast... it sounds like you just picked up the GN because you might of seen acoupple of them at the race track. Or maybe like every one else ,you heard story's of this wild animals with V6 T's in them.. and wanted one... (Thats what i love about this cars.. All the story's.. they are like a myth's and legends... ) I say if you arent happy with the car, sell it.. simple as that.. built something you really want.... But nothing comes easy.. I have ran into many problems with my TR, but I love working on the thing when it breaks down.. gives me a chance to get my hands dirty and learn more about the car.. know what i meen... take your time with it... once you have the car runnig right, all you have to do is hold on to your dear life..:biggrin: .. but that exhaust leak is robbing you from power.. get it fixed.. it creates more turbo lag... so have patience and read read read.... you can get that car running into the 12's no problem.....:biggrin: :biggrin:
) I say if you arent happy with the car, sell it.. simple as that.. built something you really want.... But nothing comes easy.. I have ran into many problems with my TR, but I love working on the thing when it breaks down.. gives me a chance to get my hands dirty and learn more about the car.. know what i meen... take your time with it... once you have the car runnig right, all you have to do is hold on to your dear life..:biggrin: .. but that exhaust leak is robbing you from power.. get it fixed.. it creates more turbo lag... so have patience and read read read.... you can get that car running into the 12's no problem.....:biggrin: :biggrin:What you are asking for, is like asking for directions from NYC to LA.
Do your own homework, read the forums and look at the sig info in everyones posts.
What you've obviously failed to see in the replies is, you don't need to do anything to your car to get the numbers you're after. It should already be capable of running them... If it's not, then you need to fix whatever is wrong with your car.
If your not willing to do any of this, maybe you should just stick to your Z06. Your ego, mechanical ability and attitude seem to be better suited to the 'Vette anyway.
perhaps a mustang
. forgive us all for trying to help you out. Like there's not a bunch of different opinions of what to do to a vette to make it faster. Maybe I should sell the vette since I actually do my own work and tuning
don't want to be associated with that attitude......Let us know when you blow up the C6 Z06 with all the nitrous since you can't tune anything.
Okay. I need to correct ALL you guys! I do about 80% of my own work on my cars...yes sir! Heck, come to my garage right now and you'll see an old LS1 engine bolted to my engine stand; I was building up for a big direct port NOS set up. I may soon be selling all that craps since I’ve stop messing with it and my wife is getting sick walking around it. You will also see old 5.0 parts that I had from when I used to tear open those little 302 motors to install cams (E303 or F303) Vortech blower (A, S then later a T trims) and so on. In fact, I still have a ported GT40 lower intake for sale if one of you want one...cheap! So no, I am NOT your typical vette owner who is afraid to get his or her hands dirty. I am a gear-head my friends, and don’t mind getting dirty if I have to. NO LIES!
Oh yeah and for the most part, I tune my own Vette as well. I said for the most part because GM keeps changing and revising the ECM files for the new C6 ECM's. You must have to invest a decent amount of money into your tuning software to keep up. So, I just do as much as I can with my little laptop and then hook up with couple of guys who own shops and borrow their files/cables and dyno machine for final adjustments.
I purchased a GN because I think they are one of the coolest looking cars in the world. I would trade my 4,000 miles C6 Z06 for clean low miles GNX in a Chicago minute...you best believe that jack! I had friends back in Chicago who owned and raced GN’s back in the day. However, many of those guys are now on the Chevy LS1/LS2 or LS7 camp. I haven’t called and ask them for help/advise mainly because those guys are long gone/remove from the GN scene…they are old school if you know what I mean. I do know that many of them used to ditch their GN PCM and run DFI set ups.
Look guys, all I am saying that I would like to see someone step up and give me your tried and true daily, drive from Chicago to Miami and back, run nice low 13’s or high 12’s on street meat killer combo. You know, the “Do’s and Dont’s” in order to achieve painless/worry free performance. Is it a HARD? All you guys keep saying that it is NOT, so please give me your LIST…what’s up?
