New guy question, but I did research

If your O2 sensor is always reading in the 450-550 area, then the sensor is probably bad (or there is a wiring problem to the sensor or ground).

I would start by changing the O2, then see what the readings are.

Eric
 
Eric he is getting some KR too.

The reason I said the listening part is you said you think the light is for over boosting because of the street glow gauge. We already told you what the light is for. It seems as if you don't believe what we are telling you. Maybe it is just the way you worded it made me misunderstand you.

Since the light isn't coming on don't get into boost. You will blow your HG. You need to ensure that your connection at the map sensor is still good. I believe it is a green wire that SHOULD be soldered to the wire coming out of the map sensor. If the connection isn't good the alky system isn't going to know when to come on. I don't remember if the light comes on during a test button push. I am certain you have a issue with the alky system. Julio can probably walk you through this in a few minutes. He goes by the screen name Razor on the board. He is very easy to deal with and can figure out these issues better than any of us.
 
The light next to the boost gauge is probably the low level light for the alky, but it could be anything. The power injection bulb is the spray bulb and the one on the gain knob is normal. Just my .02
 
I kind of doubt that. The low fluid light in the dash should be hooked up. Just lower the amount of alky in the tank to verify the light in the dash illuminates for low fluid.
 
Julio's install instructions say to put the red/green light next to the boost gauge. Most of the cars with his kit that I have seen have put that light in that general location. I haven't ever seen a light to warn of over boosting. I'm not saying there isn't one but if haven't ever seen one. Drain the alky tank and ensure the low level light is behind the low fuel lens. If it is then the light by the gauge is the red/green light that tells you when the alky is functioning correctly.
 
Julio's install instructions say to put the red/green light next to the boost gauge. Most of the cars with his kit that I have seen have put that light in that general location. I haven't ever seen a light to warn of over boosting. I'm not saying there isn't one but if haven't ever seen one. Drain the alky tank and ensure the low level light is behind the low fuel lens. If it is then the light by the gauge is the red/green light that tells you when the alky is functioning correctly.

His spray light is the "power injection" light that he showed a pic of. That's also common with stock dash cars and his is working properly.
 
Eric he is getting some KR too.

The reason I said the listening part is you said you think the light is for over boosting because of the street glow gauge. We already told you what the light is for. It seems as if you don't believe what we are telling you. Maybe it is just the way you worded it made me misunderstand you.

Since the light isn't coming on don't get into boost. You will blow your HG. You need to ensure that your connection at the map sensor is still good. I believe it is a green wire that SHOULD be soldered to the wire coming out of the map sensor. If the connection isn't good the alky system isn't going to know when to come on. I don't remember if the light comes on during a test button push. I am certain you have a issue with the alky system. Julio can probably walk you through this in a few minutes. He goes by the screen name Razor on the board. He is very easy to deal with and can figure out these issues better than any of us.

I completely understand it is was a misunderstanding between the two of us. No harm no foul!!

I just went out and picked up a new Autometer Sport-Comp Gauge so I can verify that these chincy street glow gauges are not accurate. I will also inspect where that LED on the A-pillar is wired to.

I also picked up a FP tool that I can run up and out from under the hood to verify my fuel pressure is increasing as boost increases 1:1.

What I found is that the only lights that are on are the "Red LED power light on the controller" when the ignition is on and or the car is running. If I hold the test button the "power injection" light goes on and the car stumbles. So I do know I am getting Alky into the motor. When I lay into the gas the "power injection" light also goes on as well. It does look like my Alky tank has lowered since I got the car, but I cannot be 100% certain. That light by the boost gauge never goes on which is what led me to believe at first that it was wired to the boost gauge. it was just a thought at the time

The light next to the boost gauge is probably the low level light for the alky, but it could be anything. The power injection bulb is the spray bulb and the one on the gain knob is normal. Just my .02

Julio's install instructions say to put the red/green light next to the boost gauge. Most of the cars with his kit that I have seen have put that light in that general location. I haven't ever seen a light to warn of over boosting. I'm not saying there isn't one but if haven't ever seen one. Drain the alky tank and ensure the low level light is behind the low fuel lens. If it is then the light by the gauge is the red/green light that tells you when the alky is functioning correctly.

