new cam sensor installed CORRECTLY runs but not good

[liv4gnz]

so i was driving and the bolt came out holding in the old cam sensor from when the tensioner got caught in it anyway

got the new sensor in ow it starts but stumbles like crazy and barely revs up.

am i doing anything wrong

took out spark plug one driver side first put my finger in cranked it till it was on the compression stroke than put the mark on 0.
moved it 1.45 inches colckwise while facing the engine.

aligned the oil pump and dropped the sensor in so the wires face towards the headlight and i put the window directly centered with the mark on the housing.

now it starts but barely runs and stumbles and its definately not 180* out

idk what else to check maybe because the plugs are so fouled up now?

the firing order is right and it was running,

dont know what else to check

 

[turbojd]

You went 1.45" counterclockwise from top dead center right?

 

[liv4gnz]

well looking at the front of the engine standing from the bumper at zero i moved it clockwise

 

[turbojd]

It's gotta go counterclockwise 1.45" after your on the top dead center notch, this would put you at 25 degrees ATDC.

 

[JayC]

Sounds like youre 180 out on the compression stroke to me. They'll still run that way but they run like crap.

Big time GSCA "Buick Guru" had me chasing my ass doing chips for him for about 6 months for his personal vehicle only to find out later his cam sensor had been 180 out the whole time.

"Your chip runs like crap" after he fixes it. No ****, dude.. Ive been trying to compensate for your ignorance in the last 10 chips I sent you.

 

[gnxtc2]

Here I made a drawing for you

- Take a piece of masking tape and make two marks 1.45" apart.

- Go to the harmonic balancer and position one mark on the top dead center notch with the other mark positioned counterclockwise from the first. This corresponds to 25 degrees ATDC. Make a mark on the balancer at this point.

- Turn the crankshaft on clockwise until this mark lines up with the pointer. Note, it is important that the crank is on Top Dead Center and then 25 degrees past TDC. Remember that the cam turns at half the speed of the crankshaft and merely turning the crank until the point lines up with the pointer only assures you a 50% chance of being correctly on the 25 deg TDC mark. TDC is found when the notch on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer on the cover and both valves on cylinder # 1 are closed. In order to not have to pull the valve cover, I remove the spark plug and start turning the crank clockwise until I feel a puff of air come out the plug hole. This will be the compression stroke and I then continue turning the crank until I reach the 25 ATDC point. If you don't get this right, you will not like the way it runs as it will be spraying fuel 180 degs out of phase.

- Take the camshaft positioning sensor and turn the gear until the dot on the gear is aimed toward the passenger fender when the the wires on the cap are pointed toward the driver's side headlight.

- Install the sensor into its hole. It helps to lube the O-ring a bit so the sensor will slide into place. Note that as the sensor is inserted, the gear on the bottom will mesh with the gear on the cam and then the end of the sensor drive must line up with the end of the oil pump drive shaft. If the shaft and the sensor drive don't line up correctly, the sensor will not go all the way down. If you felt the two gears mesh, just bump the engine over while gently holding the sensor down. When the sensor turns enough to line up with the drive shaft, it will drop down into place.

- Install the hold down leaving the sensor just loose enough to rotate when you turn it with your hand.

- Using the Casper's cam sensor tool, plug it into the cam sensor harness.

- Turn the cam sensor clockwise until the LED on the tool goes out, then turn the sensor counterclockwise until the LED comes back on. I suggest turning the sensor about 1/8" to 1/4" further CCW from this point before tightening the hold down clamp. The LED should still be lit, however.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[pacecarta]

It's gotta go counterclockwise 1.45" after your on the top dead center notch, this would put you at 25 degrees ATDC.

clockwise (facing engine balancer ) 1.45" past 0 puts you in the correct position 25 atdc


now on his setup he states centered the window with the tab , that is incorrect

the furthest edge of the window looking clockwise should align 180 with the notch on the body for the cap

a cam sensor tool or a voltmeter would have been a better way to set the cap

 

[turbojd]

My bad, I meant to say the masking tape had to go counterclockwise from top dead center!!

 

[yullose]

In my opinion, the ONLY way to set a cam sensor is with the tool. Anything else is just dead-reckoning and guesswork.

http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf

 

[Chuck Leeper]

,,,,

 

[ELLISDALLASWE4]

IT is clockwise ..... are you using a Caspers Cap?..... casper's cap can go on 2 ways ..gm cap only goes on one way...

 

[JayC]

In my opinion, the ONLY way to set a cam sensor is with the tool. Anything else is just dead-reckoning and guesswork.

http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf

Back in my day, we used to have these things called voltmeters.

 

[WS6]

Back in my day, we used to have these things called voltmeters.

And I suppose you tell us next that you also walked to school 10 miles...uphill...both ways.

:biggrin:

 

[SIXBANGR]

Back in my day, we used to have these things called voltmeters.

amen to that. All I have ever used.

 

[DailyDrifter]

Back in my day, we used to have these things called voltmeters.

WTF is a voltmeter??? Is it like a sun-dial?

 

[viper04]

Yullose
Is that the casper cam tool?

 

[Heg87t]

Does it matter where the wires on the cap are after you set the voltage change by rotating the body? I have seen pictures with the wires about 4:00 and mine are about 8:00 from the front of the car.

 

[yullose]

Yullose
Is that the casper cam tool?

Yes...

And for the record... "Back in my day" we used carburetors, distributors, points & condensors. A Dwell meter was always in my toolbox... because setting the points with a pack of matches just wasn't very reliable.

I'm sure Grumpy will be along soon to tell us how he use to have to stand in front of his car and crank it by hand to get it started.

 

[ttypewe4jim]

carburetors, distributors, points & condensors.

Was that when they still used square wheels :biggrin:

 

[yullose]

Was that when they still used square wheels :biggrin:

They may as well have been square... I loved how those old bias ply tires would flat-spot if the car sat in the garage a few days.

I'll bet most on this board never heard of an "F78-15". (No it's not a fighter jet)