No start, have fuel and spark

When mine were stuck, three of them were stuck closed. I used a 9 volt battery and a couple of wires to check them. You should hear a click when you touch the terminals. I gently tapped on the stuck ones and they started working. If that's the problem, I would run a quart of transmission fluid through with a full tank of gas. It will help lubricate them and clean then as well.
 
Sinister CO said:
When mine were stuck, three of them were stuck closed. I used a 9 volt battery and a couple of wires to check them. You should hear a click when you touch the terminals. I gently tapped on the stuck ones and they started working. If that's the problem, I would run a quart of transmission fluid through with a full tank of gas. It will help lubricate them and clean then as well.
Click to expand...
You do that went they were still in the car? Just unplug them and jump them?
 
Yep. Mine would act like it wanted to start but never would. After getting those injectors working, it fired right up.
 
Sinister CO said:
Yep. Mine would act like it wanted to start but never would. After getting those injectors working, it fired right up.
Click to expand...
Thanks man. I'll hopefully have a chance to try this tonight. Probably doesn't make any difference on which is your positive and negative on the injector does it?
 
VtheGNMan said:
Curious if when one was stuck, were you able to tell it was when you applied power to it? Or just knew that it did open then and then worked normally?
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If they're are working properly you'll hear them click when you put the juice to them. I let it run for a bit when it started to give them a chance to work a bit. I did check them a couple more times after that to make sure they were still working.
 
TurboBob said:
since you have the powerlogger, how about a logfile? injectors and chip matched? Check Engine light do the on-off-on sequence when you key on?

Presuming then engine is mechanically ok, then you either have way too much fuel, or not enough. unplug the injector harness and see if it will start on the residual fuel. Or perhaps unplug the MAF in case the MAF is reading way too high, thus overfueling the engine.

Bob
Click to expand...
Did you happen to see anything stand out in the log that was abnormal?
 
its your cam sensor . a stuck injector isn't going to cause a no start situation. Take it out and install it correctly .
 
Sinister CO said:
If they're are working properly you'll hear them click when you put the juice to them. I let it run for a bit when it started to give them a chance to work a bit. I did check them a couple more times after that to make sure they were still working.
Click to expand...
Had a chance to try the 9V battery to each injector. Only 2 injectors clicked as normal. The other 4 gave the resistance to the battery (and had a mini arc). I'm guessing that this shows they are stuck.
Do you think I should put more power to them? Like right off a 12v battery and see if the extra power opens them? I watched on YouTube how they can clean the injectors using a fuel line and jumpers to a 12v battery. Thoughts?

I appreciate all the input on this thread. I have no problem removing the cam sensor and setting it again. I am just holding out as the motor was running, nothing changed and it would introduce a new variable. Did I set it right this time? Was it right originally? That sort of thing.
 
I went ahead and tried off the battery directly. Injector is still not clicking. Time to pull the fuel rail and get the injectors out.
 
Sorry, I couldn't log into the forum for a while there. For the injectors that were stuck, I took a half inch extension and tapped on the side of them a bit. That was all it took for mine to start working. I did not use 12 volts on them as I'd read that it could damage them.
 
I did the tap on the side and it didn't make a difference. Reading up on how to clean them now.
 
If you watch the fuel pressure as you are applying 12 volts to the injectors you will see which ones are opening by the fuel pressure drop.
Also after several partial starts you can feel each header pipe for heat and the cold ones are the ones with issues.

Best way to clean is to spend the 100$ and get them flowed and cleaned....even if you get them to work yourself
you can have 1 or more injectors that do not flow correctly and will give you all kinds of tuning issues.

The cleaning and even new injectors are inexpensive....don't cheap out on this. FBR
 
I'm paranoid and would likely have new injectors flow tested prior to install to be certain with regards to injector performance and match prior to install
Joel
 
fastblackracing said:
If you watch the fuel pressure as you are applying 12 volts to the injectors you will see which ones are opening by the fuel pressure drop.
Also after several partial starts you can feel each header pipe for heat and the cold ones are the ones with issues.

Best way to clean is to spend the 100$ and get them flowed and cleaned....even if you get them to work yourself
you can have 1 or more injectors that do not flow correctly and will give you all kinds of tuning issues.

The cleaning and even new injectors are inexpensive....don't cheap out on this. FBR
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advise. I individually tested each injector so know the ones that are stuck. BUT as long I have them out, I'll have all of them done. I have a car show in a week and a 1/2 and still haven't been able to start the car. Kinda freaking out here. Especially if I have to send them off and wait to get them back. Thinking just picking up another set and then I'll have a back up.
 
Chuck turns the injectors around quick, would be good to get some backups just in case though if he finds a non-repairable one.
 
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