new injectors, chip. audible knock under boost?

C.P.

GBody fan
Joined
Apr 23, 2007
i just installed 42# injectors and a chip from turbo tweak in the monte. the boost hits 18-20 psi, runs great but i am scared of the pinging!

fuel pressure is low at idle but rises to 55-60 psi under boost. (its the stock TR fuel system. i recently replaced the fuel pump and regulator with stock type replacements) i don't have an adjustable reg.

is this a timing issue? i saw that the new chip allows timing adjustments but i don't really know the terminology or where to begin when changing timing.
 
Stock-type fuel system components may not be enough to handle 20psi of boost. If you replaced the fuel pump but did not install a hot wire kit, the fuel pump may still not be getting enough voltage to put out enough fuel for the demand. The factory wiring to the fuel pump is a big weak spot.

Pulling timing will help prevent detonation but will also cause a loss of power, it's really more of a "bandaid" fix until you figure out why you can't run 20psi. After all, when detonation is detected by the knock sensor, the ECM does exactly that, it pulls timing. The turbo tweak chip should have come with an instruction sheet on how to adjust timing but I am not sure if you will run into any complications since it's a TR powertrain transplanted into another car.

If you don't have a Scanmaster you should get one so you can detect detonation before it's loud enough for you to hear! Plus the scanmaster will let you monitor your O2 millivolts and will give us a better clue whether or not your fuel system is keeping up at WOT.
 
thanks for the info. what should the fuel psi. be under boost?

as far as the "transplant" concerns, i put the entire system in the monte. engine, trans, rear end, springs, sway bars, the whole dash, all wiring. the whole 9 yards. its a turbo regal in monte skin!

my GN has a casper knock gauge, does that give the same kind of knock indication as the scanmaster?

what will happen if i put the stock chip back in with the bigger injectors?
 
You will flood the engine with fuel, big difference form 28's to 42's.
 
Lower the boost to 12 or 13psi. You then will lessen the chance of blowing a headgasket or worse. Then follow the information above.
 
You will flood the engine with fuel, big difference form 28's to 42's.
WHAT:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: it doesnt matter how much injector you are running as long as the chip is set up for the fuel. FIRST OF ALL HIS PROBLEM IS TRYING TO RUN 20 PSI ON PUMP GAS AND HAVING A STOCK SETUP.
 
Definitely do not go back to the stock chip as it is not matched to your bigger injectors.

The Casper knock guage should monitor the knock accurately so try to watch the guage and notice when it is knocking instead of waiting until you hear it. Audible detonation means it's getting serious.

If your car is a 100% transplant then you can follow the Turbotweak instructions and pull some timing if you want, it involves playing around with the climate control sliders, read the instructions that came with it.

Fuel pressure with a TurboTweak chip should be 42-43 at idle and should increase directly related to boost, so it almost sounds like you're getting enough pressure if it goes up to 50-60.

Depending on if you have more money to spend I would get the hotwire kit for the fuel pump and possibly and RJC Power Plate for under the intake plenum which will evenly distribute air to all 6 cylinders. With the shape of the stock intake plenum, when under boost the air rushes through the throttle body and slams into the back of the plenum and more air ends up going into the rear cylinders, leaning them out and causing detonation. The shape of the RJC plate helps to drastically even out the air flow to each cylinder.
 
Definitely do not go back to the stock chip as it is not matched to your bigger injectors.

The Casper knock guage should monitor the knock accurately so try to watch the guage and notice when it is knocking instead of waiting until you hear it. Audible detonation means it's getting serious.

If your car is a 100% transplant then you can follow the Turbotweak instructions and pull some timing if you want, it involves playing around with the climate control sliders, read the instructions that came with it.

Fuel pressure with a TurboTweak chip should be 42-43 at idle and should increase directly related to boost, so it almost sounds like you're getting enough pressure if it goes up to 50-60.

Depending on if you have more money to spend I would get the hotwire kit for the fuel pump and possibly and RJC Power Plate for under the intake plenum which will evenly distribute air to all 6 cylinders. With the shape of the stock intake plenum, when under boost the air rushes through the throttle body and slams into the back of the plenum and more air ends up going into the rear cylinders, leaning them out and causing detonation. The shape of the RJC plate helps to drastically even out the air flow to each cylinder.

what is an acceptable fuel pressure at 20 lbs boost?
 
Your pressure should rise 1psi for each psi of boost! So, if you set your pressure like Eric recommends at 43psi(line off), you should see 63psi at 20psi boost...I wasnt able to run 20psi on a "stock" setup without adding fuel in the chip and backing the timing down
 
20 psi on pump gas is too much. Back down your boost to 15 PSI and see where you are... if you are still knocking, back down some more.

And you NEED a scanmaster to see how much knock you are getting and also what your 02s are at WOT.

Is your fuel pressure at 43 PSI when you pull the vacuum line off? (at idle)
Make sure. Then make sure you put that vacuume line back ON.

If not, get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and get it up there.

Get a scantool... you need it for all kinds of reasons. Go put a post in the "parts wanted" section and get a 2.1 used or something... just get one.
 
how do I turn down the boost? it went up with the new chip, it was like 15psi before.


also, i have an Actron scan tool that (believe it or not....) tells most of the data (BLM, timing advance, coolant temp, rpm's integrator, a/f voltage, and a dozen or so others), i just don't know what it all means yet. it DOESNT show me LV8(whatever that is?) that i need to see to do the programming on the tweak chip. the monte is currently my daily, so i am just going easy on it for now.

i am at that "knows just enough to be dangerous" point right now, but at least i know it.

thanks for the info!!
 
how do I turn down the boost? it went up with the new chip, it was like 15psi before.


also, i have an Actron scan tool that (believe it or not....) tells most of the data (BLM, timing advance, coolant temp, rpm's integrator, a/f voltage, and a dozen or so others), i just don't know what it all means yet. it DOESNT show me LV8(whatever that is?) that i need to see to do the programming on the tweak chip. the monte is currently my daily, so i am just going easy on it for now.

i am at that "knows just enough to be dangerous" point right now, but at least i know it.

thanks for the info!!
do you have an adjustable wastegate on your turbo it will have threads on it it atatches from the downpipe to the turbo if you do turn it out "make it longer" i turn on fine thread is 1 pound of boost and course thread is 1.5 to 2 pounds. making the rod shorter will increase boost
 
its not adjustable, looks like i will have to make it that way!

again, thanks for all the info.
 
also, i have an Actron scan tool that (believe it or not....)

Might want to make sure that the Actron scanner doesnt put the car in diagnostic mode. When I run the Modis or OTC from my buddies shop I have to put it in Road Test mode.. Diagnostic screws with driveablility of the car(fueling, timing, etc, I believe)...
 
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