Newbie Advice For Chasing Electrical Problems...

86turboSix

Mr. BuzzCut
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
As the title states, I'm new-ish to the Buick tech arena and have very general questions about chasing electrical problems/sorting out and locating shorts or corroded wires. I have looked at the wiring diagrams on turbobuicks as well as vortex, but I have very broad questions as to how to go about finding where I'm losing power.

Primarily, it has been having trouble starting as well as holding battery charge. Scanmaster reads 12.1 volts max, rarely sees 13, and is inconsistent/numbers fluctuate often. I am aware that there is -1 volt shown on the scanmaster. Hovers at 11 while driving.

Chip is a Poston burned for 30# injectors. Injectors are Bausch 30#. Receipt from original sale listed "comp cam" as an upgrade, however the shop nor the prev. owner knew what it was degreed to. Never got a response from Turbo Tweak as to whether I can just list my cam as "stock" and see what happens. Not knowing the cam degree has been :mad: :mad::mad: for adjusting my IAC... car shuts down often.

One last thing, if anyone knows the correct size of the two bolts that mate the stage II inlet bell to the TA-49, it would be extremely helpful.

Thanks in advance, sorry for the wall of text
 
I'd start with verifying good battery and alternator, as low voltage will cause all sorts of weird issues. After that I would chase down ALL your grounds. When I ordered my chip Eric said that the cam wasn't super critical, as I don't know what cam I have. Hth
 
86turboSix said:
As the title states, I'm new-ish to the Buick tech arena and have very general questions about chasing electrical problems/sorting out and locating shorts or corroded wires. I have looked at the wiring diagrams on turbobuicks as well as vortex, but I have very broad questions as to how to go about finding where I'm losing power.

Primarily, it has been having trouble starting as well as holding battery charge. Scanmaster reads 12.1 volts max, rarely sees 13, and is inconsistent/numbers fluctuate often. I am aware that there is -1 volt shown on the scanmaster. Hovers at 11 while driving.

Chip is a Poston burned for 30# injectors. Injectors are Bausch 30#. Receipt from original sale listed "comp cam" as an upgrade, however the shop nor the prev. owner knew what it was degreed to. Never got a response from Turbo Tweak as to whether I can just list my cam as "stock" and see what happens. Not knowing the cam degree has been :mad: :mad::mad: for adjusting my IAC... car shuts down often.

One last thing, if anyone knows the correct size of the two bolts that mate the stage II inlet bell to the TA-49, it would be extremely helpful.

Thanks in advance, sorry for the wall of text

Hey, PM me your number and I think I can help you. I am originally from Indiana (Portland, Muncie, Fort Wayne) and do know some folks there that can help ya. My father is in Portland and been racing GNs since the beginning..
 
You have ground path issues/poor connections. Read up on checking voltage drop and you will have a happier ride.
 
You have ground path issues/poor connections. Read up on checking voltage drop and you will have a happier ride.

That's where I'd start......
A can of contactor spray, [plastic safe], a good VOM, some jumper leads, and get to work.
And, fix the vac leaks while U R at it.
 
I'd start with checking the voltage at the IGN terminals in the fuse block. Varify that you are getting the proper readings there. A common issue is the ignition switch with these cars. If you wiggle it and see the volts fluctuate on the scantool, you've found one of the problems. Good luck
 
As the title states, I'm new-ish to the Buick tech arena and have very general questions about chasing electrical problems/sorting out and locating shorts or corroded wires. I have looked at the wiring diagrams on turbobuicks as well as vortex, but I have very broad questions as to how to go about finding where I'm losing power.

Primarily, it has been having trouble starting as well as holding battery charge. Scanmaster reads 12.1 volts max, rarely sees 13, and is inconsistent/numbers fluctuate often. I am aware that there is -1 volt shown on the scanmaster. Hovers at 11 while driving.

Chip is a Poston burned for 30# injectors. Injectors are Bausch 30#. Receipt from original sale listed "comp cam" as an upgrade, however the shop nor the prev. owner knew what it was degreed to. Never got a response from Turbo Tweak as to whether I can just list my cam as "stock" and see what happens. Not knowing the cam degree has been :mad: :mad::mad: for adjusting my IAC... car shuts down often.

One last thing, if anyone knows the correct size of the two bolts that mate the stage II inlet bell to the TA-49, it would be extremely helpful.

Thanks in advance, sorry for the wall of text
I would also disconnect the fan delay relay (the big one on the drivers fender). If it is original it is probably corroded. You do not need it. It is a very common parasitic draw.
 
Had the same problem as you, new batteries would only last a week or two. I ended up replacing the alternator to resolve my low voltage problems. Now I consistently show 13.1 to 13.7 Volts on the ScanMaster.
 
Had the same problem as you, new batteries would only last a week or two. I ended up replacing the alternator to resolve my low voltage problems. Now I consistently show 13.1 to 13.7 Volts on the ScanMaster.
alternator was new in 08, only 13k miles on it...
 
I hear you bro' on the alternator with only 13k miles. I hope you get it fixed because that is one thing that will drop you dead in the water while out having fun-trust me. Also keep in mind if you have checked everything else and still have issues you might want to revisit that alternator 'cause 4 years is a long time for anything to go wrong-sitting idle in the garage or driving.
 
Anyone have the contact info for turbo tweak? I want to explain that I am not sure about my cam but I know most of the other variables as far as tuning the chip...
 
Check the alternator anyway. I went through 2 or 3 "new" ones that were crap. Finally got a good one and all issues disappeared.
 
Battery cables are notoriously a problem. Remove them and clean the contact surfaces. Ohm the cables end to end, even flex them while checking to see if there is a break.
 
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