Please educate me on MAF's, stock, upgrade, translators, ls1, lt1

[bluehair]

I recently tried to install a ATR polished maf pipe to my stock maf and k&n filter cone. in doing so I noticed that one screen had been removed and the other screen torward the filter had 4 big holes poked in it like a size of a pencil. Also noticed that the maf housing is cracked and or missing a piece or two where the hose clamps on...therefore seems like it is time for a new replacement.

This is where my questions and lack of knowledge come into play.

Backing up a few steps....my car has the following upgrades/additions 86 buick gn stock internals, block...
TA49 turbo, 3" downpipe, 45# injectors, volt booster, stock intercooler, dual exhaust, stock black flex hose from turbo to stock maf to k&n cone filter. Turbotweak 5.7 chip for 93 octane, currently running 15-16 lbs boost pump gas. My plans are to add an razors alky kit in a few months or this winter, and run about 22-25 lbs of boost on pump gas.

So suggestions on what to do about maf? I have searched on here, googled, binged, asked turbo guru's etc.. just want to see what you guys have done in past and worked for you? I don't want to over complicate things and I like things simple...hence I tune with a tt chip and scanmaster...

a) should I just replace with a rebuilt stock maf from a donor car or company who sells rehabs(hard to find)
b) replace with a maf translator and lt1 or ls1 maf?? need more info on this mod if its good, bad, gains, etc...
c) do I need both screens in maf? is it hurting that one screen was removed and other holes poked in...car seems to run fine but ive heard its not good to not have correct maf readings for some add ons....
d) what is or does an alky kit require of the maf....does the alky kit come with what I need or I still need a stock maf?

basically I have owned 4 turbo regals and have never messed with anything maf, pipes to and from, filters etc...all that has usually been in working good order so I never messed with it.
any help you guys can add, suggestions, what is good bad etc..would be awesome.

thanks.
uncle don

 

[trixdout]

The stock maf can't flow as much as an lt1 or ls1. So that is a gain right there. Lt1 mafs are much cheaper, readily available (junkyard), and don't break as often as the stocker. Unless you plan on keeping the car mostly original get a maf translator.

Now depending on how much tuning you plan on doing will tell you which translator to get. If you go to fullthrottletech.com, you can read up on the translators. Even open up the instruction manuals that are downloadable and see how many adjustments each one is capable of.


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[bluehair]

I will do that thanks. no to worried about keeping it stock...just want it to run its full potential with what I got with mild upgrades.

 

[Pronto]

NOS mafs are expensive if you can find one. Aftermarket ones are extremely hit or miss, mostly miss. For you, the Translator and a LT1 maf would be just fine. Open box, flip a couple switches and plug and play. Pretty simple.

 

[earlbrown]

With the invention of the translator there is absolutely no reason to have a stock or stock replacement MAF on these cars.

 

[bluehair]

DULY NOTED, and will be changing mine out soon.... do they make a "kit" that would include everything I need? from maf pipe to translator to lt1 maf, cone filter...the hole shabang?
if so any suggestions on which ones work best? like back in the day I used to put "bbk cold air kits" on mustangs...they came with everything you needed etc.. just curious.

 

[Mike Licht]

We can supply you with everything you need, give us a call
Mike

 

[TurboDave]

Agreed, call Mike, he'll get you set up!

 

[trixdout]

Agreed, call Mike, he'll get you set up!

I second calling Mike. No need to go to anyone else.

 

[bluehair]

an entire kit? hoses, pipe, clamps, lt1 maf, cone filter, translator? whats a kit like that usually cost? I didn't see all components when I searched these guys up a few threads website....

 

[TurboDave]

Not as a kit like what you're wanting, but they do have all the parts to set you up.

 

[GNICETRY]

With the invention of the translator there is absolutely no reason to have a stock or stock replacement MAF on these cars.

AMEN!

 

[HouTX87]

LT1 maf is 3" , LS1 maf is 3.5" ... Both work well but one may fit your intake setup better. I have a 3.5" intake so I went with the LS1 and basic translator and haven't looked back. My stock maf is still good too. I'd also suggest taking off the volt booster when you install alky.

 

[Buick Mark]

Your car will run TONS better, the drivability with the translator is WORLDS AHEAD of the '87 tech for sure

 

[bluehair]

more info and explain on why take off the volt booster if I install alky?? fist of heard...im not doubting you just learning.

does the maf and translator make that much difference? more power? or just better boost? or smoother ride? etc...
either way I need to updgrade soon, no since going back with original parts...

 

[earlbrown]

If you hop in my time machine and go back to 1987 and buy a car, the MAF will be iffy to start with. As they're subjected to heat cycles, vibrations, K&N oil residue, etc... they tend to lose resolution over time. They've been discontinued long enough that pretty much all stock units in use should be considered 'iffy'.

GM improved the hell out of the sensor when they redesigned it to the more modern style. It's more robust and seems to stay in calibration. (and if it does move, it's a simple twist of a knob in the translator box to move the output fueling). It seems like I recall a bunch of people losing wheelspin knock too from the faster response rate.

The only downside to the conversion is actually buying the unit. On the upside, the translator isn't a wear item and after you buy it once, you're DONE. There aren't many parts we can buy for the cars that work from stock all the way to pretty damn hot.

 

[HouTX87]

There have been mixed opinions about running volt boosters period, not to mention with alky. Rather than experiment with tuning the alky around the volt booster I decided to remove mine and I installed a ccci ignition hotwire from caspers. I also replaced my battery cables, new from caspers.

 

[DavidM]

I installed my LS1 MAF and basic Translator setup last night. I drove it for a few miles and I could tell the difference right away. The ECM does a better job at keeping AFR at 14.7. Throttle response is a little quicker and alot smoother. Idle is smoother as well.
Thanks Earl and John!