ok guys...help me TUNE this smc alky kit!

Re: Re: Re: Chip/timing?

Originally posted by gn85
How is your part throttle driveability now?? Do you have any bog or anything like that?? Can you feel the stage coming on if you slowly apply the boost (bogging)? I'm just trying to learn as much as I can about alky. Thanks.
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this extender chip is truly awesome and worth the money...my car has never idled better, i have never had the throttle response i have now...turbo spools instantly, WOT power is outrageous, gas mileage is great...it's definitely worth it
 
i ran 100 unleaded octane in my car the past few days along with the alky...i actually got it up to 27 lbs of boost with no knock at all...not sure if that was safe to do that but i only did that on one run on the highway to see where my boost was at...

once i returned to 93 octane i put the boost back down to 22-23 lbs at WOT and i am still getting knock...here's what's happening...say i am cruising on the highway at 55 and then semi gradually mash the pedal to allow the boost to come on...alky starts spraying at 5-6 lbs and then i get no knock at 22 lbs...

but when i go WOT right away (mashing the pedal) from a cruise, turbo spools up so dang fast and the knock comes...even at the low start on point...guess i can't totally mash the pedal on the highway like that...is there a way around this? anyone else have a problem like this? now i tried pushing the test button right before i mash the pedal and didn't get knock at all...but i shouldn't have to preload the alky like that all the time correct?
 
Re: Re: Chip/timing?

Originally posted by d0n_3d
i am using the extender chip with 23 degrees of timing in first gear and 21 degrees in the rest of the gears...so the timing is quite mild...like i said i just turned the turn on point really low like 5-6 lbs and now when i hit around 15 lbs of boost (where i would normally start to knock) the alky is spraying at full speed by then...before i had the turn on point at 13 lbs! then i tried 10...still too high
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Somone can correct me if I am wrong but 23 and 21 timing is not mild! 16-18 degrees is mild.Also I think chuck is on to something if full spray comes on 2 plus seconds after the pump then on a quck spooling turbo you would have to set it up to come on at a lower boost pressure to make up for the 2 second lag time.So you are effectivley fooling it so t will be spraying enough by the time you get to higher pressures.

Also check the fuel you are using.My car ran like crap with lots of knock retard at low boost levels 15 psi with 93 octane gas and I found out that the station was selling junk gas.Switched to a different station and now have zero knock at 17 lbs with the extender,tplus and ls1 maf.

Something else you may want to check is the fuel pressure and make sure it is upping itself at a rate of 1 to 1 with boost.If it is not it will give the same problems.
 
Have you tried hitting the test button before going full throttle? Not holding it in but just pressing it. This will prime everything. This is what I do when I'm out on the road. No transitional knock and no knock running 22-23psi.
 
i did hit the test button right before going WOT and then still holding it when mashing the gas but then i let go of the button...didn't get knock...i will just press it right before i go wot and see what happens...can't hurt
 
Everybody gets transitional knock. It's NORMAL to get knock if you go to WOT at speed unless you hit the prime button, and hold it, to start the alky flowing before you mash it. If you get hi knock from a dead stop to wide open throttle, then you have a problem.
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
Everybody gets transitional knock. It's NORMAL to get knock if you go to WOT at speed unless you hit the prime button, and hold it, to start the alky flowing before you mash it. If you get hi knock from a dead stop to wide open throttle, then you have a problem.
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It may be normal to some people. Thats still not normal though! It can and should be fixed. IMHO...

:)

Bob
 
Originally posted by BM Computer Src
It may be normal to some people. Thats still not normal though! It can and should be fixed. IMHO...

:)

Bob
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That's pretty good. You come in here and make a statement that I believe is wrong. Then, you say it can and should be fixed. Well, enlighten us.
 
Something's not quite rught. Pump speed maxed out on a dual nozzle system should drown the motor in alcohol before it could even think about knocking. By what I've read, I have a similar set up to you, same chip and injectors and I'm running a PT52. On 23-24psi and 27° I ran 11.79 with 93 octane and pump speed on 4. On the street I run the same boost and 23°/21° thats in the chip and 43psi fuel pressure ( line off ) that stays the same, street or strip. Spray on is 15psi for both street and strip.