If any some of you came to me and ask me to give you a list of let's say 10 to 12 mods w/cost of what can be done to a LS1, 5.0 or Supra to achieve what I described above, I could sing it to you in my sleep and darn near guarantee you low 13's to high 12's w/o any worries of blowing up....OH YEAH. And, it would be accomplished with out racing fuel or worrying about whether or not is too hot outside ON street freaking tires! As a side note, Supras are pretty forgiving in the heat, where GN's are a little more sensitive.
Yes, I’ve read many of you guys’ bio, but if you were to look into it really deeply, you will see that EVERYONE has their own opinion about this and that. I am not in the mood of swapping parts just because so and so say this or that. I already lived through that back in the early 90’s with the Stang. Every body was trying to be Joe Amato and no one could run worth of damn. So I decided to do my own stuff and found darn near fail free, fast reliable combos. If you care, look into the 1997 July issue of “Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords”. I was one of the first guys in the country to run mid 10’s in the new at the time Street Renegade class, under very strict class rules. Best part, most of the work was done in MY GARAGE by ME and some friend who stopped by to help out here there when I did not have certain tool and so on. Again, I am not a Vette owner pansy…no no no! Not that all vette owners are, but I’ve seen ton of them in that community so I know where you guys may be coming from.
Again, sorry if I offended any of you guys, and I sincerely mean it. I love GN’s, I really do. I don’t know much about them and I want to learn, I just don’t want to blow a load of money on small return-on-investment parts.
Thanks.
Oh yeah and for the most part, I tune my own Vette as well. I said for the most part because GM keeps changing and revising the ECM files for the new C6 ECM's. You must have to invest a decent amount of money into your tuning software to keep up. So, I just do as much as I can with my little laptop and then hook up with couple of guys who own shops and borrow their files/cables and dyno machine for final adjustments.
I purchased a GN because I think they are one of the coolest looking cars in the world. I would trade my 4,000 miles C6 Z06 for clean low miles GNX in a Chicago minute...you best believe that jack! I had friends back in Chicago who owned and raced GN’s back in the day. However, many of those guys are now on the Chevy LS1/LS2 or LS7 camp. I haven’t called and ask them for help/advise mainly because those guys are long gone/remove from the GN scene…they are old school if you know what I mean. I do know that many of them used to ditch their GN PCM and run DFI set ups.
Look guys, all I am saying that I would like to see someone step up and give me your tried and true daily, drive from Chicago to Miami and back, run nice low 13’s or high 12’s on street meat killer combo. You know, the “Do’s and Dont’s” in order to achieve painless/worry free performance. Is it a HARD? All you guys keep saying that it is NOT, so please give me your LIST…what’s up?
If any some of you came to me and ask me to give you a list of let's say 10 to 12 mods w/cost of what can be done to a LS1, 5.0 or Supra to achieve what I described above, I could sing it to you in my sleep and darn near guarantee you low 13's to high 12's w/o any worries of blowing up....OH YEAH. And, it would be accomplished with out racing fuel or worrying about whether or not is too hot outside ON street freaking tires! As a side note, Supras are pretty forgiving in the heat, where GN's are a little more sensitive.
Yes, I’ve read many of you guys’ bio, but if you were to look into it really deeply, you will see that EVERYONE has their own opinion about this and that. I am not in the mood of swapping parts just because so and so say this or that. I already lived through that back in the early 90’s with the Stang. Every body was trying to be Joe Amato and no one could run worth of damn. So I decided to do my own stuff and found darn near fail free, fast reliable combos. If you care, look into the 1997 July issue of “Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords”. I was one of the first guys in the country to run mid 10’s in the new at the time Street Renegade class, under very strict class rules. Best part, most of the work was done in MY GARAGE by ME and some friend who stopped by to help out here there when I did not have certain tool and so on. Again, I am not a Vette owner pansy…no no no! Not that all vette owners are, but I’ve seen ton of them in that community so I know where you guys may be coming from.
Again, sorry if I offended any of you guys, and I sincerely mean it. I love GN’s, I really do. I don’t know much about them and I want to learn, I just don’t want to blow a load of money on small return-on-investment parts.
Thanks.
