New guy question, but I did research

[Superrmario]

Hey guys. So I did some research and came across a few things with my scanmaster.

WOT throttle at 16lbs of boost I was producing 450-550mv with 0-.7kr in third gear and I found this is bad. So after verifying my fuel pressure uncapped at 43psi and capped at 38-39psi I read that a custom tune is lost if the battery was disconnected or died. And in my experience it was dead when I went to pick up the car.

In turn, I bumped up setting 1 from 128 to 135 (5.6%) on BL and saved it. I haven't driven the car yet so I am not sure what this produced. The car runs Alky and I was told the Chip is an Alky Chip. Currently the Alky is set on 4 and the light is always on (Razor Kit) running denatured Alky. I test it before I drive just enough to make the car bog a bit and it is functioning.

Was this acceptable..

I'm new with tuning on these cars...

Thanks

 

[Superrmario]

Btw.. I am running 60lb injectors.

 

[groumoutis]

What do you mean by the light is always on? Is it always green even when you are not in boost?

 

[Superrmario]

What do you mean by the light is always on? Is it always green even when you are not in boost?

Yes, the red light but I found that is normal. Still don't know why my o2 is so low even after the increase.

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[we4Mateo]

Yes, the red light but I found that is normal. Still don't know why my o2 is so low even after the increase.

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No light should be on unless it's spraying unless you are referring to the light on the gain knob. If the green light is illuminated red prior to going into boost, there's a problem. Please clarify as there are three lights on an alky control kit; low level, spray, and the arm light on the gain controller.

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[750H.P.V6]

You need to verify your fuel pressure under load. If the fuel pressure doesn't go up 1 lb per pound of boost you need to address that first.

Neal

 

[Superrmario]

No light should be on unless it's spraying unless you are referring to the light on the gain knob. If the green light is illuminated red prior to going into boost, there's a problem. Please clarify as there are three lights on an alky control kit; low level, spray, and the arm light on the gain controller.

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The only LEDs that I can visually find that would light up is the red light which is always lite unless the car is off. What I did notice was the (power injection) light on the factory gauge console lights up as boost builds. I think buick played with Meth/alcohol in the past but never implemented it. What I think is someone in the past wired the power injection light to go on when it sprayed.

All the controller has on it is a test button, a knob with a blue cap that runs from 1-8 and a Red LED.

I will take a picture tonight to show you and upload it.

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[Superrmario]

You need to verify your fuel pressure under load. If the fuel pressure doesn't go up 1 lb per pound of boost you need to address that first.

Neal

Thx

I did read this as well. If the cap has vacuum, what reason would it not allow boost other than a cracked vacuum line which it doesn't have.

I'm. Just curious... Thx.

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[87geeinn]

1) The red light on the controller with the "Gain" knob is supposed to be illuminated. This just verifies power to the unit.
2) The red/green LED light should start to glow at around 5 to 7 psi boost...increase in intensity as boost climbs and then switch to green at ~12 psi boost. This can vary if the settings inside the controller are tweaking and/or the allen head screw on the pump head is turned. For now, if the LED light illuminates while you're going into boost and eventually goes green, then you should be good.
3) If the "Gain" knob is set to "4" then that seems pretty low. I'd venture to say most of us have it on the 6-7 mark depending on tune. Try turning it up to "8" and do a run and check for knock.
4) The "Power Injection" indicator should increase in intensity as boost climbs. This is part of the alky kit and merely an aesthetic thing. It has no bearing on the operation of the system itself.
5) Run straight up methanol...not denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, windshield washer fluid, etc.

I must also mention that one should test their alky system for leaks and proper operating pressure AT LEAST once a year. Contact Julio @ AlkyControl and ask him about his test kit.

 

[87geeinn]

Thx

I did read this as well. If the cap has vacuum, what reason would it not allow boost other than a cracked vacuum line which it doesn't have.

I'm. Just curious... Thx.

As stated before, you should test your fuel pressure under boost as fuel pressure should rise 1psi for every 1psi of boost. Anything less would indicate an issue with the fuel system (i.e., weak fuel pump, damaged fuel pressure regulator, clogged injectors, etc, etc.) or possibly an electrical issue. Is the fuel pump "hotwired," meaning a cable running from the alternator all the way back to the pump? I would almost assume this to be true since the prior owner went as far as installing an alky system.

