Opinions on using a little race fuel with Alky?

BARRACUDA1968

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2011
I plan to take my car to an 1/8th mile track this weekend for the first time.

I've been doing some tuning with the SD2 and not seeing any real KR. Sometimes I get a .4 or .5 blip at higher rpms. Not sure why but it's intermittent.

I was thinking about dumping in a few gallons of 110 before I go just for good measure.

What effects if any will I notice in the tune?
 
I always added race fuel when I went to the track. On one of my cars I would run straight 110 and alky. The other c16 and alky. Imop alky should not be used as a suplemental to octane. When pushing the car hard add octane. You won't see a issue with your tune.
 
I've been doing some tuning with the SD2 and not seeing any real KR. Sometimes I get a .4 or .5 blip at higher rpms. Not sure why but it's intermittent.
inmo you need to get rid of the knock you are seeing before you go to the track.you shouldn't need any more octane over the meth but there is nothing wrong with adding a few gallons of race fuel for that comfort.the race fuel with alky will slow the car down if not retuned.now for the important stuff, you should have a fuel cushion not just an octane cushion when running at the track.the car is more loaded there then the street so add some fuel/richen it up.
 
What effects if any will I notice in the tune?
5 gallons of c12 and alky on an untouched tune richened my car up .3 to .4 on the wideband all the way down the track and the car slowed down just a few mph,retuning it got it back.the main advantage on mixing the race gas with alky is you can lean down the mixture more.
 
Are you logging fuel pressure? 80# injectors, but what fuel system? Could be #1 going lean even up top if the combined AFR is showing "rich"
 
inmo you need to get rid of the knock you are seeing before you go to the track.you shouldn't need any more octane over the meth but there is nothing wrong with adding a few gallons of race fuel for that comfort.the race fuel with alky will slow the car down if not retuned.now for the important stuff, you should have a fuel cushion not just an octane cushion when running at the track.the car is more loaded there then the street so add some fuel/richen it up.

My KR happens in a weird place when it does. Right before I get .09 KR my AFR dips to 10.3 and then leans out a hair and it goes away. I don't see a real reason for it?

If I hit the tires hard and run it from a dead stop through 1st and 2nd I get a bunch of KR. I put a 3 second ignore on that for the track.

 
Are you logging fuel pressure? 80# injectors, but what fuel system? Could be #1 going lean even up top if the combined AFR is showing "rich"

I am not logging fuel pressure but I need to call Julio today anyway so I'm going to order his sensor or whatever he sells. Before I go this weekend I'll be taping a pressure gauge to the windshield to verify where I'm at.

I did flow all the injectors before I installed them. All 6 were on the money but that don't mean squat at this point.
 
If I hit the tires hard and run it from a dead stop through 1st and 2nd I get a bunch of KR.
if the tires are spinning and or other things are moving around that can trigger kr.however if the car is hooking,try pulling some timing out see if it goes away.
 
I always add 5 gallons of race gas to about half a tank 94 at the track plus a couple pounds of boost to my street tune.
Hard on wide band sensors but it works good for me.
 
I know some guys are still spraying a little Alky (like setting #1 on the knob) with E85 and race fuel just for Liquid Cooling effects. No tuning for the increase, just the cooling effect it has. And a little insurance against KR in the process.
 
The only fuel I can get locally is 91 straight or 93 with 10% ethanol. I've often wondered what was better for the car? No 94 or clean 93 around here. I wish we had E85 but we don't.

I ordered the parts from Julio to log fuel pressure. Tonight I'll put the gauge on the windshield and see how I'm doing. I'm also going to install my spare alky pump which is new. I'll make a couple logs and see what happens.

I need to get to my VE tables but I want to make sure everything else is up to par first.
 
Same as when I was at your house, peaks at about 20. That's if I make it. I keep jacking around with this new alky pump and it still doesn't pump. This is the 3rd time I've installed it. I did the test Julio said to do today and it's supposed to work so I installed it tonight. Nothing but a high pitched whine out of it when I hit the test button. The light goes red on the LED and nothing but a whine.

So now I'm done for the night, too late to do anything else. I need to get some things sorted out and I'm running out of time. Needless to say I'm not real happy right now. I just get tired of spending all this money and shit don't work.

I got oil dripping out the cometic head gaskets, I've pulled this motor twice do to other's mistakes and paid for it. Now it's going on the stand again this winter. Number 3!!! I just want to get this POS down the track one time with the new motor. This may be the second year I don't make it.
 
If you have an air compressor you can turn down to 10-15 psi you should be able to test the pump flow by pressurizing the MAP sensor and detaching the Alky line and putting it back in the top of the tank. Key on engine off. Have someone turn the Alky control from 1 to 8. The flow should increase with the control. Make sure the line is secure there will be good pressure if all is working.

A wine at the pump is normal with the test button, it is low pressure on the test button.
 
If you have been running 20 lbs on 91 and Alky with only 0.9 or your Alky is working. If the KR is always at 5400 I would expect it is your peak power and that is why you see the AFR dip. Either a little more Alky or less timing. More octane is always a good insurance at the track!
 
I keep jacking around with this new alky pump and it still doesn't pump.
how do you know that?is the light going from red to green when you drive the car?when you get the tester and install the fp gauge to look into the fuel system you will know whats happening.it may be a case of a weak pump or it may be a case of just adjusting the timing a little,but you will know. It can be frustrating but when the car comes together you may really enjoy it.
 
If you have an air compressor you can turn down to 10-15 psi you should be able to test the pump flow by pressurizing the MAP sensor and detaching the Alky line and putting it back in the top of the tank. Key on engine off. Have someone turn the Alky control from 1 to 8. The flow should increase with the control. Make sure the line is secure there will be good pressure if all is working.

A wine at the pump is normal with the test button, it is low pressure on the test button.

Julio told me to get a paper clip and jump the map sensor from green to gray wire if this didn't work. I guess it simulates 30 psi. I went to try that and I don't have a gray wire so I didn't mess with it. It was too late to call him. Honestly I don't want a $150 pump that I need to do this with protecting my $12,000 engine. I'll call him tomorrow. I just walked away for now. I wanted to do more testing but I didn't have anyone in the shop to help. I wanted to be under the car and someone in the drivers seat to hit the button. But then I kept thinking do I want to perform CPR on an Alky pump?

Mr.Spool, My old pump which I found a date on tonight is 9 years old. If I install it and hit the test button while the car is idling it will almost kill the motor and the light goes green. It's the only reference I have as to how this new pump acts. The new pump does nothing other than whine, almost like an electrical surge on an electrical motor with a bad armature if that makes any sense. Or the pumps sucking air for some reason and won't grab the alky? Who knows?

If you have been running 20 lbs on 91 and Alky with only 0.9 or your Alky is working. If the KR is always at 5400 I would expect it is your peak power and that is why you see the AFR dip. Either a little more Alky or less timing. More octane is always a good insurance at the track!

I'm pretty confident in my old pump working at this point. It's probably what I'll be running this weekend. Why or how it's lasted 9 years is beyond me. I've had the car 3 years now and it was on the car when I got it. The only reason I bought a new pump is after reading posts that you need to change them out every 2 years. After talking with Julio today it's not the motors that go bad usually it the housing due to the nature of the alky. The motor is rated at 1500 hours. Since mine doesn't leak and I don't think my minor KR is related I might as well run it. If 2 years is a good replacement interval than after 9 years I'm on borrowed time I guess.
 
Well lemme know how it goes. It was running pretty good with the old pump. That's what I would use for now. Just 1/8th mile... Heck we covered that on my road.
 
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