I'll be stripping my 86 T this Summer to bare metal, smoothing dings, blocking prep, primmering with Epoxy Primer, and full paint. I don't want to use any water cleaning solutions because of surface rusting etc. Any painters on board that might have any suggestions. A white pearl coat color is in store for this baby including a killer engine! Sorry but had to add this comment. Thanks. Gene
Paint Stripper Residue Removable
- Thread starter HP Man
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
My $.02
Long winded answer!
I use enamel reducer and/or mineral spirits. I then go over the car w/ lac thinner, to get the last bits of contamination. I then go over the entire car w/ a DA, and 180g paper, wipe down w/ wax/grease remover. Once the residue is gone, and the surface is clean/dry, I spray a LIGHT coat of "A MUST FOR RUST" on the entire car. The product is available @HD.. About $8.00 a spray bottle. 1 bottle will do a car, if used correctly.
USE gloves! This stuff has a weak acid in it!
I use a red scotchbrite to apply the M4R, so it's spread evenly, and there are NO puddles. Once dry, the surface is protected for up to a yr, IF the car is in a dry enviornment.
Once I get ready to begin work, I again wipe down w/ wax/grease remover, and go over the M4R w/ 180 and the DA.[This will make dust. WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR!]
Once this is done, I grind all areas that require body work, with an 36/80 grit on the 6" grinder. This does the prep for bondo.After a blowdown, I hit the entire car w/ epoxy primer. [I use PPG DPXX]. XX = 40,80,90, depends on color. Body work is next.
Once all that's done, all you have left is "finishing up"!!
I buy heavy duty gloves by the box..Cuts down on greasy finger prints, absorbtion thru your skin..
The above process was used on the last project..Ya, it's a HEMI!! Ya, it's EXPENSIVE to fool w/ Mopars!
Long winded answer!
I use enamel reducer and/or mineral spirits. I then go over the car w/ lac thinner, to get the last bits of contamination. I then go over the entire car w/ a DA, and 180g paper, wipe down w/ wax/grease remover. Once the residue is gone, and the surface is clean/dry, I spray a LIGHT coat of "A MUST FOR RUST" on the entire car. The product is available @HD.. About $8.00 a spray bottle. 1 bottle will do a car, if used correctly.
USE gloves! This stuff has a weak acid in it!
I use a red scotchbrite to apply the M4R, so it's spread evenly, and there are NO puddles. Once dry, the surface is protected for up to a yr, IF the car is in a dry enviornment.
Once I get ready to begin work, I again wipe down w/ wax/grease remover, and go over the M4R w/ 180 and the DA.[This will make dust. WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR!]
Once this is done, I grind all areas that require body work, with an 36/80 grit on the 6" grinder. This does the prep for bondo.After a blowdown, I hit the entire car w/ epoxy primer. [I use PPG DPXX]. XX = 40,80,90, depends on color. Body work is next.
Once all that's done, all you have left is "finishing up"!!
I buy heavy duty gloves by the box..Cuts down on greasy finger prints, absorbtion thru your skin..
The above process was used on the last project..Ya, it's a HEMI!!
Ya, it's EXPENSIVE to fool w/ Mopars!Attachments
turbonut85
Rarely used member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2008
General use paint stripper will work great. You CAN rinse it with water...recommended to neutralize the solvents in the stripper....as long as you blow it dry with an air compressor....COMPLETELY. The metal isn't porous enough to "flash rust" very quickly. HTH ---Keith
Chuck, I knew you would have some words of Wisdom! Thanks. Cool looking ride, picture. Another question for you, related subject. Have you ever shrunk a ding or hail damage back with Dry Ice? I just saw a video doing this and it didn't damage the paint! I have some hail damage on this car, very small dents and not many. I'm going to do most all of the paint and body work myself, door jams, inside the front fenders, and use the fiberglass reinforced tape to roll back the quarter window moldings. Just saw this done on "Muscle Cars". I've not painted anything with the new paints before so this is a new process to me. I've invested in all the painting equipment and even painted "Imron" before. (deadly stuff, iso-cynides etc.) I'm not using it this time but this stuff is very durable to chemicals and temps, like fire engines. Thanks again to both comments. Gene