 

[Superrmario]

You need to verify your fuel pressure under load. If the fuel pressure doesn't go up 1 lb per pound of boost you need to address that first.

Neal

Yes.. Tomorrow I am going to run out and get a FPG that I can long line to watch.

As stated before, you should test your fuel pressure under boost as fuel pressure should rise 1psi for every 1psi of boost. Anything less would indicate an issue with the fuel system (i.e., weak fuel pump, damaged fuel pressure regulator, clogged injectors, etc, etc.) or possibly an electrical issue. Is the fuel pump "hotwired," meaning a cable running from the alternator all the way back to the pump? I would almost assume this to be true since the prior owner went as far as installing an alky system.

Yes, I was told it was hotwired and has a new Walbro in it as well.

No light should be on unless it's spraying unless you are referring to the light on the gain knob. If the green light is illuminated red prior to going into boost, there's a problem. Please clarify as there are three lights on an alky control kit; low level, spray, and the arm light on the gain controller.

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There is only one light on the controller as per the picture below.

1) The red light on the controller with the "Gain" knob is supposed to be illuminated. This just verifies power to the unit.
2) The red/green LED light should start to glow at around 5 to 7 psi boost...increase in intensity as boost climbs and then switch to green at ~12 psi boost. This can vary if the settings inside the controller are tweaking and/or the allen head screw on the pump head is turned. For now, if the LED light illuminates while you're going into boost and eventually goes green, then you should be good.
3) If the "Gain" knob is set to "4" then that seems pretty low. I'd venture to say most of us have it on the 6-7 mark depending on tune. Try turning it up to "8" and do a run and check for knock.
4) The "Power Injection" indicator should increase in intensity as boost climbs. This is part of the alky kit and merely an aesthetic thing. It has no bearing on the operation of the system itself.
5) Run straight up methanol...not denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, windshield washer fluid, etc.

I must also mention that one should test their alky system for leaks and proper operating pressure AT LEAST once a year. Contact Julio @ AlkyControl and ask him about his test kit.

Yes, the red light is illuminated at all times. That red light never turns green even when my Boost Gauge reads 14lbs. If I press the test button, the only thing that goes green is the Power Injection on the dash.

So what I did was turn the knob all the way to 8 and pulled a rip with the same outcome. No green light on the controller (just red), low 450-550 o2 and this time no knock retard.
Please see below pictures?

I really appreciate everyone's help!!


This is the controller. No other LED's. That Red LED is suppose to turn Green at some point?

This picture is with my finger on the Test button @ idle. I was not in boost at the time.

 

[groumoutis]

Do you have a gauge pod on your A-pillar? That is the common place to put the light we are talking about. A lot of us have a boost gauge and the Alkycontrol light together so we can see both at a glance. It is usually in the line of sight while looking through the windshield. This light turns green when the system is operating as it should. You really need to find this light since it is there to let you know if the system is working. The one in the dash behind the power injection lens is a cool part but not the light we are talking about.

Do what has been posted. Confirm good fuel pressure and turn the alky knob to 6. That is where Julio puts them when he ships them out. It is better to have a little too much than not enough alky.

 

[Superrmario]

Yes I do. And I do have a led light next to the Boost Gauge but I think that is an over boost warning like. I say that because the gauges are cheap Street glow gauges.

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[87geeinn]

Yes I do. And I do have a led light next to the Boost Gauge but I think that is an over boost warning like. I say that because the gauges are cheap Street glow gauges.

Okay, maybe I wasn't clear enough. The red LED on the controller (the one with the "Gain" knob) will NOT change color...nor will the "Power Injection" light. Look at the attached pic. See the little LED light up by the boost gauge? THAT'S the LED light we are talking about. It should glow red when you hit the "TEST" button on the controller. Again, it should also glow red at ~7 psi boost...get brighter as boost rises...and then ultimately turn green. Do you have this LED?

