new 3" down pipe from gbodyparts wont fit

[bot]

has anyone put one of these pipes on there car that has atr headers?
the upper part of the pipe fits, but the lower part rest on the side of one of the headers tube and all so rests on the inside of the frame. I cant push the pipe away from the frame because one of the header tubes is pushing it towards the frame. I might just let the pipe rest on the side of the frame but , I'm not sure if this will cause problems? I have the hr motor mounts so the engine dosent move around

 

[Jerryl]

has anyone put one of these pipes on there car that has atr headers?
the upper part of the pipe fits, but the lower part rest on the side of one of the headers tube and all so rests on the inside of the frame. I cant push the pipe away from the frame because one of the header tubes is pushing it towards the frame. I might just let the pipe rest on the side of the frame but , I'm not sure if this will cause problems? I have the hr motor mounts so the engine dosent move around

The pipe can not touch the frame as it will cause false KR.
Post a pic so we can see what you are working with.

 

[bot]

pics

some pics, I think I might have to cut and weld

 

[novaderrik]

put a small dent in it where it hits the frame. nothing major- just a little dimple to clear. to keep it looking nice, wrap the area with tape, hold a ball peen hammer right where you need the djmple, and hit that hammer with another hammer a couple of times.
if you need more of a notch than a dimple, thenlay a 1" or so impact socket at the angle you need the notch and smack it a few times with a hammer.
this kind of stuff is normal for people that put headers on V8 powered cars- most headers even say right in the instructions that it may be necessary in some cars but not in others.

 

[bot]

how much clearance do I need by the frame and my header ? all so do you or anyone know if that slip joint will stay together by its self

 

[Boost231]

mine would hit in the same area as yours. i ran it like that with no knock at all. if you need to put a piece of rubber hose in that area and call it good.

 

[bot]

i'm going to have to dent the dp by my header tube , which will let the pipe turn in the slip joint and swing over and away from the frame a little more.

hope that slip joint stays together with out a clamp or tack weld













i

 

[Boost231]

i used a clamp on mine where it slips togther. still didnt seall all that well so i welded it togther

 

[boostmaster]

Fitment issues

Do all the banging and clanging all you want. What you really need is frame mounts. After all that banging and denting the pipe what your going to end up with is something that may not work as intended and something you can't return.
Then your gonna take a big hit trying to sell a used dented up downpipe. The reason the pipe won't fit is because the body is sitting down on the frame. New bushings will lift it back up.

 

[bot]

it seems like my problem is that the pipe is being held over by the header tube. I'm sure my body bushshing are worn, but its not hiting the body.
the tube coming off the turbo needs to be a little longer which would bring the other part of the dp away from the header pipe

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Do all the banging and clanging all you want. What you really need is frame mounts. After all that banging and denting the pipe what your going to end up with is something that may not work as intended and something you can't return.
Then your gonna take a big hit trying to sell a used dented up downpipe. The reason the pipe won't fit is because the body is sitting down on the frame. New bushings will lift it back up.

X2-Get some HRPartsnstuff motor mounts and a complete set of urathane body bushings from Summit and you are good to go. Your bushings are completly shot. Mine were. Should run you around $400 and it makes a world of difference. My 2 cents. Brad

 

[Jerryl]

.......I have the hr motor mounts so the engine dosent move around

mine would hit in the same area as yours. i ran it like that with no knock at all. if you need to put a piece of rubber hose in that area and call it good.

Wow. That is cool. Did not work for me though .....

........... The reason the pipe won't fit is because the body is sitting down on the frame. New bushings will lift it back up.

Pete,
I ran into the same problem, but the HR motor mounts took care of that.
Looks like the OP already has those ......

The body bushing will in fact raise the body, but in my limited experience it won't change the "DP to frame clearance". It WILL change the "hood to turbo" and "DP to AC line" clearance.

In fact, mine still hits the frame, but with CAREFULL assembly, I can get it to clear. At 0.0174"/degree/inch, it does not take much to move the DP away from the frame/headers.

IMHO, this is one of the HARDEST things on a HA.
A 2.5" DP would be much better, especially if the AC is still in place.
But if you don't get KR, who cares, as long as the frame does not rub through the DP.

PS;
Where have you been?

 

[Bweavy]

it seems like my problem is that the pipe is being held over by the header tube. I'm sure my body bushshing are worn, but its not hiting the body.
the tube coming off the turbo needs to be a little longer which would bring the other part of the dp away from the header pipe

Nice talking with you today. My suggestion guys was to drill the mounting holes one size larger. This would allow the pipe to clock 1*-2* clock wise if your looking at it from the passenger side. We just have to see if it will cause more or less interferance on the rear tube where it is hitting. If you can clock it 2* that should pull it off the header & further away from the frame.

On the heater box clearance we did improve the flange & the thickness. This is why it is closer to the box & the A/C line then the older units.

 

[bot]

i used a clamp on mine where it slips togther. still didnt seall all that well so i welded it togther

what type of clamp did you try on that slip joint and did you cut 2 parallel cuts in the pipe to allow the expanded part of the pipe to squeeze on the other pipe??

I might try a band clamp there and cut 2 notches so the expanded part will squeeze down on the other pipe

 

[Boost231]

i was using a band clamp

 

[boostmaster]

Down Pipe

Wow. That is cool. Did not work for me though .....


PS;
Where have you been?

I'm currently working in Iraq until March of next year. I'll be home for R&R in September and you can be sure I'm going staright to the race track.

You are partly right about the body bushings though, they won't stop the pipe from hitting the frame cause the engine is bolted to the frame and HR mounts actually raise the engine some. That's why body bushings balance out the equation by raising the body and therefore raising the ac box which the biggest clearence problem is between the AC box and the frame.

Nice talking with you today. My suggestion guys was to drill the mounting holes one size larger. This would allow the pipe to clock 1*-2* clock wise if your looking at it from the passenger side. We just have to see if it will cause more or less interferance on the rear tube where it is hitting. If you can clock it 2* that should pull it off the header & further away from the frame.

On the heater box clearance we did improve the flange & the thickness. This is why it is closer to the box & the A/C line then the older units.

This will work but you may have issues with the flange to exhaust being squared up.

 

[Jerryl]

I'm currently working in Iraq until March of next year. I'll be home for R&R in September and you can be sure I'm going staright to the race track.

You are partly right about the body bushings though, they won't stop the pipe from hitting the frame cause the engine is bolted to the frame and HR mounts actually raise the engine some. That's why body bushings balance out the equation by raising the body and therefore raising the ac box which the biggest clearence problem is between the AC box and the frame.


This will work but you may have issues with the flange to exhaust being squared up.

Agree 150% with your statements. :biggrin:
The body bushings and HR mounts will also resolve the heat shield clearance issues.

Every time you make a bend and weld, the total dimensional deviation increases, so tighter tollerances are needed.
Not much tollerance at all with a HA DP.
Still ........... THANKS BRIAN for all your HA support!!!

Pete ....
Be SAFE and check in more often ........