His spray light is the "power injection" light that he showed a pic of. That's also common with stock dash cars and his is working properly.

This is why I am confused. I don't know what is wired where. LOL.
 
Just got off the phone with Julio. What an awesome dude. He stated that the power injection light on the dash is lighting to let me know that I am getting power to the pump and the pump "should" be pumping. To verify this, press the test button and if the car bogs you know you are spraying (This I have done an verified last night).

What he thinks is wrong is the LED on the A-pillar is either broken or not wired as someone else said.

So, I am going to rip apart the a-pillar check to make sure the bulb is wired right or wired at all. If it isn't then we know why it wasn't lighting.

With that said, he may think the low o2 readings may be based on a bad o2 sensor which I will replace today.. I will let you guys know.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
 
His spray light is the "power injection" light that he showed a pic of. That's also common with stock dash cars and his is working properly.


I have a factory dash and I installed my kit about two years ago. Like Julio told him the light for power injection just let's you know the system is on. The light by the boost gauge lets you know that the system is detecting boost and is turning on the system. The power injection light will come on when you press the test button but the red/green light lets you know that the system has detected boost. His system my not be detecting the boost and coming on.
 
now once you've checked it all out and depending on the age of the kit...there is a tiny box that I found had a solder broken ...Julio had me take it apart for inspection and what ya know. solderd it and the light in question was up and running. good luck with yours.
 
There may be more up-to-date instructions out there but this should help:
 

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I have a factory dash and I installed my kit about two years ago. Like Julio told him the light for power injection just let's you know the system is on. The light by the boost gauge lets you know that the system is detecting boost and is turning on the system. The power injection light will come on when you press the test button but the red/green light lets you know that the system has detected boost. His system my not be detecting the boost and coming on.

Exactly what is happening.

I found that the light was disconnected in the A-pillar, so I reconnected it and went for a spin.. It goes red, but doesn't go green. What Julio explained was it is a hard to find LED and should have Tan / Orange wires. Who ever put this LED in must have swapped it out with a single color. The wires on the LED are Black and red and spliced into Tan / orange. I cannot verify that its spraying at boost as I am not sure if the LED is the correct bulb.

There may be more up-to-date instructions out there but this should help:

Thanks Man.. In the paperwork I have I found the instructions, but I will go through this as well.
 
the changing led was a later upgrade to the system , early kits were just red LED

I read that in the instructions. I want to say it's a newer setup because the controller, map sensor and line running from it are all pretty clean and look new.

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You can hook up an air compressor and turn it down to 15psi to make the system think you are in boost. I would check the voltage going to the PAC controller from the green wire that is hooked up to the map sensor.
 
You can hook up an air compressor and turn it down to 15psi to make the system think you are in boost. I would check the voltage going to the PAC controller from the green wire that is hooked up to the map sensor.

Awesome..

I was going to start poking around with the Multimeter today.

Need to get this thing done today or at least verified.. Goes to the body shop tomorrow for paint!

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Well.. I want to thank everyone for their assistance. Got the Alky working and 02s up higher.
BUT

Made a quick pass at 14lbs and it felt and looked good. Spun the Boost controller up a bit and made another pass at 15lbs which felt great. Stopped the car and I hear knocking sounds from underneath the car in the area of the rear of the crank and flexplate / converter. My heart sunk. I thought for sure I spun a bearing on a fresh motor.

After searching I have found that this has happened in the past and specifically with Vigilante Converters. Bolts a bit too long?

Best way to fix this?

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Does the LED next to the boost gauge in the A pillar light up when you press the "test" button.......it should
 
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