 

[87geeinn]

Also, tuning by the narrow band oxygen sensor is a very crude method. To get a real picture of what is going on with your air/fuel mixure, start to consider a wideband set up. That said, o2 millivolts in the 500's would indicate a very lean condition, whereas you would want to see something in the neighborhood of ~800-900...roughly speaking.

Let's do this: Read everything about these cars and how they came in stock form. Once you have a good idea of what is stock vs. what has been altered on your car, list EVERYTHING in your signature. It will significantly help in eliminating things when trying to perform the art of internet troubleshooting.

 

[Superrmario]

Okay, maybe I wasn't clear enough. The red LED on the controller (the one with the "Gain" knob) will NOT change color...nor will the "Power Injection" light. Look at the attached pic. See the little LED light up by the boost gauge? THAT'S the LED light we are talking about. It should glow red when you hit the "TEST" button on the controller. Again, it should also glow red at ~7 psi boost...get brighter as boost rises...and then ultimately turn green. Do you have this LED?

You were clear. I do have an LED next to the boost gauge on the A-pillar. No, it doesn't light up. I assumed that light was attached to the boost gauge as a warning light.

Also, tuning by the narrow band oxygen sensor is a very crude method. To get a real picture of what is going on with your air/fuel mixure, start to consider a wideband set up. That said, o2 millivolts in the 500's would indicate a very lean condition, whereas you would want to see something in the neighborhood of ~800-900...roughly speaking.

Let's do this: Read everything about these cars and how they came in stock form. Once you have a good idea of what is stock vs. what has been altered on your car, list EVERYTHING in your signature. It will significantly help in eliminating things when trying to perform the art of internet troubleshooting.

I don't want to sound arrogant lol. But I have done a lot of reading over the years so I do know a bit about these cars and what they came with. Here is a list of my mods.

TE60 turbo
3" downpipe with dump tube
60# injectors
TT Custom Chip
Alky injection with new pump (Pump failed, motor rebuilt)
LS MAF sensor with translator
New Walbro fuel pump and fuel pump sending kit
Hot wire kit for fuel pump
Adjustable fuel regulator
New F-body radiator and electric fan set up on a thermal switch
Front mount intercooler
Adjustable air bags
Pinion snubber
Boxed adjustable rear contol arms
Level 10 trans with 9" Vigilante convertor
Aluminum Kenny Bell valve covers
Line lock
Scanmaster
Boost, Volts, Oil pressure, Water temp, EGT gauges, monster tach

 

[groumoutis]

OK let's try this again. The light next to the boost gauge should turn green once you are around 8 psi. Mine turns green at 8. It really depends on your map sensor and the accuracy of your boost gauge when you see yours come on.

If this light doesn't ever turn on or turn green you need to check the connection of the light. If the light is hooked up then you have an issue with the system. This light lets you know that the system is coming on and it doesn't light up then there is a problem.

There is a lot of knowledge on this board and most love to help. When people tell you what something is you should listen. There is a lot of us with the Alkycontrol system. Since the majority of installed the system ourselves we kinda know the in's and out's of the system.

 

[Superrmario]

OK let's try this again. The light next to the boost gauge should turn green once you are around 8 psi. Mine turns green at 8. It really depends on your map sensor and the accuracy of your boost gauge when you see yours come on.

If this light doesn't ever turn on or turn green you need to check the connection of the light. If the light is hooked up then you have an issue with the system. This light lets you know that the system is coming on and it doesn't light up then there is a problem.

There is a lot of knowledge on this board and most love to help. When people tell you what something is you should listen. There is a lot of us with the Alkycontrol system. Since the majority of installed the system ourselves we kinda know the in's and out's of the system.

I am confused....

I am not sure how I am not listening. I want help, I want more knowledge on this Alky system and how to tune with the scanmaster and TT chip. LOL.

I was happy to know that LED should be hooked up to the Alky system because now I know where to look. I though that light was there for the boost gauge a bunch of posts ago.

 

[Superrmario]

.......

 

[blackgn1]

Do a little studying on the operation of the Alky Control. You can't tune till you have a good understanding of how things work. These cars are a handful and one accident can cost you thousands. I am ready to help anyway I can.