Official Noah's Mad Max Gn complete engine build...

well you cant get rid of me that easy...and its only going to get uglier and uglier...haha...kk not sure where i left off on this build i only get limited times to work on it...well here goes...ok i think its intake manifold time...

...so i bought a set of felpro 1200's nice looking gaskets...i also bought i think its auto performance machine's valley tray...apparently its better at keeping oil off the intake and keeping it cooler ...we will see...nice piece i guess for a sheet of metal...

...anyway i used some aircraft goop in the picture and put it on the backside of the felpros and lined them up on the heads ...i put a bead of " the right stuff rtv" under the tray and on top of the tray plus a good shot of it in each corner as there is some space to cover there since i am not using the end rails that usually come with the stock valley pan style gasket...then down goes the intake...kind of an exercise in helicopter landing but ;you will figure it out...put the bolts down and snug them all ...i let it sit for a couple hours not sure why but it sounds good...next torqued them down in stages and in sequence...good fit...

...next plenum went on with an rjc plate you can see in the pic and most of the sensors, thermostat and housing etc was already assembled on the intake...

...step back for a sec i think i forgot to mention the roller rocker setting...i have the 8.220 comp cam pushrods ...i backed all the adjusting screws out and turned engine to tdc on number one cylinder and proceeded to adjust the six pushrods that i could then turned it over again until top dead center at #4 cylinder and did the remaining pushrods...i slowly tightened the adjuster until i just felt the pushrod touch the lifter cup without pressing it down that being zero lash and then i gave it another 3/4 turn preload...one full turn on the t and d's is .0500 3/4 would be .0375 which is good for me... i also checked the rocker arm geometry using prussian blue on the top of the valve and then turned engine over and looked at the witness mark to see where the rocker arm contacted the valve...too far out or too far in would be no good right in the center is where its at...

...next valve covers...i had some rjc spacers so my stockers would fit the t&d rockers i have...i bought the black rubber felpros with the tabs and they seem to fit fine right against the valve cover but i still needed something btw. the head and the spacer ...so i used a cork gasket that i had dry and torqued it all down...im sure i will have to make some adjustments while running so we will see how that set up holds up...

...next put on the h&r motor mounts ...next the stock headers i have...ya it would be nice to have some nice new shiny ta ones to make it look nice ...that is going to have to wait ...and i hear the stockers are good to the tens anyway so again will see how that goes...now for a whole lot of pics...
 

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i was alittle worried about the green paint on the engine until i saw the black on the v/c and dog house. i likey now:cool: . thanks for posting all the pics.I love to learn.inside an engine (im not going to even try to rebuild a tranny)is the only thing left for me to try,this helps me alot.keep us updated. good luck.
 
Noah, Hard to tell form the pics but is the intake powdercoated? If so are you concerned about having a "ground" issue with the coilpack and the other sensors?
 
Your build looks good , but something is troubling me . I have a set of K1 rods new in the box and have compared them to a set of stock rods in realation to the offset . and from what I figured out is that the K1 manufactoring stamp found on the beam of thier rods . is in the same relationship of the bosses/dots found on a stock rod in comparison to the offset . so......looking at you pics (#11) of the rods sitting in the holder it's showing that you have the #2-#4 K1 rod (stamp) pointing to the rear of the engine in realation to piston orientation for that cyl .and in pic (#30) it shows the same of the PS bank. I've always installed stock rods with the bosses/dots on the DS (#1,#3,#5) rods facing to the REAR of the engine and on the PS (#2,#4,#6) rods facing to the FRONT of the engine as shown in the GM manual . maybe a engine builder will chime in and straighten me up on the K1 rod offset position. or is it just the picture ? :) .thanks .
 
...ok to answer some questions...the intake was just bead blasted and then the outside was spray painted with silver paint...

...second that tray came from... oilsystems
...i bought 3 of them thinking they would come in useful in other builds or for local gn club members...

...now as far as the offset k1 rod question...yes i think you are right...i know this...one of the rods was set in the piston backwards and in the cylinder when i put it together but just one...it was quickly noticed and changed around...as far as the offset goes i believe all of the offsets go towards the front of the engine ...when the rods are put on the pistons correctly the pistons are labelled direction and that pretty much straightens that out...i also looked at other build pictures to be sure and they all went the same way so a couple of the beginning pics might have been before i caught it but i believe it to be all proper now...thanks for checking it out...noah.
 
...ok to answer some questions...the intake was just bead blasted and then the outside was spray painted with silver paint...

...second that tray came from... oilsystems
...i bought 3 of them thinking they would come in useful in other builds or for local gn club members...

...now as far as the offset k1 rod question...yes i think you are right...i know this...one of the rods was set in the piston backwards and in the cylinder when i put it together but just one...it was quickly noticed and changed around...as far as the offset goes i believe all of the offsets go towards the front of the engine ...when the rods are put on the pistons correctly the pistons are labelled direction and that pretty much straightens that out...i also looked at other build pictures to be sure and they all went the same way so a couple of the beginning pics might have been before i caught it but i believe it to be all proper now...thanks for checking it out...noah.



correct..... on the DS offset goes towards front of engine (K1 Stamp/stock 2 dots to rear), PS offset towards rear of engine (K1 stamp/stock 2 dots to front) . I guess your explanation explains it . would hate to see you put the rods in backwards on that nice build . :) I'm surprised no one else picked up on the pics . :)
 
..well again been awhile not sure where i left off hehe...well here are some pics of the harmonic balancer install...was kind of a pain...the bhj balancer is press fit and a tight one at that...i think it was .012" press fit clearance...so damn tight...i used an installer but it did slightly turn the balancer as i was pressing it on and the key sat so low in the beginning that i took a bit of the corner off...there are some pics of it...so a bit of emery cloth and light die grinding sanding to take a bit of the edge off and it was fine but still really damn tight...in the end the right touch and hammer is better...
 

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...also lined up the timing marker, ordered new crank sensor as there was a bit of play with the old one, set new one up , also added some oil lines for the new turbo as it will have its own oiling system/filter, i put some of the rjc pulleys that i had, installed the turbo and the water coolant lines from the turob...i also put in a new walbro 340 pump in the tank and added a racetronix hotwire kit to the front, real close to dropping it back in the beast...l
 
...pics of the blabbing...
 

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...more...its shiny...
 

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I had to order a modified crank key from Webber for my CAT crank and BHJ. The stock key was really loose and just kind of flopping around in there.
 
wow looking great. also good eye on the T-stat thats what it looks like to me as well but it might just be the pictures. keep us posted with more pics.
 
...ya it isnt the stock key...the one in there was fabricated by the machine shop i had the work done at...still sat kind of low at the front but evened up in the end...as far as the t-stat goes i guess ill check it again but im pretty sure it went in right...if its in wrong thanks a lot...if its in right screw you...lol just joking...just waiting on a belt tensioner assembly from napa online then throwing on a few accessories and dropping it in...have to install the fmic and figure out my catalytic converter to downpipe situation as well ...since we have air care/emissions testing here...more to come...noah.
 
looks like the t-stat is in wrong to me looking at this picture.

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