I would look at the alky pump to make sure it's staying on and not coming and going. My pump did that and it wound up being the power bulk head in the tank was going bad and was sending power to the pump only some of the time ( and the spray on light was on ). Take the power RCA plug loose and jump it from the battery to see if it's getting and keeping power. If that pans out, I would look elsewhere for the knock problem. Are you running a 3" Dp? Might be hitting the frame under boost. What about motor mount or torque strap? Might be loose letting the motor torque too far. All of the above happened to me, maybe it'll help you. Good luck!!
 
Hi Donnie.........It seems he's talking about knock when he hit's passing gear or when he's in 3rd going 60mph and quickly going to WOT. Took me 25 responses to figure that out. That's why I stated above that this type of knock is normal because, at speed, it takes a certain amount of time for the alky to hit the combustion chamber.
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
That's pretty good. You come in here and make a statement that I believe is wrong. Then, you say it can and should be fixed. Well, enlighten us.
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The fix is to have it come on earlier. However, to accomplish this it would be tooooo early for most- in my case that meant a turn on point of about 3-4 psi. This is too low for street driving because you hit the engine with full alky at only 3-4 lbs boost and drowns out - but this is the fix for the "smack the throttle while rolling and transitional knock" problem. For those SMC and DIY guys, both are out of luck on this problem. (for now) You cant fix this with hobbs switches and gobbly goop.

The real fix is to have a progressive kit. This would bring the alky on at 3-4 psi but not full blast, just gently and ramps up to max speed when you need it, by 13-16 psi. Julio has the right idea, and will have this solution out soon. His is the right way.

:D

Bob
 
PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLERS

Sounds like these should be standard equipment for the alky systems...when will they be available, & at what $$?

TIA!! :)
 
Originally posted by BM Computer Src
For those SMC and DIY guys, both are out of luck on this problem. (for now) You cant fix this with hobbs switches and gobbly goop.

The real fix is to have a progressive kit. This would bring the alky on at 3-4 psi but not full blast, just gently and ramps up to max speed when you need it, by 13-16 psi.
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There is no such kit for this problem at this point in time.
 
Yes steve, your right- no problem for WOT only blasts. However, try driving around town and at low throttle acceleration hit 3 psi and have the alky come on full blast. Its ugly. :(

Thats why we need the progressive rate, so at only 3 psi the pump is powered up but not at "full kill".

I agree that Most people do not have to even worry about this problem. However, myself as well as others who spool really fast (I have 3.73's, stock turbo and 2800 stall converter) are the ones who have this problem.

Bob
 
guys to clarify what is going on here...

the other night i set the boost at 23-24 lbs at WOT (this is a te-44 turbo for those of you who don't know), i set the turn on point to 4-5 lbs of boost...i set the pump speed at 7...set fuel pressure to 46-47 psi line off...filled with 100% denatured alky and proceeded to do some test runs

i was cruising at 55-60 mph and then i punched it...boost shot up to 24 lbs and alky spraying like normal...i didn't get any bogging or hesitation at all...got a couple green lights on the knock gauge to light up but that was all...car pulled like mad

i did the same thing from a stop...got a little bit more knock at first but i believe that was false knock from the tires spinning all over the place...got up to 24 lbs of boost again and the knock gauge didn't light up during the run after the initial tire spin fiasco

now while cruising at 55-60 again...i decided to press the test button for a second right before i went WOT...guess what...no lights on the gauge lit up at all...

so basically what i am going to do just for insurance everytime is press that test button RIGHT before i decide to mass the pedal...it seems like it works and it lowers the combustion chamber temps down a little bit before i really start spraying the alky...i just really hope my knock gauge is telling the truth! otherwise kaboom:D
 
boy i tell you what though...either when i get people in the car with me and the air temps are hot...i swear i can redline that knock gauge with the same exact setup...i was doing all this testing late at night when it was around 70 degrees out...i've done one test with another person in the car and it was semi hot out and i got a tad bit of knock but then it went away when i kept my foot in it...false knock? my downpipe must be hitting the frame still...i have it wrapped in header wrap but who knows...at least it doesn't bang around at idle like it used to...that was annoying
 
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