OK, I'm about ready top burn this heap

ttypeturbo

New Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2004
OK, I admit defeat at this point. I bought this car that has been sitting for a long time and it will not start. It didn't have fuel pressure to the rails so I jumped the pump and it is producing pressure. I have spark also but it seems that the car isn't pulsing the injectors. With a test light on the injector plug, I have voltage at all times, even when cranking, shouldn't it be flashing? ECM has voltage and a normal code 12, engine has fresh plugs and fresh 93 octaine gas. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
 
Possibly bad ECM...???

Do you have any other TR cars around that has parts to swap off with you? That is the route I would go. The no fuel pump coming on in the beginning sounds strange also. How about the fuse?

The FP relay is inline, but should be overridden when oil pressure is sensed by the motor. I believe the injector test adapter should flash as it is cranking. Could also be a crank sensor causing no injector fire, a cam sensor would only cause not to know when to sync timimg, correct all? But with a bad crank sensor, you should still see fuel pressure turn on atkey on, at least I think. I think I have seen on my car the fuel pump did not fire up with key on, and I had like 45 PSI in my line, I do not know if it can be detected if the pump needs to be turned on or not.

Maybe I can learn something here...

Mike
 
OK, I admit defeat at this point. I bought this car that has been sitting for a long time and it will not start. It didn't have fuel pressure to the rails so I jumped the pump and it is producing pressure. I have spark also but it seems that the car isn't pulsing the injectors. With a test light on the injector plug, I have voltage at all times, even when cranking, shouldn't it be flashing? ECM has voltage and a normal code 12, engine has fresh plugs and fresh 93 octaine gas. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

the injector harnes supplies a constant 12v to each injector, and pulses the ground side.

A faulty cam sensor will NOT allow the engine to fire.
 
OK, I admit defeat at this point. I bought this car that has been sitting for a long time and it will not start. It didn't have fuel pressure to the rails so I jumped the pump and it is producing pressure. I have spark also but it seems that the car isn't pulsing the injectors. With a test light on the injector plug, I have voltage at all times, even when cranking, shouldn't it be flashing? ECM has voltage and a normal code 12, engine has fresh plugs and fresh 93 octaine gas. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

Where in SC are you? We're located in Charlotte, NC. Maybe we can help.

K.
 
Where in SC are you? We're located in Charlotte, NC. Maybe we can help.

K.


The same here if you are in the SE area. I am just an hour south of the border on I95. I know there are a few others that come onto this board that is not far from the SC border, that may be able to help out as well.

Mike
 
Cars that sit for a long time will have injector issues, especially if air got into the fuel rail. I'd suspect the injectors, so you might consider pulling them and getting them flowed for starters.
That's one less frustration if you know they're OK.
 
Update! Update!!

I got the car started today! I know that the fuel relay is bad and I cranked and cranked and it finally busted off. The car had been sitting longer than I realized as the last registration in the glove box was 1996!! Believe it or not, the engine sounds pretty good but fuel pressure is only 30 lbs. so it sounds a little dead, but no ticks knocks or smoke!! I blew a bunch of rat bedding out of the exhaust, haha!! Now I need to steam clean the engine, change oil again, figure out WTF the brakes and brake pedal are locked up and lots of other stuff. Guys, thank you so much from the bottom of my heart for the offers of help, you are a great patient group and I appreciate it. More updates coming.
 
Update! Update!!

I got the car started today! I know that the fuel relay is bad and I cranked and cranked and it finally busted off. The car had been sitting longer than I realized as the last registration in the glove box was 1996!! Believe it or not, the engine sounds pretty good but fuel pressure is only 30 lbs. so it sounds a little dead, but no ticks knocks or smoke!! I blew a bunch of rat bedding out of the exhaust, haha!! Now I need to steam clean the engine, change oil again, figure out WTF the brakes and brake pedal are locked up and lots of other stuff. Guys, thank you so much from the bottom of my heart for the offers of help, you are a great patient group and I appreciate it. More updates coming.


Congrats to you...

I would reccommend a Walbro 340 pump replacement, a hotwire kit and some very good injector cleaner to start off with. Actually try to get that old gas out of there and get some good 93 ASAP. You can also go to a boat store and get some sea foam and put in your gas. It will eat at any algea and bacteria that may have built up in your fuel system. It will not hurt, for sure.

Looks like you got a great buy for the price, with what appears to be a fuel pump relay problem. Although you may want to ask exactly when the car stopped running. It should have continued to keep running and basically not want to restart. Nothing like driving down the road and stopping while in route.

As for the brakes, look around the board here and you will find that the stock "powermaster" system has problems and is often replaced with a vacuum system. There is also a hydroboost system that used your power steering pump to aid in your brake system. So there are a couple of options to go to. Most likely your motor has locked up from so many years of sitting.

Good luck, and do not hesitate in asking questions. This is an awesome place for resource for our cars...

Mike
 
Actually I did remove the tank and get everything out the best that I could. I installed a Walbro pump while I had it out because the original pump was dead. I have a hot wire kit that I'm installing this weekend. The existing wiring seems to have a problem as the previous owner has a 30a fuse in it and it is getting warm while the pump is running. I believe the pump death is why the car originally stopped running. I'm using the search engine to diagnose the brakes and getting a lot of info. Thanks!!
 
It is typically set at 43-45 psi with the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator off and plugged. Then when you reinstall the vac line the pressure will drop to that set pressure minus the vacuum your engine makes at idle. So if it is pulling 15" (or 7.5 psi) your fuel pressure will drop to 45-7.5 = 37.5 psi.

John
 
Vac line off, 42 psi.

Warm wiring is bad- get that 30a fuse out of there, and get that hotwire kit in ASAP.

Congrats on getting the beast running! Since you "found" some rat bedding, you'll want to check out the rest of the car/wiring for any more rodent damage.
 
Thanks for the info. It seems the pressure is off as it is around 30psi at idle w/stock regulator hooked up. I'm hoping that the hot wire will cure this.
 
If you haven't done so, change the fuel filter also; is the regulator the stock 233 Bosch or aftermarket?
 
New fuel filter and the stock Bosch regulator, I'm also going to pull the filter again to make sure that nothing else was picked up in it. It's really hard to clean these tanks with the baffle in the way.
 
New fuel filter and the stock Bosch regulator, I'm also going to pull the filter again to make sure that nothing else was picked up in it. It's really hard to clean these tanks with the baffle in the way.


Stock regulator will give you a pressure of 30 pnds so your right about there, i would recommend new fuel filter like they stated above, set your TPS to .40 t0 .46 at idle watch your AIC, fix any hoses that are cracked or that expect of leaking, also get an adjustable FP regulator and keep your stock for back up, check the resistance of the coil pack, new plugs and new wires. :)
 
Top